Battery in trunk!!

Simple_GTO

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Any of you guys have a battery in the trunk? it a way to take 20pouds off you front end and gain traction with 20 pounds on the back!!
 

Poisonous Mods

little moddie
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friends car with skinnies & full on drag suspension. battery in the trunk

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my car with no drag suspension & stock rims. battery in the trunk.

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you will lose the 38lbs up front but the cables will add weight to the car. u can feel the weight transfer.
 

SGL

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Simple_GTO said:
Any of you guys have a battery in the trunk? it a way to take 20pouds off you front end and gain traction with 20 pounds on the back!!

make sure you use a solenoid so that the battery cable is not hot while the engine is running. visions of fire and smoke come to mind.....

You will have to use a cutoff switch also per NHRA rules.
 

yoshis99_cobra

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In your honest opinion, is it worth it for me to do right now? I'm just now starting to do my suspension cuz I need it real bad, or at least for my future mods.
 

SGL

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yoshis99_cobra said:
In your honest opinion, is it worth it for me to do right now? I'm just now starting to do my suspension cuz I need it real bad, or at least for my future mods.

No.
 

Poisonous Mods

little moddie
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it would only be worth it if you actually drag race. the relocation did pick up 1/10 of my ET.

you will notice the weight transfer of the line...it took me 3 runs to get used to how the car re-acts.
 

yoshis99_cobra

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But maybe after all said maybe I will. I plan on forging the internals and going with cams and then spray a big shot. So maybe I'll need it for then. Thanks guys!
 

smilinjack

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Q? I relocated my battery last year and am in the middle of a cable size change. Must I run both cables all the way or can I ground the Neg. side at both ends to the frame?? Thanks, Jack
 

SGL

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smilinjack said:
Q? I relocated my battery last year and am in the middle of a cable size change. Must I run both cables all the way or can I ground the Neg. side at both ends to the frame?? Thanks, Jack

My suggestion for the ground:

MIG weld a 3/8" nut to the body/frame at both ends of the car. Use a bolt to attach the cable. Stay away from those crapy jobs were people scrape the paint and use a loose nut and bolt. That is no good especially under the hood in a corrosive environment. This setup was recommended to me by an electrical engineer at GM.
 

BADASS03SVT

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serpentnoir said:
High amp breakers are not the right way to handle short situations. Use a solenoid mounted in the trunk. This way the positive is not hot when the engine is running.

where can we purchase a soleniod for this purpose? im going to run my cables this weekend i think
 

SGL

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BADASS03SVT said:
where can we purchase a soleniod for this purpose? im going to run my cables this weekend i think

just use an old Ford style solenoid. go to summit's site and type "solenoid". you will see what I mean.

send me your email and I will reply with a wiring diagram.
 

BADASS03SVT

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serpentnoir said:
just use an old Ford style solenoid. go to summit's site and type "solenoid". you will see what I mean.

send me your email and I will reply with a wiring diagram.

pm'ed...
 

hardcore35th

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I don have my car right now its at Dallas Mustang for full suspension, but Ill get some pics for you in a couple of days. If you want to reuse your tail light on the street without the rod, you need to run it through the reverse light lens. It will go though the hole on the back where the light plugs in , then you drill a hole in the front part to let it come through there. When you take the rod out put a piece of clear tape over the hole (or plug it with a cork from you favorite wine) an plug the bulb back in and your legal and rainproof again. :D
 

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