This is NOT compliant or legal per NHRA rules but will suffice for relocating the weight which is all I was after.
For those interested here's all the parts and how I did mine.
Summit battery box kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1231-K&N=700+115&autoview=sku
1/2" terminal stud from Wiringproducts.com:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html
Wiring terminal kit from Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-890093&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Summit brand convoluted tubing, I used 1/2" for the battery cables:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=SUM-890211&N=700+400304+115&autoview=sku
I mounted the box in the right rear of the bed:
Ran the cables through the bed floor and underneath. Drilled a hole and secured the negative cable to the frame:
Ran the positive cable forward along the inside frame rail routing it as best I could to prevent chafage. I used aircraft grade wireties along the rear portion and once it went up and over the frame utilized adel clamps to secure the remainder:
Once into the engine bay I used the bolt on lead post provided with the Summit battery box kit to mount the stock negative cable. I cut the stock terminal off the positive cable and replaced it with a terminal lug to use with the stud terminal and did the same for the incoming cable from the back:
The Summit terminal kit contains 1/2" ring terminals which I used to connect my amp power leads and Efan connections to the terminal stud as well so all the power wires go to the same place.
*NOTE* I had to remove the tabs on the top sides of the stock battery for it to fit down into the box, a hacksaw made quick and easy work of that task.
So far I've had no issues. With the engine running I see 14.5 volts at the terminals under the hood, at the battery itself I see 14.3 volts so there's only .2 voltage drop while charging. I can tell that there's a little less ooomph when starting with the battery moved back but that was expected and it hasn't proved detrimental.
YMMV :beer:
For those interested here's all the parts and how I did mine.
Summit battery box kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1231-K&N=700+115&autoview=sku
1/2" terminal stud from Wiringproducts.com:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html
Wiring terminal kit from Summit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-890093&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Summit brand convoluted tubing, I used 1/2" for the battery cables:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...part=SUM-890211&N=700+400304+115&autoview=sku
I mounted the box in the right rear of the bed:
Ran the cables through the bed floor and underneath. Drilled a hole and secured the negative cable to the frame:
Ran the positive cable forward along the inside frame rail routing it as best I could to prevent chafage. I used aircraft grade wireties along the rear portion and once it went up and over the frame utilized adel clamps to secure the remainder:
Once into the engine bay I used the bolt on lead post provided with the Summit battery box kit to mount the stock negative cable. I cut the stock terminal off the positive cable and replaced it with a terminal lug to use with the stud terminal and did the same for the incoming cable from the back:
The Summit terminal kit contains 1/2" ring terminals which I used to connect my amp power leads and Efan connections to the terminal stud as well so all the power wires go to the same place.
*NOTE* I had to remove the tabs on the top sides of the stock battery for it to fit down into the box, a hacksaw made quick and easy work of that task.
So far I've had no issues. With the engine running I see 14.5 volts at the terminals under the hood, at the battery itself I see 14.3 volts so there's only .2 voltage drop while charging. I can tell that there's a little less ooomph when starting with the battery moved back but that was expected and it hasn't proved detrimental.
YMMV :beer:
