Balancer install

Fang

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Did some searching and didn't find anything on this but do you have to pull the front end off to do this or can you get in there? Seems pretty tight.
 

SirShaun

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Move the coolant tanks out the way, remove the radiator cover/fan, use a piece of cardboard to protect your radiator fins.

If 10% or 15%, your aware of having to grind a nearby bracket in order to make the new balancer fit?

Also your going to need a new crank bolt from Ford, as the bolt your removing is a one time use torque to yield.
 

zporta

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Move the coolant tanks out the way, remove the radiator cover/fan, use a piece of cardboard to protect your radiator fins.

If 10% or 15%, your aware of having to grind a nearby bracket in order to make the new balancer fit?

Also your going to need a new crank bolt from Ford, as the bolt your removing is a one time use torque to yield.
Hit everything in one post!

Make sure you pull the bolt and washer out of the pulley before using the puller. Don't ask me how I know, nearly bent a pulley puller in half
 

Fang

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Move the coolant tanks out the way, remove the radiator cover/fan, use a piece of cardboard to protect your radiator fins.

If 10% or 15%, your aware of having to grind a nearby bracket in order to make the new balancer fit?

Also your going to need a new crank bolt from Ford, as the bolt your removing is a one time use torque to yield.

I was aware of the bracket. Can you get to it and do you have a pic? Thanks a load, appreciate the response.
 

Robert M

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Is it a bracket that needs to be clearance, or is it the timing tab on the front of the timing cover. If it is a bracket, what bracket needs to have material removed?


R
 

einehund

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It is just a mounting boss that is cast on the timing cover. Once you get the old balancer off, it will be plain what needs ground down. I believe that Innovators West sent color pics with the balancer, and I'm pretty sure you can get the install instructions from their website.
 

deepblue13

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I was able to use an angle grinder to remove the material needed from the boss. There was plenty of rooms after fan was out.


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Robert M

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Fang - Here is some of the information you are asking about...............

001_zpshe5nxqib.jpg

002_zpsfpry4pt5.jpg


A closer view so you can read it...........

008_zpsufvaye5a.jpg

010_zps0ybberpx.jpg


Also the bolt that came with the IW (Black) and a longer bolt of the same size (purchased separately) for installation...............

003_zpsg4ul2hha.jpg


I bought mine back in the day when Ford Racing was offering it as the 500CJ Cobra Jet balancer. It is the same as the I.W. 10%, but with the FRPP engraving.

004_zps25csazl0.jpg







R
 

99VERT

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Just installed my 10% lower this weekend! Not to hard. Like others said just grind down the areas for clearance and reinstall. I bought the ARP bolt from Lethal Performance and torqued to 90 Ftlbs with a dab of red loctight.
 

Fang

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Just installed my 10% lower this weekend! Not to hard. Like others said just grind down the areas for clearance and reinstall. I bought the ARP bolt from Lethal Performance and torqued to 90 Ftlbs with a dab of red loctight.

Still need to wait for injectors and boost a pump. Money money…


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Fang

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Ok ready to get this thing in. Did I read somewhere that the crankshaft bolt is backwards threaded? I don't think so as the bolt I got from Lethal is not.
 

RedVenom48

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Remember, its torque to yield. You need a new one from ford or grab and ARP bolt that is reusable.
 

merkyworks

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If you havent bought the ARP bolt yet get ahold of Kinetik Motorsports and get one of their studs seems much better than a bolt.

https://www.facebook.com/kinetikms/

I have been to Kinetik and seen there stud setup first hand and it's much better than any bolt. They puts some great engineering into this stud and how it secures the balancer to the crank.
 

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