Auto or manual?

brigs

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
May 28, 2019
Messages
179
Location
US
Haha ↓ I went through the auto vs. manual decision when buying my current car. There are good arguments both ways here, but for me it came down to just wanting a full manual for the fun and feel. I'm turbo and don't track the car - I use it occasionally to cruise around and get some adrenaline. So, to me the quicker times of an auto wasn't worth the trade off. Seems to me your decision will not so much be track times but more enjoyment...what do you see yourself enjoying more? I agree with the below that for your street use, that big of a turbo might not be necessary or even advantageous, although with the right setup the 82/85 would work.


82/85 unless you're running a hot tune and staging it will be no fun on the street. You'll be there making a sandwich while you get gapped by a neon.
 

badcobra

It's Fast
Established Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2004
Messages
2,515
Location
Mpls/St Paul, MN
So guys I am debating on going auto or not? I am building a higher c/r 10:5 corba with custom cams to spin 7.5 rpm. I will run a 82/85 mm precision with a 1.24 ar. I will drive it 90% on street and a few times down the 1/8th mile track. So should I do a t56 mag or go with a 4r?
Do you or plan to hit up Mexico late on weekend nights?
 

termcobra281

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
871
Location
wv
Yup its for the enjoyment for sure. I will hit up some mexico for sure also. I have 2 turbos at the time one is the 76/75 precision and the other is of course the 82/85 pte. I could use either turbo and sell the other. Id just like a fun driving monster of a street car.... Id like to hit my 1/8th track just for the fun of it but also the ability to run a nice time...
 

GNBRETT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Beer Money Bros.
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
4,548
Location
Middle Earth
Tuning knowledge his advanced no doubt and the ability for these 4 bangers to run obscene amounts of boost is part of it too and of course the fuel systems can handle far more power. All true but the Turbo technology itself has come leaps and bounds in efficiency. Small Turbo's are making a LOT of power these days and they dont take much to spool up at all.

Turbo lag is kind of an old wives tale these days..... and im not referring to a manual im referring to an Auto. I would never run a stick with a Turbo.

Garretts new 35mm Turbo is making what the 42mm was making last year. Same size wheel, same size inducer same everything just makes boat loads more power cause the wheel design is more efficient. That a a LOT of improved Tech.

Moreless the knowledge of tuning has advanced. Also talking about streetability as what the op main obj. Also talking about reving a 4 cylinder to 85-9200 rpms. Live zone its 55-6500 or so with a manual trans. Turbo tech hasn't improved much. All the same old tech that is finally being brought up because of cost back in the day. Old racer tech is what you're seeing now.

Like roller bearing in engines/ mains and cam shafts. They had that stuff in the 30-40-50s but was to expensive.
 

GNBRETT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Beer Money Bros.
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
4,548
Location
Middle Earth
With the auto and a proper converter I dont see any issue at all spinning that Turbo. Its just not that big. I got an 85mm and it spools too dam fast sometimes. Granted its a Coyote but it spools so fast Im going to an 88mm so that 82mm with that tiny exhaust wheel will be fine with the right stall. U will need a good boost controller tho and 2-step on the line to build boost.

6r80 is what I would swap it to but with converter and upgraded billet parts that aint gonna be cheap.

So with everything in debate what is your take on it? With the 82/85mm precision
 

termcobra281

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
871
Location
wv
Good deal ... That pretty much settles it up. I feel everyone pretty much agrees on one thing and thats going auto.
 

stangfreak

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2003
Messages
8,313
Location
new york
why is everyone saying you cant manually shift a 6R? lokar makes shifters. personally, I would go with a 6R all day over a 4R. all my friends ran 4Rs. The 6R IMO wll be faster.
 

03 Cobra DSG

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2017
Messages
524
Location
FL
Power by the hour sells the Lokar shifter, the 6R80 is a very easy swap especially if you don’t have long tubes in the way. You can look up the thread 04 cobra 6R80 swap we have updated the parts list. You can pm me if you need any specifics on the swap.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

termcobra281

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
871
Location
wv
Since I have different ways to go I am gonna see what sells first as far as turbos, if the 76/75 sells first I will go auto, if the 82/85 sells first I will stay 6 speed manual.... I have drove the car with the 76/75 and it hits boost around 3,000 rpm with a remote tune so I wont mind the 76/75 with more engines c/r. Either way I have a plan around either.....
 

4sdvenom

Never Enough!
Established Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
2,439
Location
Ft. Wayne, IN
why is everyone saying you cant manually shift a 6R? lokar makes shifters. personally, I would go with a 6R all day over a 4R. all my friends ran 4Rs. The 6R IMO wll be faster.
Nobody is saying that except me, only because I didn’t realize anyone had a manual shifter for the 6r that lets you shift through all the gears! Thats all!
That was the only thing keeping me from going to a 6r at the time I started looking into them. I’ve had a 4r since 2004 and have loved it!
For me personally the shifter needs to be a ratchet shifter. I’ve been using a B&M Pro ratchet with my Shifterplates that I designed also since 2004.

Ken
 

termcobra281

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Messages
871
Location
wv
Whatever you do, don't listen to someone saying turbo tech is the same and that a single won't spool/a stall won't be happy.
I agree I have research alot and realize what ya are saying. I think from what I gather it depends on your set up. Gears, tranny, tune, rpm, 2 step, anti lag..... So on
 

01blckcobra

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
314
Location
Wisconsin
Tuning knowledge his advanced no doubt and the ability for these 4 bangers to run obscene amounts of boost is part of it too and of course the fuel systems can handle far more power. All true but the Turbo technology itself has come leaps and bounds in efficiency. Small Turbo's are making a LOT of power these days and they dont take much to spool up at all.

Turbo lag is kind of an old wives tale these days..... and im not referring to a manual im referring to an Auto. I would never run a stick with a Turbo.

Garretts new 35mm Turbo is making what the 42mm was making last year. Same size wheel, same size inducer same everything just makes boat loads more power cause the wheel design is more efficient. That a a LOT of improved Tech.

Agree to disagree. I haven't seen a big improvement over the years. Still rockin my old cast tech 76 that puts out tad more than the "new" tech so far. Also $2500+ cheaper. Only improvement would be an extra 200 rpm spool maybe.. Key would be proper sizing for application.
Extra $3,000+ for upgrade for maybe 100-125hp don't sit well with me. Plus then changing components to match.

I street drive more than I track, if I could do it over, correct sized twins would be the way to go for the street.
 

GNBRETT

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Premium Member
Beer Money Bros.
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
4,548
Location
Middle Earth
Fair enough..... shit when I have my Turbo Hayabusa it had a GT40 on it. Made 430 whp on 93 pump w/liquid IC. Put a GTX40r on it and it made 50 less hp at the same boost level smh. If I turned it up it would have made 650+ hp on C16. It was climbing rapidly at 550 hp but lost signal to dyno. I ended up just leaving it at 550.

Bottom line is it just wasn't happy at lower boost. I spent so much money adapting that Turbo to fit u wouldn't believe! All to LOSE hp so yea proper sizing is critical I agree.

But that 82mm is pretty small actually and the exhaust wheel is really small so I dont see any issue with him spooling that Turbo up with the right converter.

Agree to disagree. I haven't seen a big improvement over the years. Still rockin my old cast tech 76 that puts out tad more than the "new" tech so far. Also $2500+ cheaper. Only improvement would be an extra 200 rpm spool maybe.. Key would be proper sizing for application.
Extra $3,000+ for upgrade for maybe 100-125hp don't sit well with me. Plus then changing components to match.

I street drive more than I track, if I could do it over, correct sized twins would be the way to go for the street.
 

01blckcobra

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
314
Location
Wisconsin
Fair enough..... shit when I have my Turbo Hayabusa it had a GT40 on it. Made 430 whp on 93 pump w/liquid IC. Put a GTX40r on it and it made 50 less hp at the same boost level smh. If I turned it up it would have made 650+ hp on C16. It was climbing rapidly at 550 hp but lost signal to dyno. I ended up just leaving it at 550.

Bottom line is it just wasn't happy at lower boost. I spent so much money adapting that Turbo to fit u wouldn't believe! All to LOSE hp so yea proper sizing is critical I agree.

But that 82mm is pretty small actually and the exhaust wheel is really small so I dont see any issue with him spooling that Turbo up with the right converter.

Damn, sounds like a nice busa.
But yes, sizing is what i was trying to get at. Yes, that wheel is small but the housing is bigger. Takes more volume to fill to start spinning. .96 vs 1.28. will be quite noticeable lag. but yet yield more power, less back pressure.
 

Nightmare302

OhChuteRacing Owner
Established Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2004
Messages
1,824
Location
Lawrence Kansas
Twins are smaller but use half the exhaust pulse to spin the turbine. Intertia is a factor on the larger wheel singles but the impact would be significantly less than using an outdated cast wheel compared to the new tech billets.

If you attempt to justify that your old cast 76 isn't that much worse than a brand new 76 (which I've seen new 76's make 1300rwhp compared to the 800-900 your old cast unit would hit) then I don't know how you can argue that the 500rpm difference of a single setup is worth discussing at all.
 

01blckcobra

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
314
Location
Wisconsin
Twins are smaller but use half the exhaust pulse to spin the turbine. Intertia is a factor on the larger wheel singles but the impact would be significantly less than using an outdated cast wheel compared to the new tech billets.

If you attempt to justify that your old cast 76 isn't that much worse than a brand new 76 (which I've seen new 76's make 1300rwhp compared to the 800-900 your old cast unit would hit) then I don't know how you can argue that the 500rpm difference of a single setup is worth discussing at all.

Which 76 you want to compare? only like a dozen of them. 76/75 is a downgrade for me. Bought installed, tested, removed. Housing swaps, ect. Not spending $3,000+ extra. Plus the cost of converter change and refab. Other ways to spend the money wisely. There's more to it than just a simple turbo swap. Ever drive a 88mm with a 1.40 housing connected to a 281ci on the street? I mean crap make 1400hp on the dyno - should be good for the street right?
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top