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Battery voltage
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<blockquote data-quote="*Jay*" data-source="post: 16426484" data-attributes="member: 108453"><p>I had the exact same issue with the stock alternator my Cobra came with, a stock unit I had rebuilt and with a supposedly new OEM unit from Rockauto. Upgrading the wiring (repairing actually) was one of the first things I did when I started having voltage issues with my Cobra, it was a mess to say the least but wasnt my only problem. The first 2 alternators started being affected by heat over the course of a few years, the new OEM from rockauto was affected by heat from the day I installed it. I installed a Mechman and havent had any heat issues since.</p><p></p><p>Now lets talk about the voltage readings. The voltage read at the battery will always be different than voltage being read somewhere else down the line. There is always going to be voltage loss through a wire, while the loss through a single length of wire is minimal it is cumulative. The more length in wiring, the more connection points, any loose connections, every crimp, bad repairs, any corrosion, any damaged wiring, environmental conditions and more all contribute to voltage losses. Keep in mind this applies to both Positive and Negative wiring. The negative path in a circuit back to the battery may not be as direct as the positive but it is still just as important. </p><p></p><p>This is why that small ground lead from the Negative terminal to the radiator cowl helped hotcobra03 and others, that was the weak point in the path back to ground that their ECU was using when reading their operating voltage. There are ground points all over the car and in theory they "should" read the same. Think about what the path of least resistance is when you go to read the voltage going to your tail lights and use a random bolt in the trunk for your negative meter lead. Thats why whenever someone starts having voltage issues the first thing I tell them is to look at all their wiring especially the grounds between various locations.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="*Jay*, post: 16426484, member: 108453"] I had the exact same issue with the stock alternator my Cobra came with, a stock unit I had rebuilt and with a supposedly new OEM unit from Rockauto. Upgrading the wiring (repairing actually) was one of the first things I did when I started having voltage issues with my Cobra, it was a mess to say the least but wasnt my only problem. The first 2 alternators started being affected by heat over the course of a few years, the new OEM from rockauto was affected by heat from the day I installed it. I installed a Mechman and havent had any heat issues since. Now lets talk about the voltage readings. The voltage read at the battery will always be different than voltage being read somewhere else down the line. There is always going to be voltage loss through a wire, while the loss through a single length of wire is minimal it is cumulative. The more length in wiring, the more connection points, any loose connections, every crimp, bad repairs, any corrosion, any damaged wiring, environmental conditions and more all contribute to voltage losses. Keep in mind this applies to both Positive and Negative wiring. The negative path in a circuit back to the battery may not be as direct as the positive but it is still just as important. This is why that small ground lead from the Negative terminal to the radiator cowl helped hotcobra03 and others, that was the weak point in the path back to ground that their ECU was using when reading their operating voltage. There are ground points all over the car and in theory they "should" read the same. Think about what the path of least resistance is when you go to read the voltage going to your tail lights and use a random bolt in the trunk for your negative meter lead. Thats why whenever someone starts having voltage issues the first thing I tell them is to look at all their wiring especially the grounds between various locations. [/QUOTE]
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