Another Alternator Thread

[fordguy_1997]

Hey guys,

I know this is kind of a dead horse that’s been beaten quite a few times, but after looking through the ancient texts on the forums I was wondering if there is any current approaches cobra owners take to address alternators for these cars. I have delved into the theory and with what I would want to achieve for the car 150-160 amps is all I need, but outside of the mechman 170 amp which runs over 500 at this point - is there a solution that is slightly more cost effective or is it one of those things where you just run what you can and get a voltmeter installed to keep an eye on it to spot the failure before it goes catastrophic? I’ve read the horror stories of people doing pulls with these cars and a failing alternator becoming the death of the engine and I’m simply trying to avoid that given the car will likely see occasional drives with a healthy amount of on ramp pulls and whatnot. I’ve also seen where people swap pulleys around and how that could affect the ability of the alternator to survive prolonged periods of time, but I doubt that pulleys alone really present a solution.

Again, I understand this is one of the more common questions but to get a more with the times (and current market availability) answer would be helpful as I wrap up getting parts together for my cobra’s reassembly.

 

[SsnakeSVT03]

Heat is the biggest enemy of the alternator for our cars. Majority of the time they are being over spun.

KMJ is a popular choice. He offers lifetime warranty too. I have one in my car and it has been about 3-4 seasons. He sells both 200 and 250 amp units. Bit on the pricey side but you won’t have any alternator issues to deal with down the road.

I have heard good things about Nations and J2 too.

Any alternator you choose, make sure to get the correct-sized alternator pulley to prevent over-spinning.

 

[fordguy_1997]

What is the potential consequences that could occur with running a 200 AMP alternator on a car that wouldn’t necessarily need it? I would like to eventually run 220 lb pumps in place of the OEM 180 lbs, and then a bigger pump for the blower but I wouldn’t want to go beyond an 07-09 GT500 equivalent. I ask because it seems the risk associated with running too big of an alternator is that at idle it doesn’t provide you with adequate current flow which can cause problems with electronic components.

 

[03' White Snake]

The voltage regulator is what goes bad inside the alternator. Heat is what kills them. There is a tiny little heat sink on the back of the chip in the regulator, it just cannot remove enough heat and burns up the chip. It is not the AMP's or over spinning them that is killing them. All the high dollar alternators out there are running external voltage regulators. This is so you can remote mount them away from the heat of the engine bay.

I tried working for months with an Electrical Engineer at work on trying to modify a stock alternator to run an external regulator. It is not that simple. I gave up and spent the money for a Nations alternator.

An alternator actually needs electricity to make make electricity, unlike a generator. Just spinning a generator will produce electricity, not the same with an alternator.

 

[fordguy_1997]

I appreciate everyone’s input on this. I definitely was putting a lot of stress on this one when thinking about it but due to the seeming trend of alternators becoming pain points with these cars I am just trying to bullet proof where I can. I came across a refurbished 200A Nations alternator for 375, so I’m going to go with that and learn the new skill of getting the voltage regulator wired in once I pick it up. I’m at the point of waiting for parts to come in and for Stiegemeier to begin working on the blower, so hopefully I can get her on her first crank and on the way to a dyno within a few weeks.

 

[03' White Snake]

I appreciate everyone’s input on this. I definitely was putting a lot of stress on this one when thinking about it but due to the seeming trend of alternators becoming pain points with these cars I am just trying to bullet proof where I can. I came across a refurbished 200A Nations alternator for 375, so I’m going to go with that and learn the new skill of getting the voltage regulator wired in once I pick it up. I’m at the point of waiting for parts to come in and for Stiegemeier to begin working on the blower, so hopefully I can get her on her first crank and on the way to a dyno within a few weeks.

I bought a harness from EBay, (3g to 6G or other way I forget) and another OEM 6G connector, made a tiny 6” long plug and play harness (male to female 6G) so I didn’t have to cut my OEM harness to run the nation’s alternator. All plug and play. I am really happy with the Nations Alternator.

 

[bird_dog0347]

I'm kinda new to the 4.6 platform, is the alternator a concern on all of the 4V or just the Terminators due to the supercharger setup?

 

[BlckBox04]

Make sure you do the big 3 wiring upgrade. I did this with an eBay mechman and it fixed a ton of electrical issues I was having.

 

[P49Y-CY]

I'm kinda new to the 4.6 platform, is the alternator a concern on all of the 4V or just the Terminators due to the supercharger setup?

i don't think it's a concern, i got 140k out of mine.

but my fuel system, lower pulley, and stereo are all stock.

 

[01yellercobra]

I'm kinda new to the 4.6 platform, is the alternator a concern on all of the 4V or just the Terminators due to the supercharger setup?

It's not an issue with the other years because it's on top of the engine. Plenty of airflow.

I've heard running a duct of some sort to the Terminator alternators helps as there's very little airflow. For a mostly stock car, it's probably not an issue. But start adding bigger pumps, amps, intercooler pumps, etc, the stock alternator gets taxed pretty quick. Then add in running a tight belt to alleviate belt slip and over spinning due to larger lowers, you can see where the issues pop up.

 

[bird_dog0347]

i don't think it's a concern, i got 140k out of mine.

but my fuel system, lower pulley, and stereo are all stock.

It's not an issue with the other years because it's on top of the engine. Plenty of airflow.

I've heard running a duct of some sort to the Terminator alternators helps as there's very little airflow. For a mostly stock car, it's probably not an issue. But start adding bigger pumps, amps, intercooler pumps, etc, the stock alternator gets taxed pretty quick. Then add in running a tight belt to alleviate belt slip and over spinning due to larger lowers, you can see where the issues pop up.

Ok cool, my 98 Cobra engine is pretty much stock, stock pump, stock stereo, etc with about 70k miles. The 97 Cobra engine that is going in my 92 coupe is supercharged (Vortech) and will have two big pumps and a better stereo system. I can look into putting an upgraded alternator on it while it's apart for the bottom end build.

 

[Murderedsvt]

J2fab failed me less than a year, kmj flickers all of my lights and dash all grounds have been checked and the big 3 has been done, last time I called and asked about it he said it’s normal and you have to wear it in. So I’ll be getting a mechman.

 

[fordguy_1997]

I bought a harness from EBay, (3g to 6G or other way I forget) and another OEM 6G connector, made a tiny 6” long plug and play harness (male to female 6G) so I didn’t have to cut my OEM harness to run the nation’s alternator. All plug and play. I am really happy with the Nations Alternator.

Would definitely like to PM to get some further clarification on this setup. I have looked at the instructions and it seems a bit wonky and I’d love to understand how you ran the external VR.

 

[fordguy_1997]

Make sure you do the big 3 wiring upgrade. I did this with an eBay mechman and it fixed a ton of electrical issues I was having.

Is there an up to date kit that you guys can recommend? It seems that mechman was the popular one back in the day, but they don’t seem to have the kit for sale anymore. JS seems to make a big 3 kit, but they have pre-crimped connections without 90 degree angle connectors which from what I’ve found make the install a lot more clean. I apologize for the kind of shotgun style question - I’ve been snowballing like crazy with this car as I’ve continued learning about it.

 

[BlckBox04]

Is there an up to date kit that you guys can recommend? It seems that mechman was the popular one back in the day, but they don’t seem to have the kit for sale anymore. JS seems to make a big 3 kit, but they have pre-crimped connections without 90 degree angle connectors which from what I’ve found make the install a lot more clean. I apologize for the kind of shotgun style question - I’ve been snowballing like crazy with this car as I’ve continued learning about it.

I made all my own stuff. It's really not hard to do if you have mechanical ability.

this is actually the alt I bought not mechman

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3648407522...eUHTWwsSL1UnQwfvPxYjzs+n1E|tkp:Bk9SR9yKvp6qZQ

 

[03' White Snake]

Yea, make your own. It’s much cheaper than buying a kit. Look for #4 flexible welding power wire. You can buy it by the foot at TractorSupply or online. Or quality 1/0 wire online. Then you need ring terminals for the size wire you decide to get.

Key is, you want to run a new ground from block to frame rail. Power wire from battery to alternator. And finally a ground from battery to frame rail or back of alternator. Some add a fuse on the power wire to the alternator for safety.

 

[bird_dog0347]

Yea, make your own. It’s much cheaper than buying a kit. Look for #4 flexible welding power wire. You can buy it by the foot at TractorSupply or online. Or quality 1/0 wire online. Then you need ring terminals for the size wire you decide to get.

Key is, you want to run a new ground from block to frame rail. Power wire from battery to alternator. And finally a ground from battery to frame rail or back of alternator. Some add a fuse on the power wire to the alternator for safety.

This is how I did the 3G alternator and wire upgrade on my 1992 coupe.

 

[BlckBox04]

Yea, make your own. It’s much cheaper than buying a kit. Look for #4 flexible welding power wire. You can buy it by the foot at TractorSupply or online. Or quality 1/0 wire online. Then you need ring terminals for the size wire you decide to get.

Key is, you want to run a new ground from block to frame rail. Power wire from battery to alternator. And finally a ground from battery to frame rail or back of alternator. Some add a fuse on the power wire to the alternator for safety.

I didn't feel like typing all this but I did the same thing

 

[fordguy_1997]

Alright guys,

I have had a couple questions about alternators and have been working close with 03’ White Snake who has been of immeasurable help to understand the best way to go about it. I just had a couple technical questions and will include the reference that I am using that prompted these questions below.

My first review of Nations 200 amp alternator.

I will keep this thread updated as time goes by. There are a couple thing worth mentioning that are NOT talked about in the instructions. Which are basic instructions and NOT 03-04 cobra specific. The kit comes with a bolt that I found out was to big in diameter to fit in the lower alternator...

www.svtperformance.com

Number one - I feel like I’m crazy, but I have looked at every single picture and thread and there’s mention of a white wire that seems to be a part of the harness and I don’t think I have it. Is that something that should be included in this harness here or is that an extra wire that I have to source? It seems silly that independently sourcing would be the case, but stranger things have happened.

Second, looking at the thread posted above - it seems that people had issues with belt alignment while installing these alternators due to the washers. I sent pictures of the washers that I have with the kit (the third thin one I don’t know its purpose - would assume it is something that matters with the power wire) but do those appear to be the updated thicker washers that ensure proper alignment?

Lastly, I did inquire as to whether or not the pulley was a 3.1 or a 2.9 inch as it seems there is a possibility of either or depending on manufacturing date, and I am keeping my pulley system OEM in terms of pulley sizes to include the blower pulley - the question I have is should I add an extra inch to the stock belt length to compensate for the bigger pulley on the alternator compared to OEM?

I apologize for shotgunning questions about this and I feel like I’ve discussed this ad nauseum, but I’m just trying to do it correctly and get trouble free results where I can. I’ve made solid progress with swapping the heat exchanger and installing the coolant modification and building out my PCV system, but this endeavor is far more than I originally knew going into it and requires me to adjust my thinking hat in a new way in relation to making a part work on a car.

I appreciate any input from you guys, and thank you as always.

 

[03' White Snake]

Alright guys,

I have had a couple questions about alternators and have been working close with 03’ White Snake who has been of immeasurable help to understand the best way to go about it. I just had a couple technical questions and will include the reference that I am using that prompted these questions below.

My first review of Nations 200 amp alternator.

I will keep this thread updated as time goes by. There are a couple thing worth mentioning that are NOT talked about in the instructions. Which are basic instructions and NOT 03-04 cobra specific. The kit comes with a bolt that I found out was to big in diameter to fit in the lower alternator...

www.svtperformance.com

Number one - I feel like I’m crazy, but I have looked at every single picture and thread and there’s mention of a white wire that seems to be a part of the harness and I don’t think I have it. Is that something that should be included in this harness here or is that an extra wire that I have to source? It seems silly that independently sourcing would be the case, but stranger things have happened.

Second, looking at the thread posted above - it seems that people had issues with belt alignment while installing these alternators due to the washers. I sent pictures of the washers that I have with the kit (the third thin one I don’t know its purpose - would assume it is something that matters with the power wire) but do those appear to be the updated thicker washers that ensure proper alignment?

Lastly, I did inquire as to whether or not the pulley was a 3.1 or a 2.9 inch as it seems there is a possibility of either or depending on manufacturing date, and I am keeping my pulley system OEM in terms of pulley sizes to include the blower pulley - the question I have is should I add an extra inch to the stock belt length to compensate for the bigger pulley on the alternator compared to OEM?

I apologize for shotgunning questions about this and I feel like I’ve discussed this ad nauseum, but I’m just trying to do it correctly and get trouble free results where I can. I’ve made solid progress with swapping the heat exchanger and installing the coolant modification and building out my PCV system, but this endeavor is far more than I originally knew going into it and requires me to adjust my thinking hat in a new way in relation to making a part work on a car.

I appreciate any input from you guys, and thank you as always.

Looks like you might need to add a wire to your harness. Should have 5 wires to plug into the external voltage regulator. This is where they should plug into and where they come from on the alternator. Don’t necessarily go by color on yours, go by where they should plug in.

Don’t worry about pulley size. You set the voltage after the engine is hot to 14.2-14.4 and call it a day. Mine never drops below 14v. Yes you will need to shim the alternator with washers to align the belt. I’ll have to look how much. The washers included were not correct though. Then figure out the belt length by running string around the pulleys and flexing the tensioner.