Another What's my car worth...

[bigmoose]

So i'm considering selling my Mystichrome and am trying to gauge the value, both what I should ask and what I should consider taking. I'll start off by saying that the whole reason to sell would be to afford to refinance my house down to a 15yr mortgage at under 3%. I just bought last year with a 30yr. I do love the car but i think i love the idea of paying my house off before 50 more. On to the details of the car:

2004 Mystichrome Convertible #180
28k miles in very good condition, but its not a showroom car.
No accidents, No issues, needs nothing.
Have been running E-85 since I put the fuel system in.
Used all amsoil fluids.

Mods:
Polished KB 2.2L Gen 2 in perfect condition.
2.76 billet flow sc pulley, 18#.
Billet flow idlers.

JLT RAI
BA2400 MAF
Killer Chiller with aftermarket IC tank.
Mac prochamber, Magnaflow catback

26 spline input shaft, centerforce clutch. Brand new OEM cable over the winter.

Mechman 170A alt.

Full Fore return system.
Latest Gen Fore Hat, 320e pumps, 8an feed/return, Fore stainless filter, F2i regulator.
Setup deadhead with stock rails.

Refreshed front with Steeda X2 balljoints, bumpsteer kit, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, endlinks, solid steering rack bushings.
FTBR 5001 kit with milled ford racing cover.
H&R Racing Springs

Leather in good shape but not showroom, driver seat very good as well.
MM 4/6 Point bolt in roll cage
Mystichrome Shift Boot
AEM boost gauge Cluster mount
AEM EUGO A/F gauge Cluster mount
New Carpet

Tires at least 80% left, NT05 in rear, NT555 in front.
The stock chrome wheels have some pitting, no curb rash.

Lastly the car was tuned by Pete at Performance Dyno in NH. He is one of the best in new england. So the car has a solid safe tune.

Car made 649/580 rwhp SAE on a dynojet. I believe the E85 tune only has 20* timing, I know some run 23*. The xcal does have an e70 tune and 93 tune as well.

 

[jrichber]

I would say go high 20's. To me a roll cage takes a little value away for most people but to the right person it may help as well. With the roll cage and a smaller blower, and factory rims. I just dont see 30k.

 

[bigmoose]

I would say go high 20's. To me a roll cage takes a little value away for most people but to the right person it may help as well. With the roll cage and a smaller blower, and factory rims. I just dont see 30k.

That's kind of what I was thinking. I know the roll cage is not most people's thing, it was on the car when I bought it 3 yeas ago. But I have grown to like it mostly for the safety factor even though I just go for quick spins on nice Sundays.

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[badmpg03]

Beautiful ride man. Tasteful mods.
If it were my car, I would put it out there at $32K and see what you get. More likely upper 20's where it will trade as said, but you might find that one buyer digging your setup who will pay you what you want.
With how rare 2.2's are, I see that preserving some of the value IMO.
I am seeing 3x,xxx ask be more common for a low mileage Myst

 

[bigmoose]

Just added a few other forgotten mods like billetflow Pulleys, mechman 170A alternator.

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[RI-SVT]

I've seen this car at show, it is nice car, I can see you getting 26-28k

 

[R.D.P.]

Nice car and nice mod list. How many miles on the blower or since it's been rebuilt? Small things - but I don't see a shifter listed or subframe conectors but I'm betting you have both?

A roll-bar is a great addition to these cars. MUCH better safety and chassis stiffness. Does yours have the removable door bars? What about a removable harness bar?

I think it's a high 20's, maybe 30k car for the right buyer that will appreciate the money invested in the mods. I would start it at 32k and give it a few months before really dropping the list price. New buyers coming into the market all the time.

 

[bigmoose]

I winged the mod list. I have not rebuilt the blower since I bought the car but I've had it off and cleaned the intercooler. The rotors looked mint with zero scoring and smooth spin. I did replace the snout seal due to a leak.

Car does have a shifter, cannot remember if it's a pro5.0 or mgw.

Car also has full length MM sub frame connectors.

Door bars are removable. Harness bar is fixed.

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[choate]

Something to think about, there may be people shopping for a Terminator at 30k and under or under 30k so your car may be missed in that search. I'd list it for 29.5k if it were me. I'm on though to list a car to sell if it's going to sell. I think you could get 28k out of it if someone knows what they are getting for sure. You could possibly be a hard a$$ if they really like it and be like look I can come down $500 but that's it I think if they really like it and want it

 

[bigmoose]

So I have a follow up question.

If I find a buyer local, how do you handle test drives? My other previous cobras I didn't care and just handed over the keys. The first thing I'd do is check with my insurance company.

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[RI-SVT]

gotta let them drive it, always go along with the buyer, tell them not to go crazy 650hp, this bitch will kick out on you "you wreck it you own it" If you have to make buyer sign a test drive agreement.

 

[bigmoose]

gotta let them drive it, always go along with the buyer, tell them not to go crazy 650hp, this bitch will kick out on you "you wreck it you own it" If have to make buyer sign a test drive agreement.

Good idea. I'll have to look into a legit agreement. Of course that's only good if the potential has any money if something happens.

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[c6zhombre]

Damn nice car....I forsee major regret letting that one go. But I do understand circumstances sometimes warrant a move. I think high 20s is very doable. Letting someone test drive will probably be necessary....but for sure nerve racking. GLWS

 

[bigmoose]

Thanks. I'm not sure if I'm going to sell yet. Just toying with the idea and have to do some financial planning.

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[c6zhombre]

You just got the 30yr a year ago? Not getting too nosey here...but I'd imagine it was still a heck of a rate historically speaking... somewhere in the 3's??. You can always make additional principal payments on the 30yr to pay it off early (unless you have prepayment penalties of some sort)

Just trying to angle for keeping the car lol

 

[bigmoose]

You just got the 30yr a year ago? Not getting too nosey here...but I'd imagine it was still a heck of a rate historically speaking... somewhere in the 3's??. You can always make additional principal payments on the 30yr to pay it off early (unless you have prepayment penalties of some sort)

Just trying to angle for keeping the car lol

Not nosey at all. I got 3.875 on my 30yr fixed with no pre payment penalty. I was thinking if rates drop a little I could get 2.875 with a 15 yr.

I've been running the numbers and comparing paying my 30yr off in 15 vs a 15yr at a lower rate. The difference isn't as big as I thought, about 25k in interest. That's under 20k difference after tax deductions.

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[c6zhombre]

Not nosey at all. I got 3.875 on my 30yr fixed with no pre payment penalty. I was thinking if rates drop a little I could get 2.875 with a 15 yr.

I've been running the numbers and comparing paying my 30yr off in 15 vs a 15yr at a lower rate. The difference isn't as big as I thought, about 25k in interest. That's under 20k difference after tax deductions.

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Well, thats certainly a fair chunk of change difference....but the nice thing with the 30yr and making additional pricipal payments when you want is if somewhere down the road you get to a month cash flow is a bit strapped for whatever reason, that 30yr minimum monthly payment is a whole lot less stressing than scratching together a 15yr monthly payment.

 

[GNBRETT]

$27k. That is still a desirable color to collectors.

 

[Mojo88]

I just spent 5 months looking and finally bought a car (Roush GT) last week. I looked at a few hundred cars through the various online sources, then physically looked at 3, but ended up buying a car from afar I have never physically seen or driven.

When shopping, even though I was a cash-in-hand, ready-to-go buyer, I will say that I never even bothered calling a seller if their price seemed overly aggressive. There are too many cars for sale to be wasting time on the sellers who appear to be trying to snare some uneducated sucker.

I guess what I'm saying is that your initial listing price is perhaps the most important part of the process IMHO. Think about it this way; at any given point there are a certain number of people shopping for a car. When your ad hits the interweb, you want to generate maximum excitement among those active shoppers, because a sale is most likely to happen within that group. If you put a real aggressive price in there, then all those active shoppers will turn away and you run the risk of your listing becoming stale, at which point buyers will start thinking that there must be something wrong with the car.

Anyway, GLWS, price it right.

 

[R.D.P.]

At the very least I would make the person test driving it agree to no WOT. You can do a pull with them in the passenger seat to show them how it runs. They will be able to listen to the car and feel the power better from the passenger seat anyway.

I would also say Mojo above has a point. I think there is a chance you could list it for 28k firm, that's the price take it or leave it and you might have a deposit within a day.