Another 99 Cobra build thread...

[Deceptive]

Few Suggestions

If you only want 600ish hp why go twins? I know it is sexier but if rocking the man trans and 600hp is the goal maybe look at a single turbo.

As far as engine build, if on 93 I’d try to be around 9.5:1 if E85 is an option then 10.5:1 or higher. And stock with as little bore as is needed. Also, either find a good used set of 03-04 Manley/SVT rods or get Molnar.

I’d have the heads worked a bit but it is not necessary. Degree the 96-98 cams for certain.

As far as IRS goes, throw a whole MM or FTBR catalog at it and use stock halfshafts.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Alright guys I know it’s been a little longer than I was hoping and I was really hoping to have the motor on a stand before I started posting pictures but it’s been a really busy couple of weeks as far as my every day life goes. And I flat out ran out of time today to get it off the picker and on the stand.

As far twins or single is concerned, I know a single will give me more than I’m looking to make. That said I would really like to keep the engine at itself looking as oem as possible. I don’t want a turbo or a centrifugal supercharger sitting in front of my motor. Those can both be a bit of a pain to do any belt, pulley, water pump, or accessory work around. And well, like you said twins are just sexier lol.

I found a nice set of SVT/Manley rods and ordered them even though I haven’t been in the motor yet. Simply because it was a good price and now even if it is forged like the previous owner said, I now have spares. Not a bad thing in the grand scheme.

As far as the rear is concerned I was kinda set on trying to find a full 03-04 cobra irs so I could but my 99 irs in my wife’s gt. Problem is, I guess I should have bought the complete 04 rear I found 6 or 7 months ago. I can’t find anything even close to complete now. So I am either going to have to piece one together or scrap the idea and get the basics to turn mine into the 03-04 and buy the 99 complete irs I saw for my wife. For now I’ll keep my eyes open because that doesn’t need to happen for a little while.

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Honestly if this is anything but a handling car, put a 6R80 in it. Bone stock trans is a monster as is, don't have to do shit to it.

This is going to be a handling car and I’d like to keep it a manual. I think the magnum is going to be the endgame goal honestly, but in the mean time I’d really like to see how my t45 holds up.

Also one more picture for the night lol. I know it’s not an SVT but my wife’s gt looks really good with my 315s and 275s lol. Figured I’m not gonna be running these on the cobra anymore and she’s always liked them.

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Got the motor on the stand and cracked into it a little today. Gotta say I was a little nervous pulling the valve covers off. But I was relatively happy with how everything under there looked.

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Got a little more work done today. Got the motor all the way down to the short block and BOY was I both disappointed and happy lol. On one side(the disappointment) as I predicted the previous owner DID NOT forge the bottom end. Also, it looked like before I got a hold of it, it had gone some time without an oil change here and there or a lot lol. Along with some pretty heavy burnt oil build up on the pistons. There is some light scoring on the cylinder walls but as long as the original hone wasn’t done over the top I won’t need to take much out of the sleeves. Which transitions into why I’m happy. Given the taper and the original hone isn’t bad I should be able to get away with a very minimal bore or even just a good machine hone. Also I already found and bought my NEW, never used, SVT/Manley h-beams! Here are a few pictures of the motor and you can see what I was talking about with the color and the buildup.

 

[52merc]

At least from the pictures it doesn't look really bad. Good luck with the rebuild and keep us posted.

 

[Slammed99Vert]

OOOHHHH!!! And I forgot to mention because I was in a bit of a rush to post yesterday! At some point this motor snapped a timing chain! I know I know it happens. That’s not why I’m bringing it up though. When it snapped the previous owner(refraining myself from calling names) did NOT drop the oil pan to clean all the bits of chain out! All he did was flush it a few times with oil till the bits stopped coming out. I wish one JUST one bit would have fallen out in one of the oil changes I did! Kinda scary to think about everything foolhardy I've done while driving this car knowing now that at any point it could have snapped another chain or worse. Honestly in the grand scheme of things this is on myself as well. I guess from here on out any other used mustangs we buy I’ll be dropping the oilpan immediately after purchase. I didn’t get any pictures yesterday because like I said I was in a rush. I’ll get one on Monday for you guys.

 

[52merc]

Well that adds some suspense to the teardown, doesn't it.

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Yea but it didn’t look like it did any real damage anywhere. My main concern at this point is, how bad is the taper in the sleeves. I really don’t want to have to re-sleeve this motor and I am a bit worried that may be the case. I’m thinking if it needs a sleeve job I may just start looking for a good Teksid block or maybe even a good, built aluminum shortblock.

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Alright guys. I didn’t get a chance to snap a picture of the oil pan on Monday. Instead I was a little busy doing a cobra brake swap on my buddies kb gt. Turned out really nice. But I haven’t had a chance to make it back into the shop.

That said I’ve been doing some digging on heads for this build. Best I can tell these are unrevised C heads. And from what I’ve been reading the best all around heads for this build are going to be the revised 03-04 heads. I’d really like if someone had any experience with all this to chime in and help me get to the bottom of what I should do here. I’m not sure if this makes a difference or not but from the reading I’ve done the problem with the unrevised C heads is the cooling issue on 6,7, and 8. Now I will be running the coolant crossover delete. Like I said I’m not sure if that’s going to make a difference.

I’d honestly really like to just be able to use the heads I have already. And full disclosure I’m not even certain of which heads I have. Anyone know and easy way to tell them apart? If you guys think the numbers I’m looking for are attainable with the heads I’ve got and a cam degree then that’s probably the route I’ll take. I’m just worried about that cooling issue in the long run.

As always your guys experience and constructive criticism is always welcome. I just want to make sure this is a reliable build.

Fast, reliable, cheap. Pick two. I don’t want to spend money I don’t need to spend, but the two I’ve picked are fast and reliable. So I know I’m gonna spend on it. Just don’t want to spend on things that are unnecessary or others have ruled out on previous builds. Thanks guys!

 

[01yellercobra]

Post the part number of the head. We can tell you which version you have. That being said, plenty of people have made big power on stock 01 heads. Valve job and new seals and call it good. If you have the budget you could do some light port work. But 600hp is totally doable with stock heads and cams.

You could run the coolant flow mod, but I've never personally ran one. And I never had issues with cylinders 7 and 8. At least on my big builds. On my BB/S I even ran a stock thermostat with modified fan settings. Looking back I do wish I had at least gone to a lower temp stat.

The cooling delete only works with the front of the engine. You'll want the flow mod that mounts to the back of the driver side head if you're concerned about it.

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Okay guys, sorry for the delay. Real life can be such a pain at times... hahaha

So I think I’ve found someone to do my machine work out here in California. A gentleman named Dave that runs a shop called Burbank Speed and Machine. Had a nice talk with him yesterday, and it feels like we can get on the same page with what I’m trying to accomplish here. Anyone with prior experience with him or his shop please chime in!

I got that picture of the oil pan for you guys with all my little friends still inside.... hahaha and a picture of the casting number on the head. Looks to me after the digging I’ve done it is a C head. So I believe for peace of mind I will be using that cooling mod and the crossover delete, along with an electric water pump.

During the rest of the disassembly I did run into a few snags. Two of which were near misses that solved themselves with a little bit of a ginger hand and some luck. Two of the main bolts partially snapped upon breaking them loose! Like I said though, luckily I did get them out of the block in one piece! See the picture below. The one that is complete broke actually came out in one piece but I wanted to see how lucky I was that it all came out. And let me tell you! I put about a pound of pressure on that bolt and it just buckled! The last snag is more of an actual issue. The previous owner during his “rebuild” stripped the threads in the drivers side #1 side main. Instead of having it rethreaded it looked like he slathered a larger bolt in high temp and just rammed it in there. I’ll have to talk to the machine shop and see what he says but if you guys have any ideas I’m keen to hear them!

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Alright guys I need so serious input!!!! I.E. HELP!!! Lol. I think I may have found an actual set of 00 Cobra R heads! I’m not sure of the shape they are in and I should be going to take a look at them tomorrow!! Please guys let me know what I should be looking for and what the casting # on these things is so I can make sure they are real. I’ve done some digging and found some stuff about it but any extra input is always welcome! From the reading I’ve done it seems my intake lower won’t work with these heads but a set of 03-04 exhaust manifolds will work on them, along with meeting up with the twin turbo setup down the road. If my intake setup will work that would be great but I don’t thing it will, honestly not sure. Also I’m actually not sure they will be all that beneficial considering I’m not going big bore. Like I said guys I need some serious help figuring out if I should even be looking at these things.

On another note I dropped the block off at the machine shop today. Hoping I get some good news back and he can get to work on it!

 

[Deceptive]

Don’t overthink this.

Use your C Heads, get new valve seats, valve job, and maybe some bowl blending. Do the head cooking mod and you should be fine.

Going to the R Heads means you need to spend more on getting the intake to work. Money that could be spent on head work. You don’t need the R Heads for your goals.

If you are hell bent on twins, I’d look at Precision 5858s. Small, move enough air to make 1000hp on a 4.6 build, should spool quick, and cheap.

You can keep the stock 01 Intake manifold.

Don’t overthink it.

Is E85 a possibility? If so I’d do at least 10:1CR. You could run low boost on 93 and turn it up for E85.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[Slammed99Vert]

Well seeing as how sketchy this guy is being, the heads may have been way too good to be true unfortunately. The main reason I wanted to try and jump on them quick was the price was in the dirt. Hence why I was trying to dig every drop of info I could. Potentially, they may have been so cheap because they were cracked. I may never find out. Maybe a blessing in disguise?

Anyway, I got some awesome news from Dave at Burbank Speed and Machine. He mic’ed my block and he said he can make everything nice and perfect only going 1 over oem bore size. My SVT/Manley rods with arp 2000s should be here soon, so it’s time to start ordering some other new toys. I’m putting together an order for arp head studs and main and side bolts so he can go ahead and start machining the block. He told me to start looking for pistons for a final bore of 3.561. I’ve been thinking of running a set of cp’s, simply because I know they come with good rings still made here in the good ole US of A. Thoughts?

The 5858’s may be a good choice for this build for more than one reason. Knowing myself I am only asking for 600 rwhp but, I’m really good at always wanting more. At least with those I won’t be able to ask for more than my build can handle lol.

E-85 is a possibility. That said I’ve seen some really weird stuff when it comes to guys running California corn, mainly when they pull the motor apart. I want this motor to last a really damn long time and I am unsure of what the e-85 will do to that longevity. I was thinking of possibly running 91 pump gas (I hate Ca)with a dash of the c15 that I use for my big block n/a boat to bring it up to around 93 or so for most street driving and POSSIBLY (still not sure yet) running corn for track time only.

As always feel free to flame me for anything I’ve got wrong here lol. All kidding aside guys. Thanks for all your help with this build so far! Even though it really is still in its infancy.

 

[97snakebite]

I work in a machine shop and I would recommend going at least .010 over. I wouldn’t bother with trying a stock bore size, I also highly recommend torque plating we only bore and hone with torque plates on the 4.6/5.4 and coyotes. We bored a teksid .020 over I’ve heard of people going .060 over but that would be pushing it very thin on the stock sleeves.

As far as connecting rods go you can use boss rods as a cheap alternative but remember it’s still a stock rod all be it a fairly stout stock rod. 03/04 manleys are a good choice but more expensive and they already come with arp 8740 bolts.

Pistons we use either Mahle, CP, Manley, or have them custom built by racetec.

As said above me don’t forget about the rest of the drivetrain.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

.060!! i choked at under .030

 

[01yellercobra]

For pistons I would look into Gibtec as well. I've heard good things about them. I ran Diamonds in my big bore, but a member on here had some issues with them a while ago.

What weird stuff are you talking about engine wise? I haven't heard anything, but I only know a couple guys running it.

 

[cease1236]

keep up the good work! Im in the same boat you are and want to rebuild my 99 cobra. keep us posted

 

[Slammed99Vert]

@slo984now i have seen some really weird pit and wear patterns on some of the Ca corn cars. Could be number things other than the E-85. And I honestly couldn’t tell you for sure it was solely the Ca E-85.

Alright guys it’s been a little while since the last update and really that’s because I don’t have much to update you on. My spare time in the shop has been a little off topic. I’ve been helping a good friend of mine. He has a really cool old school big tire car that has been in much need of love and he needed a little of a helping hand to re-energize the build. He’s and amazing guy and it’s his shop I’ve been holding hostage for my build. I’ll post some pictures for you guys. He is also the gentleman that owns the Kenne Bell GT we put the cobra brakes on.

Anyway. While working on the big tire Falcon we were discussing the steps moving forward on the cobra build while the motor is still at the machine shop. My wife and I had been discussing all the projects I have running right now. Between three major projects and work I’ve been a little stretched thin and stressed out. She made a recommendation that I simply couldn’t ignore (she comes from a family that was HEAVILY involved in the world of drag boats, she’s well versed in what it takes to build race ready vehicles. And she’s a bombshell to boot! Ignoring her advice on motors and such, these projects normally end with her telling me “I told you so” if I don’t listen lol). After discussing this with him he wisely agreed with my wife.

So a little reluctantly, here come some changes to this build. Instead of going twins we are going to change gears and goals a little by trading power adders. We’ve decided to go supercharged and lower rwhp goals to around 450. The bottom end is still going to get the same parts as before so there are no changes there. Most if not all of the rest of the cars build will be the same. Maybe just dialed back a little to bring this back to a fun build my entire family will be able to enjoy a ride in safely. I realize some of you may lose interest in this build because of this. That said, I’m still going to need as much help from you guys as I can get. So here comes the questions!

I don’t want to do a centrifugal even though it seems it would be much easier, simply because I love the sound of the roots style. That doesn’t mean it is out of the question, it’s just not preferred. I was thinking of doing the Kenne Bell kit but it’s not offered for my car any more from what I can tell (they are local ish to me so I’ll be calling them tomorrow and possibly visiting them soon), so that leaves me with my only option potentially being getting a 03-04 intake manifold and using any one of the options for that car. Correct me if I am mistaken but I think that means I need the 03-04 timing cover as well, along with a few other odds and ends. So guys what do you think? Take the easy centrifugal route, or since the motor is already out and taken to a bare block should I start hunting down the parts needed to use any one of the many aftermarket superchargers offered for the Terminator?

All your guys help has been a massive ace in the hole for me on this build so your input as always is highly appreciated! Here are a couple pictures of that Falcon I was talking about. THANKS GUYS!!!

 

[01yellercobra]

KB stopped making the 2.1 a long time ago. You can do the eaton swap, but the list is long. Theres a sticky at the top that has the list of everything you need.

With good parts 600 still isn't out of the question. I'm a centri guy. I'd run a D1 and call it a day.