Anyone ever try to swap out the pinon seal without...

AZ ERIK

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Pulling the yoke out? Is it possible to slip it around the yoke? Some people have told me that. I'm getting the parts here in a little to fix my leaky rear finally :D
 

Dusten

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No, just pull the yoke off, its easy cheasy, just make sure you torque it back down right.
 

lightninmike

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I did it on my stang once. Just cut the seal on one side and and open it up around the yoke. Be sure to put the slice on the top tho so it doesnt leak
 

AZ ERIK

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Pinion seal replacement SUXORS!

as if it wasn't bad enough to know that I needed to replace the pinion seal while I'm under it I watch the only drip on my garage floor from this drop from the diff cover.

Good thing is I picked up enough fluid to do the whole thing (hadn't planned on it but I got it anyway) BTW this shit's not cheap! $16 a bottle, needs 3 + the $9 friction additive to keep from smoking the clutches.

I got the pinion seal done last night. I'll grab the crap for the diff cover tonight and will completely drain the rear. I should have enough time to get this all done and patched up and ready to run Friday night.

I'm also swaping the traction bars around in hopes of removing the cobblestone ride from the rear. I'll be rubber spacering them like Jim did, hopefully it's better. But I noticed my shocks have been bottoming out a lot. So on to the Strange ones!

Seal = $32
Crush washer I didn't use = $19
Friction additive= $9
75-140 Mobil1 Syn gear oil $16 x3
Gasket maker= $6
Time so far= 5.5 hours (I need more tools like a 29mm socket to pull the nut, crank pulley puller to pull the yoke, bigger guns to torque crap)

I'm running friday damn it, now if only I had some DR's
 

RIDE THE

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Just be careful not to change the pinion depth when you re-torque the pinion nut or the bearing will get wiped out real quick.
 

CSHEETS

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What you do is check the torque of the nut(before hand). Then when you are all done retorque it to that.
 

AZ ERIK

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whoops, I didn't do that, figures I'm going to go through the service manual, it would appear to be torqued around 110 ft lb's right now, but it's still up on jack stands.
 

RIDE THE

Shake & Bake
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The hard part is if you go ANY farther than the crush sleeve was before it will change the pinion preload and most of the time it will end up taking out a bearing/cup.
 

AZ ERIK

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I bought a new crush sleeve just incase but I have no idea how to "set" the thing. I guess I need to break into the manual. The ultra crap thing is there was no way to know how far it is in. The yoke is tight as hell. I had to use a puller to get it out, and it wasn't easy. So I took it in till about 110 lbs of torque. I didn't see a crush washer. There was a flat washer and the bearing. I didn't pull the bearing out. I know Ford was in the rear of this thing already about 2 years ago.


Edit: Just found out it was an inch pound torque wrench that should have set the pinion nut torque. There was so little fluid in the diff that it took a gear pulled and a lot of strength to get it off. Looks like I'm screwed. Off to the dealer we go to get the whole rear taken apart to put that new crush washer in. F*(&^ I'm pissed.
 
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nw_rockhound

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Anyone have a good way to do this? I have a friend's diff out for FTBR bushings and discovered the pinion seal is seaping. Hoping to replace this seal our selves, but sounds like I should just drop the diff off with a new seal to a reputable shop?

Being out of the automotive service work for many years, I am very experienced - just not in differentials.
 

Dusten

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Anyone have a good way to do this? I have a friend's diff out for FTBR bushings and discovered the pinion seal is seaping. Hoping to replace this seal our selves, but sounds like I should just drop the diff off with a new seal to a reputable shop?

Being out of the automotive service work for many years, I am very experienced - just not in differentials.
The rear end uses a crush sleeve. So if you can set the yoke to the exact same depth, it's pretty easy. But to much on the yoke and you'll wipe out the pinion bearing.
 

P49Y-CY

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The hard part is if you go ANY farther than the crush sleeve was before it will change the pinion preload and most of the time it will end up taking out a bearing/cup.

this is why i always rebuild my differentials with a solid pinion spacer instead of the crush sleeve. it's a little more work to set up, but imo it's worth it for when you have to replace the seal.

too difficult to get it right back to where it was before.

this way i can just torque down the nut without worry.
 

MG0h3

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I’ve done quite a few pinion seals over the years and just put a decent amount of blue loctite and whack it with the impact. You don’t need to sit there hammering on it.

It takes a lot of torque to crush the sleeve if you’ve never done it.


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