My 04 F150 5.4 3v has had motorcraft syn blend and a motorcraft filter. in it for 186k miles. This is now just a back up truck, as I bought a 11 Sierra. Anyways. I swapped to Mobil 1 synthetic. 5w30 vs the syn blend 5w20. I am hearing on certain mornings a tad of a barring noise. It does not have me worried, as it holds 3/4 of the gauge. I just changed the oil and now I a hair above 3/4. Should I worry about swapping it out now? I am not looking for performance, merly to quiet the motor down, which it did. Do you think I will start burning oil? I had a 56k mile 90 5.0 GT back in the day and I went from havoline to mobil 1 and it used a quart. How do these new mod motors react to oil swapping?
At this point should I worry? Changed oils
- Thread starter Boomer182
- Start date
Odd, yet another consumer who switched to Mobil 1 and noticed oil consumption.
*Place a sarcastic tone on the word "Odd"*
You are in Texas. If you want an off the shelf formulation that will quiet your engine, and possibly reduce consumption over your current 5W-30 fill of Mobil 1, use Mobil 1 10W-30 Extended Performance next time. When you do, please report back if your noise issue has been reduced.
*Place a sarcastic tone on the word "Odd"*
You are in Texas. If you want an off the shelf formulation that will quiet your engine, and possibly reduce consumption over your current 5W-30 fill of Mobil 1, use Mobil 1 10W-30 Extended Performance next time. When you do, please report back if your noise issue has been reduced.
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01cobravortech
Banned
These youngins never learn Beast. Should quit playing with the oils and go with the best = Amsoil.
you'll always burn more than normal when switching type of oil... if you went from their blend to their synthetic/hydrocracked formula expect some to disappear for a change or two due to the different bonding properties and the old formula being worked out.
that being said, i agree with the above... mobil 1 (from what i've seen) tends to use group III/hydrocracked dino oil for base stock with some group IV/pao in it. so it won't have the seal conditioning characteristics of ester synthetic, or quite the properties or regular dino oil.
that being said, i agree with the above... mobil 1 (from what i've seen) tends to use group III/hydrocracked dino oil for base stock with some group IV/pao in it. so it won't have the seal conditioning characteristics of ester synthetic, or quite the properties or regular dino oil.
I was told not to run 10w30 in a mod motor on here because it was not designed to run it. :shrug:
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink.
I would love to hear your story. Please be specific to actual formulation you used, the car it was used in, the oil filter used, and the reason why you feel it's a terrible lubricant.
I would never use anything other than Amsoil Signature Series in any car I own, unless I had to.
It's all climate based and a sacrifice that could be made in very warm/hot climates that have mild winters. True synthetic 10W-30 formulations (like Amsoil ATM 10W-30) will have lower evaporation/burn off than your traditional off the shelf 5W-30 lubricants. This means.....
If you do not have winters where you are driving your car in sub 32*F weather daily....starting the engine multiple times a day, a 5W or 0W 30 grade lubricant isn't required. You make the sacrifice to use a 10W-30 that will have better shear stability and lower evaporation/burn off (NOACK).
Amsoil ATM 10W-30 has less than 6% NOACK and good luck trying to shear it down. I used it in my GT500 for thousands of miles, and it has returned the best overall results known on any GT500 forum. These are not "hype" claims, it's the proven truth.
GT500 UOA thread
*Mobil 1 lubricants have NOACK percentages that range from 9-13%.*
I will add that I have never seen a 0W-30 more shear stable than Amsoil AZO 0W-30. It impressed me from a 5,000 mile oil sample sent to me from a 2003 yellow Terminator. ;-)
What's really going to hurt some of the people's feelings who say that 10W-30 is obsolete and has no purpose.......Amsoil ATM 10W-30 flows about the same in cold weather down to 32*F as Mobil 1 5W-30.
Why 10W-30?
You can't trust SAE numbers printed on the outside of an oil bottle. They can be very misleading. Example: It's natural for consumers to think that a 5W-50 formulation would have better cold flow properties than a 10W-40, but that's not true. Amsoil AMO 10W-40 has far better cold flow properties than Motorcraft 5W-50. It actually specs like a 20W-50 until it shears the first 2,000 miles.
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Like I said, I am not turning this into a thread bash. Ill be more then happy to PM you the story. If it is ok to run 10w30 I will run it the next time around. The only reason I run a motorcraft filter is because It has always had one on it.
Please PM me. We can discuss it in private.
Nothing wrong using a bang for the buck filter like Motorcraft.
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