BAP wiring question

[EvilTwins]

OK so right now my BAP is wired post-FPDM, and from what I can tell on here no one recommends this. Can I change it to pre-FPDM without messing up my tune? I've had a hard time finding good information for why someone would install it one way or the other...

 

[EvilTwins]

No help at all??

Can someone find a wiring diagram for a post-FPDM installed BAP with a relay?

 

[EvilTwins]

OK so here's an update:

I have confirmed that the BAP w/ wiring upgrade are definitely wired correctly going by what everyone else has said on the forums. The BAP turns on like it should and the pumps and everything turn on just fine. The only problem I have is that the BAP (the BAP only, the pumps turn off) stays on when I turn off the key which is what has been causing my battery to drain over time). To get the BAP to turn off, I pop out the 30A BAP fuse and then I can hear the relay open, and plugging the fuse back in does not make the relay close again...

I am really stumped here, this is driving me insane!

 

[hotcobra03]

stupid answer maybe


i heard that 03/04 cobras battery will drain in 3-7 days of sitting...mine has never sat that long tell this winter..... after searching i found that battery problems are normal

 

[mblgjr]

i heard that 03/04 cobras battery will drain in 3-7 days of sitting...mine has never sat that long tell this winter..... after searching i found that battery problems are normal

There is NO logic behind this.

Granted; some cars may have had issues; but a lot of battery issues stem from a failing alternator or other non-factory amp draw.

My car has sat 2 weeks at a time throughout its life...NO battery issues...matter of fact; still has the stock battery and has never had a charger on it.

 

[EvilTwins]

Well Cobras might be worse than other cars for draining batteries, but that definitely isn't the issue here. My BAP is staying on for whatever reason... It's like the discharge of my BAP is somehow making it back to the FPDM to the wire that energizes the relay. The brown/pink wire from the FPDM connector that feeds the relay actually goes to like 14V (must be getting amplified through the BAP) when the ignition goes off, and that voltage actually changes with the setting of the knob for the BAP controller.. HELP ME

 

[IronTerp]

Sounds like you have some wiring issues here. The BAP should not be on all the time and draining the battery. Nor should it be wired post-FPDM. I'll let highoctane explain it to you:

The FPDM controls the pumps, wiring it pre-FPDM has the BAP supplying input power to the FPDM which allows the FPDM to control ouput, as it is designed to do, it just gives it more voltage to do so with. Wiring it post-FPDM has the output from the FPDM as the BAP's input and the BAP increases the voltage between the FPDM and the pumps. Now exactly why that doesn't work so well I'm not sure,maybe it is because the PCm is calling for a certain pump voltage, but that is being stepped up, and the PCM is constantly fighting the BAP? But I have seen first hand that it doesn't work as well as pre. The one time I tried post he fuel delivery seemed to be somewhat erratic, and the pumps could be heard constanlty running when the key was turned on. We went back to pre needless to say. I will say the duty cycle was slightly lower with it post though.

In a nut shell, wiring post-FPDM, basically allows the BAP to take control of the pumps which is not optimal. Wiring it pre-FPDM allows the FPDM to monitor pump output which is what it is designed to do and does a very good job of.

 

[EvilTwins]

Yeah I've read that is how a lot of people feel about installing the BAP, but the thing is other than the fact mine stays on all the time, it works great.

Will changing to pre-FPDM require a re-tune? the reason I ask is because my car has a very good tune on it from done by Shaun from AED, and I really don't want to do anything to mess it up. The car runs great, some people complain about hesitation when wired post-FPDM but I don't have any. I really don't mind using post-FPDM because I don't really like the idea of running all that voltage through the FPDM that it wasn't meant to handle, but I guess people don't really have much trouble?

Is it possible there is something wrong with my modified FPDM that could be causing this?

 

[EvilTwins]

Still no help? I still don't have this straightened out...

 

[Jaceracer]

Old post bui i'm in a similar postion where the supplemental instructions from kenne bell show it should be wired post and when i bought my car it was wired post. I can't find anyone to elaborate on this topic! My tuner tuned it without knowing it was post nor myself and when i found the wiring job to be shotty af i also had a melted wire i decided to look into it more and found this pre and post bs. I'm over here like wtf? Do i switch it to pre? will that mess with the tune? my tuner said to leave it like it is and fix the wiring thats messed up, so frustrating....

 

[01yellercobra]

Holy necro thread.

Fix the wiring. Leave it as it since that's how it's tuned.

Or throw in GT pumps and get rid of it all together.