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Anyone running twin precision 6466
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<blockquote data-quote="tt335ci03cobra" data-source="post: 16370292" data-attributes="member: 68944"><p>Thanks for the compliments, I am fortunate to know a great local builder who can handle the hassles and intricate stuff/time/and pressing on when it gets complicated. Adapt this, relocate that, set this, adjust that etc.</p><p></p><p>Great pick on the stand alone, I feel it’s one of the best. You have the right idea to get a proper cam/valves/springs etc in to optimize airflow where the turbos want it. </p><p></p><p>You have all the intake volume you’ll need, I’d honestly say go smaller on the turbo unless you are in a competitive racing series or environment where you need 1400whp. </p><p></p><p>Your intake manifold setup will carry air well to 8000rpm and the aggressive turbo cam will help make power there. A fresh set of 60/62’s on a t4 housing, 30-35psi, and a full custom 3” hotside should move plenty of air. 1200whp is easily doable, I’ve seen 1070whp on a terminator 4.6 on 27psi through stage 1-2 c heads and 61’s through a t56 and stock sct tuned ecu 7000rpm setup. You’d have more manifold, and more rpm than he had. He also had a milder cam, something like a stage 1 turbo cam.</p><p></p><p>1000rpm matters if you have a Sullivan and stage 3 cam.</p><p></p><p>Obviously stage is a bullshit term, the important thing to do is specify what you’re doing with the car, prioritize the most prevalent function of the car, and steer the cam profile, turbo size, and project that direction.</p><p></p><p>Example, I’m now stepping to smaller turbos because in 5,000 miles, I’ve ran 11psi or higher all of 3-5 hours worth and maybe 25-100 miles. I street drive it. My pump gas setup is really good, I just want a bit more low end bite. </p><p></p><p>In a properly setup 3500lbs car on a drag pack (slicks/skinnies), 800whp is 150mph trap speed and 1.25-1.5 60ft motivation depending suspension etc. </p><p></p><p>The honest truth is even on 1070whp and 20psi, I have to be in 3rd around 70mph to do a mostly wot pull. 4th over 100 it’ll hook every time. </p><p></p><p>1200-1400whp is entirely a back half as in after the 8th mile number. It’ll take you from trapping 150 to trapping 175-190 if it’s setup well and handles heat well, but otherwise it’ll just blow tires and parts.</p><p></p><p>Personally, I want to get my pump gas tune running 8.9-9.5 @150+ with the irs/t56 reliably before calibrating for higher boost setups again. I figure learning what it needs to run there will then allow me to just use boost by gear after to add what power we can on e85 or racegas for crazier trap speeds and slightly quicker et’s. 60’ is where I’ll lag, tops I bet we can find is a 1.39-1.45, but we will probably be consistently in the 1.5’s which is a bottle neck for et’s.</p><p></p><p>That all said, mines a street car 99% of its life, so I’m totally fine. I’d much rather have it optimized for the street and hooking well there, keep my mostly handling suspension, 13 or 14” brakes etc. For a drag build, I’d go 67’s, 9000rpm, sra, gut it, and punch for 7’s.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tt335ci03cobra, post: 16370292, member: 68944"] Thanks for the compliments, I am fortunate to know a great local builder who can handle the hassles and intricate stuff/time/and pressing on when it gets complicated. Adapt this, relocate that, set this, adjust that etc. Great pick on the stand alone, I feel it’s one of the best. You have the right idea to get a proper cam/valves/springs etc in to optimize airflow where the turbos want it. You have all the intake volume you’ll need, I’d honestly say go smaller on the turbo unless you are in a competitive racing series or environment where you need 1400whp. Your intake manifold setup will carry air well to 8000rpm and the aggressive turbo cam will help make power there. A fresh set of 60/62’s on a t4 housing, 30-35psi, and a full custom 3” hotside should move plenty of air. 1200whp is easily doable, I’ve seen 1070whp on a terminator 4.6 on 27psi through stage 1-2 c heads and 61’s through a t56 and stock sct tuned ecu 7000rpm setup. You’d have more manifold, and more rpm than he had. He also had a milder cam, something like a stage 1 turbo cam. 1000rpm matters if you have a Sullivan and stage 3 cam. Obviously stage is a bullshit term, the important thing to do is specify what you’re doing with the car, prioritize the most prevalent function of the car, and steer the cam profile, turbo size, and project that direction. Example, I’m now stepping to smaller turbos because in 5,000 miles, I’ve ran 11psi or higher all of 3-5 hours worth and maybe 25-100 miles. I street drive it. My pump gas setup is really good, I just want a bit more low end bite. In a properly setup 3500lbs car on a drag pack (slicks/skinnies), 800whp is 150mph trap speed and 1.25-1.5 60ft motivation depending suspension etc. The honest truth is even on 1070whp and 20psi, I have to be in 3rd around 70mph to do a mostly wot pull. 4th over 100 it’ll hook every time. 1200-1400whp is entirely a back half as in after the 8th mile number. It’ll take you from trapping 150 to trapping 175-190 if it’s setup well and handles heat well, but otherwise it’ll just blow tires and parts. Personally, I want to get my pump gas tune running 8.9-9.5 @150+ with the irs/t56 reliably before calibrating for higher boost setups again. I figure learning what it needs to run there will then allow me to just use boost by gear after to add what power we can on e85 or racegas for crazier trap speeds and slightly quicker et’s. 60’ is where I’ll lag, tops I bet we can find is a 1.39-1.45, but we will probably be consistently in the 1.5’s which is a bottle neck for et’s. That all said, mines a street car 99% of its life, so I’m totally fine. I’d much rather have it optimized for the street and hooking well there, keep my mostly handling suspension, 13 or 14” brakes etc. For a drag build, I’d go 67’s, 9000rpm, sra, gut it, and punch for 7’s. [/QUOTE]
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