Anyone using Snow performance meth injection?

Dinosgt

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Folks:

I have been trying to find unique ways to get the performance we paid for out of the GT500. As we all know, heat soak is the enemy. All the power adders wont help me if the ECU is pulling timing due to high IAT2s, and after a few minutes in traffic or sitting at idle we can see IAT2s that pull lots of timing, killing power.

I am a bit reluctant to go the aftermarket heat exchanger route, because I dont want to tear into the front end, dont like the fans running, and think the 13-14 heat exchanger is probably a pretty good piece (with airflow of course). Not knocking anyone who has one - its a great decision - I'm just not ready to go there.

The killer chiller is neat, but similarly, I dont want to hack into lines and am not sure how I feel about the compressor running all the time. Again - not knocking it - the numbers I have seen indicate that it works - I'm just looking for something simpler for now.

The meth kits seem promising, but I saw a thread here which seemed to indicate a guy in Qatar wasn't seeing much benefit from his kit. The thread was circa 2014, so I was wondering if anyone is using the updated kits offered by Snow, and if they have any real world data (not sure dyno data is entirely convincing because its a very controlled environment, temp wise).

Finally - I don't want to tune for it - I just want to get the lower IAT2s so the ECU will give me all the power I paid for.

Any thoughts or experience out there?

Thanks as always. :beer:
 

Willie

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Forget about Snow. There is much more information you need than what they supply. Read this:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/meth-water-inject-50-50-questions.1127518/

The killer chiller is neat, but similarly, I dont want to hack into lines and am not sure how I feel about the compressor running all the time. Again - not knocking it - the numbers I have seen indicate that it works - I'm just looking for something simpler for now.:

You don't hack into any of the AC lines. Their kit includes tees for the refrigerant lines. The only lines you "hack" are the 3/4-inch heater hoses. You do not need to run the AC all the time. I installed my KC intercooler lines in parallel with the HE and the fluid path can be switched from one to the other by the flip of a switch. I only used the KC when at the drag strip.
BTW, I have the KC for sale in the classifieds under "Lookie". I am forced to sell my car and returned it to stock. It does work very well.
 

Dinosgt

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Forget about Snow. There is much more information you need than what they supply. Read this:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/meth-water-inject-50-50-questions.1127518/

You don't hack into any of the AC lines. Their kit includes tees for the refrigerant lines. The only lines you "hack" are the 3/4-inch heater hoses. You do not need to run the AC all the time. I installed my KC intercooler lines in parallel with the HE and the fluid path can be switched from one to the other by the flip of a switch. I only used the KC when at the drag strip.
BTW, I have the KC for sale in the classifieds under "Lookie". I am forced to sell my car and returned it to stock. It does work very well.


Thanks for the feedback Willie - an interesting statement you made in that thread you referred me to was:

"Just a few facts: 1) Spraying before the blower results in ZERO temperature reduction after the blower, and 2) Spraying after the intercooler yields the best (lowest) IAT2 temps."​

Bummer - This is what I had suspected given that most of the heat comes from the rotors compressing the mix - So for the GT500, that means only spraying from under the intake manifold? No pre TB like I have seen in these kits? If so, I wonder how they reach their claims of lower IAT2s?
 

Willie

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Thanks for the feedback Willie - an interesting statement you made in that thread you referred me to was:

"Just a few facts: 1) Spraying before the blower results in ZERO temperature reduction after the blower, and 2) Spraying after the intercooler yields the best (lowest) IAT2 temps."​

Bummer - This is what I had suspected given that most of the heat comes from the rotors compressing the mix - So for the GT500, that means only spraying from under the intake manifold? No pre TB like I have seen in these kits? If so, I wonder how they reach their claims of lower IAT2s?

As I stated in that thread, I installed multiple digital air temperature gauges. The first was on the elbow, just after the methanol nozzle. Comparing this temperature with IAT1 told me how much the methanol cooled the aircharge. As you know, the IAT1 is close to ambient, as long as there is no heat soak. Let's use numbers here so I can illustrate my example better. Let's say IAT1 is 90 degrees, which is what my gauge would show. Then as the methanol is sprayed, I could watch the gauge drop. Basically, it would drop linearly and continue to drop as long as the methanol was being sprayed. At the end of a 1/4-mile pass, it would be down to 65 to 70 degrees. So all is well, right? Not exactly.... This is the air temp going into the compressor. My second air gauge, located at the base of the blower (pre-intercooler) would read around 200 degrees, give or take. Now if I were NOT to use the methanol, this pre-intercooler air temp is basically the same, so the 25 degree drop pre-blower is completely negated by the blower compressing the air. IAT2's are unaffected. Snow's "claim" is not what I see in real life, so if you decide to go with their system, most, if not all of us, don't see a difference in IAT2's and eventually trash the idea, thinking it was a waste of money....

On a centrifugal blower, such as Vortech or ProCharger, the methanol is sprayed after the blower and is very effective in lower air temps. Not so with a screw-type like ours. So I then tried experimenting with nozzles after the intercooler. This is where I DO SEE a temperature drop in IAT2's.

I know this is long so I'll stop here... There's lots more, including tuning, or the inability to find a tuner that will work with this stuff...... but trust me, if you are a die-hard methanol fan like myself, I can say there is a way.....

Willie
 

Beercules

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Is the iat2 on the n-gauge before or after the blower?

I spray in the tube and watch the iat2 drop.

It also gives a bit more boost by sealing off the tolerances in the rotors.
 

C0bra99

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Is the iat2 on the n-gauge before or after the blower?

I spray in the tube and watch the iat2 drop.

It also gives a bit more boost by sealing off the tolerances in the rotors.
There is two iat and iat2 one is before and the other is after.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 

Dinosgt

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. Snow's "claim" is not what I see in real life, so if you decide to go with their system, most, if not all of us, don't see a difference in IAT2's and eventually trash the idea, thinking it was a waste of money.....

I know this is long so I'll stop here... There's lots more, including tuning, or the inability to find a tuner that will work with this stuff...... but trust me, if you are a die-hard methanol fan like myself, I can say there is a way.....

Willie

Many thanks Willie - this is what I was looking for - reference to DATA. Now back to the drawing board...
 

Willie

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Many thanks Willie - this is what I was looking for - reference to DATA. Now back to the drawing board...

Dino, don't give up on methanol just because of this. Over the years, I have developed a system that works extremely well. I will send you a PM.
 

Dinosgt

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Thanks willie - haven't received anything yet. Give it another shot...
 

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