Attention all brake doctors; need advice/help

jmimac351

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Originally posted by 03SVTCOBRA10TH
ttt

Chief, in my opinion you don't need them. Just go to a hose place and get 3" ID hose that can withstand some heat. Go to home depot and buy HEAVY duty cable ties. Get them in the plumbing dept. Remove the heat shields on the front spindle.

Tip: get a pair of snips. Rock the sheild back and forth and it will crease to the point where the metal will actually tear. Use the snips to trim it up. Trying to drill out the rivets is a nightmare. This other way is clean and MUCH easier.

The ducts will attach to the inlet on the fascia. Get some metal tape to help tap the ducts to the fascia. Add a worm gear clamp as well. The duct on the facia is tapered so it is hard to slide the hose all the way up.

Check clearance/range of motion for the hose with the spindle as you turn the wheel to full lock in both directions. Cut to length and zip tie to the tie rod. There are two plastic panels you will need to remove as well. They are just splash gaurds and just pop right off.

This sort of setup is cheap and WILL cool your brakes.
 
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SnakeBit

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Originally posted by NJStangFan
:shrug:

Anyone else use this?

https://www.speedbleeder.com/
I had them on my 98. They worked very well. I made the following writeup for flushing my brake fluid (which I do once a year now).
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I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can. Fill it with water and dump it into the jar. Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well.).

Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system, and carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.

Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then put another can on.

Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.
 

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