Another Kenwood/Maestro install thread..

RioRed4v

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Picked up the new ADS Maestro, ADS dash kit and Kenwood DNX890HD for the mustang. Big thanks to 2012GT/CS and Sound of Tristate for putting together an awesome deal for us. Also thanks to scott_o for some of the install questions I had to ask.

Install was pretty straight forward. Accessing the wire for SYNC and OBDII was a bit of a pain though. Really loving how much you can customize the setup and how much better the audio quality is.

CM5 kit was an mistake in the shipping, otherwise the other parts were all necessary. CM5 kit was actually supposed to be the RR Maestro unit.

IMG_1016 by riored4v, on Flickr

Maestro RR

IMG_1027 by riored4v, on Flickr

Stock

IMG_1017 by riored4v, on Flickr

SYNC module located behind glove box

IMG_1020 by riored4v, on Flickr

Sh1tty pic.. but the SYNC wire that needed to be tested. Should read 5v and then drop when the SYNC voice command button is pushed.

IMG_1021 by riored4v, on Flickr

Pulled the OBD2 harness out from the clip and had to splice in to these 2 wires

IMG_1026 by riored4v, on Flickr

For splicing the factory SiriusXM antenna, you have to remove this clip after taking the cable out of the factory head unit

IMG_1024 by riored4v, on Flickr

You can then put it in the aftermarket tuner. Its a slightly loose fit, so some epoxy was used on the outside portion.

IMG_1023 by riored4v, on Flickr

Tuner in place

IMG_1025 by riored4v, on Flickr

Mess of wires from the ADS harness

IMG_1022 by riored4v, on Flickr

Also had to run the GPS wire through the dash. Decided to mount mine in the middle of the dash in front of the light sensor

IMG_1037 by riored4v, on Flickr

Then you plug the RR module in to the computer, program it and flash it and it fires everything up.

IMG_1031 by riored4v, on Flickr

Unit come with a ton of different buttons so you can customize the layout of the dash kit.

IMG_1034 by riored4v, on Flickr


IMG_1043 by riored4v, on Flickr


IMG_1039 by riored4v, on Flickr


IMG_1038 by riored4v, on Flickr

Also had to run RCA's back for rest of the stereo. So much nicer going through an aftermarket deck now.

IMG_1040 by riored4v, on Flickr


IMG_0300 by riored4v, on Flickr
 

N20D5OH

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This is one of the only things that I wished I didn't get a base model because of. As much as my MFT in my explorer gave me problems, it was awesome. I can't imagine what this would be like.
 

jasonc32amg

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This is one of the only things that I wished I didn't get a base model because of. As much as my MFT in my explorer gave me problems, it was awesome. I can't imagine what this would be like.

What do you mean? One of the reasons I got a base was that I knew I'd be replacing the system.
 

jasonc32amg

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My understanding was without sync many of the options won't work. Please enlighten me if I'm wrong. It'll make me happy.

You're right that you don't have many options but you do have several:
1. Metra w/ LCD
2. Metra w/o LCD
3. Scosche??
4. Line out converter for factory h/u

I'm going with number 2. (The part number is 995823ch) I chose this route because it seems like it would be the most reliable and have a factory appearance. I'm using some pieces from my previous system AVH8400 head unit, hd600 and hd750 for amp duty powering alpine 6x8's front and back and a 12w6v2 in a sealed box out back. :beer:
 

scott_0

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looks great! did you ever figure out what the noise was you were getting with the lights on?
 

RioRed4v

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looks great! did you ever figure out what the noise was you were getting with the lights on?

Yup. Didn't plug in the sub-in RCA to the back of the deck. ADS was saying it was more or less grounding out and caused the noise. So I plugged it to the rear-output since my sub-out was already taken.
 

12V Guy

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Looks great,

Thanks for the post and glad we were able to help get your noise sorted out.

Cheers,

12V Guy
Automotive Data Solutions, Inc.
Montreal, Quebec
 
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scott_0

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Yup. Didn't plug in the sub-in RCA to the back of the deck. ADS was saying it was more or less grounding out and caused the noise. So I plugged it to the rear-output since my sub-out was already taken.
I dont understand, so youre using the rear rca output to go to the sub? my noise is exactly as you described, if I turn the parking lights or headlights on at night and the dash lights come on, I get the noise, if I turn the lights on during the day light and the dash lights dont come on, I dont get the noise.........
 

RioRed4v

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I dont understand, so youre using the rear rca output to go to the sub? my noise is exactly as you described, if I turn the parking lights or headlights on at night and the dash lights come on, I get the noise, if I turn the lights on during the day light and the dash lights dont come on, I dont get the noise.........

My noise seemed slightly different.. Mine was more tied to the interior dash lights which I thought was caused from when I turned the headlights on. But then I noticed i would get the noise in my garage, even when the headlights were off, but the dash lights were on. Plus, the volume of the noise would change higher/lower depending on where I would set the dimmer.

So for my aftermarket amp/sub, I have the RCA's for that plugged in to the SW Out on the deck. Then on the Maestro T-harness, i have the SW In plugged in the Rear Out. It's done this way so I can still control my aftermarket sub amp with the SW settings. Hope that makes sense.
 

scott_0

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So for my aftermarket amp/sub, I have the RCA's for that plugged in to the SW Out on the deck. Then on the Maestro T-harness, i have the SW In plugged in the Rear Out. It's done this way so I can still control my aftermarket sub amp with the SW settings. Hope that makes sense.
Im having the very same issue, I mean the exact issue as you. so the noise comes from the t-harness subwoofer rca just laying freely, so in essence its just getting plugged in to kill the noise feedback basically? does this in anyway effect the factory amp that runs the front and rear speakers? I only have an amp hooked up to run my subwoofer
 

RioRed4v

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Im having the very same issue, I mean the exact issue as you. so the noise comes from the t-harness subwoofer rca just laying freely, so in essence its just getting plugged in to kill the noise feedback basically? does this in anyway effect the factory amp that runs the front and rear speakers? I only have an amp hooked up to run my subwoofer

Yup. I think he said on the phone its grounding out something with the Shaker500 system. Basically the subwoofer rca is laying freely and contacting something under the dash causing the noise. Try plugging the rca in to your Rear Out on the deck.

From what it sounded like, it doesnt effect the stock amps at all.

I didnt get the noise upon first install, but after moving some things around, I was getting that noise. Last night I plugged in that SW rca, shuffled things around, drove it around, tested all the lights, dimmers, etc and so far no noises:rockon:
 

scott_0

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Thanks dude!!!!!!! I see exactly what youre saying now, Ill try it this Friday when Im off work again, Im going to see if I cant just plug it into a long rca cable and hide it under the carpet on the passenger side near the dash and wrap the opposite rca end with electrical tape so it cant ground out and cause any noises. thanks again!!
 

Clutch73

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So this requires sync? Sorry but I thought it was advertised as not needing it? Would like to know cause I'm very interested in going this route.
 

12V Guy

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Thanks dude!!!!!!! I see exactly what youre saying now, Ill try it this Friday when Im off work again, Im going to see if I cant just plug it into a long rca cable and hide it under the carpet on the passenger side near the dash and wrap the opposite rca end with electrical tape so it cant ground out and cause any noises. thanks again!!

Hi,

If you have this noise, it means usually means you have the Shaker 500 or Shaker 1000 system which have subwoofer amplifiers. If you do not connect the RCA, the amplifier turns on, but the input is undriven. The floating RCA then picks up small signal from anywhere and feeds it into the amplifier.

In RioRed4V's case he is running his Sub out from his deck to an aftermarket subwoofer amplifier. Ideally, he'd want to Y off the deck and feed the factory RCA as well since the large bass speakers in the door need that RCA for to play music.

In your case, if you are not using an aftermarket sub amp, you should plug it into the Kenwood radio subwoofer output and set x-over.

Hope this helps.
 

scott_0

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Good luck. Post up or shoot me a text if that works for you!
will do! appreciate it

Hi,

If you have this noise, it means usually means you have the Shaker 500 or Shaker 1000 system which have subwoofer amplifiers. If you do not connect the RCA, the amplifier turns on, but the input is undriven. The floating RCA then picks up small signal from anywhere and feeds it into the amplifier.

In RioRed4V's case he is running his Sub out from his deck to an aftermarket subwoofer amplifier. Ideally, he'd want to Y off the deck and feed the factory RCA as well since the large bass speakers in the door need that RCA for to play music.

In your case, if you are not using an aftermarket sub amp, you should plug it into the Kenwood radio subwoofer output and set x-over.

Hope this helps.
I have a Kicker subwoofer amp I installed, thats when the issue arose, after I simply unplugged the Shaker sub rca from the t-harness, I was going to plug an rca into it and tape off the end with electrical tape to isolate it, would this stop the noise Im getting?
 

Clutch73

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RioRed4v, thank you for the link. I know I read on Crutchfield site it did not require sync but I don't necessarily trust everything they cut and paste on the product info page as the gospel.
 

RioRed4v

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Hi,

If you have this noise, it means usually means you have the Shaker 500 or Shaker 1000 system which have subwoofer amplifiers. If you do not connect the RCA, the amplifier turns on, but the input is undriven. The floating RCA then picks up small signal from anywhere and feeds it into the amplifier.

In RioRed4V's case he is running his Sub out from his deck to an aftermarket subwoofer amplifier. Ideally, he'd want to Y off the deck and feed the factory RCA as well since the large bass speakers in the door need that RCA for to play music.

In your case, if you are not using an aftermarket sub amp, you should plug it into the Kenwood radio subwoofer output and set x-over.

Hope this helps.


Interesting. Running a Y wasn't mentioned to me on the phone. Should I try to find a Y adapter to run both the T-Harness RCA and my aftermarket RCA's on the subwoofer channel on the deck? Wouldn't that cause issues with trying to dial in the aftermarket sub amp since it would also then be controlling the door subs?
 

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