Need some chrome naked ladies.
And so it begins...
- Thread starter Tob
- Start date
Need some chrome naked ladies.
Don't know how I didn't see this Nick - my apologies. Back has me quarantined anyway but I'd be happy to help over the phone if that matters. Just let me know what you're up to.
In the meantime, I'm collecting parts for my next visit under the shoebox.
In the meantime, I'm collecting parts for my next visit under the shoebox.
Looks like a quality part.
nice looking piece!
i just was so confused with my hardtop (looking for a high pitched squeak) and been wondering why i can't get the t30 to fit those smaller bolts...turns out they are locating pins i guess haha.
the dealer drove mine around topless a lot and slapped all this shit on just good enough to drive around town...found 3 latches not closed so far, all doors were making that horrendous crunch noise and needed tightened also. scary these are the people i've gotta let install the tune
i just was so confused with my hardtop (looking for a high pitched squeak) and been wondering why i can't get the t30 to fit those smaller bolts...turns out they are locating pins i guess haha.
the dealer drove mine around topless a lot and slapped all this shit on just good enough to drive around town...found 3 latches not closed so far, all doors were making that horrendous crunch noise and needed tightened also. scary these are the people i've gotta let install the tune
I've already got my can out, just gotta find a driver while I squirrel around the back lol. It's somewhere rear passenger, and I knew top was not quite right, so that's where I started. Sounds metallic though, and only on pretty rough jolts. I'll find it
Drove to south east Pennsylvania and picked up a set of fresh 2024 Bronco Raptor beadlock capable wheels/tires. Had to drive there with no spare in order to fit three inside, one on the spare carrier, and one on a POS Harbor Freight hitch basket which was strapped to the spare.
And of course I got a nail (if you could call it that, that mini-hammer looking son of a bitch) in one of the tires along the way. Thank God for thick tire blocks.
Anyway, I paid $2500 for the set of 5. Not bad given the tires are about $500 each when you add in tax/shipping, TPMS sensors at ~$50 each, and wheels are about $850 each.
I'll let some air out and store them in a cool, dark place until duty calls.
And of course I got a nail (if you could call it that, that mini-hammer looking son of a bitch) in one of the tires along the way. Thank God for thick tire blocks.
Anyway, I paid $2500 for the set of 5. Not bad given the tires are about $500 each when you add in tax/shipping, TPMS sensors at ~$50 each, and wheels are about $850 each.
I'll let some air out and store them in a cool, dark place until duty calls.
I know a bunch of people hate on BFG KO2's...but I've ran multiple sets with zero complaints. (Every nail I got in a 10ply held air perfectly until pulled)
I'm a little surprised you were able to fit 3 inside!
Are you going to keep a summer set pristine & swap on the other for winter? But those guys must not be fun to handle... (125lbs each...?)
Speaking of winter maintenance...Do you treat your vehicles? (Krown/Fluid Film/ Wool Wax?) I HATE the mess it makes...but I can't stand rust either...
Will you actually feel a power improvement with larger intercooler? Do Braptors suffer from heat soak?
I'm a little surprised you were able to fit 3 inside!
Are you going to keep a summer set pristine & swap on the other for winter? But those guys must not be fun to handle... (125lbs each...?)
Speaking of winter maintenance...Do you treat your vehicles? (Krown/Fluid Film/ Wool Wax?) I HATE the mess it makes...but I can't stand rust either...
Will you actually feel a power improvement with larger intercooler? Do Braptors suffer from heat soak?
So Ford does this shit in OASIS once you load one of Ford Performance's tunes. I bought the FP tune because it maintains a large portion of your warranty. So to see that they do this kind of pisses me off. It pretty much sets the tone for rejection before any potential warranty claim is even considered. It only populated recently with respect to my Bronco/VIN.
Cobb stuff is no joke.
This need to be more common knowledge to people considering the FP tunes. I mean one of the big draws for a lot of people is keeping some warranty.
Get your panties out of a wad haha
They throw that on there primarily so if there is an module update recall, TSB, etc..that the service department sees that this vehicle has an FP tune on it and to use a seperate file to update it.
No sweat, I promise. This isn't an attempt to void anyone's warranty.
When I see WARNING!! WARNING!! WARNING!! WARNING!! in red followed by "FP parts installed" it definitely constitutes panty wadding. It could have just said "FP calibration installed, do not overwrite." Regardless, the tune has been great. Kudos to whoever did the calibration.
even then it's questionable if they're anything like "professional" drivers
I got started on the latest mod(s), swapping in a Cobb intercooler along with a charge pipe from K&N. For anyone that doesn't know, the charge pipe runs from the intercooler and up to the throttle body. The idea is increased cooling capacity via a larger heat exchanger along with a larger diameter pathway to the throttle body. The FP tune allows for more boost and I didn't want the engine to be held back due to thermal inefficiency when under duress.
Again, here be the Cobb bad boy.
To be clear, I missed something but got lucky. I watched a few Braptor IC installs and pretty much all of them had you removing the front bumper and shitcanning the front louvers. I then noticed something...the body of my Cobb IC was further rearward (relative to the mounting pins) than the Whipple IC (for example). Cobb held the front face of the IC in the exact same location as stock and added the increased section to the rear. They also kept the pipe connections in the same place. So while I can't retain the rear flap assembly, everything else is in the stock location. Huge relief, as I was concerned that the K&N pipe might be pushed rearward and into the engine if the pipe attachment points were moved back. Hopefully that made sense.
Anyway, back to the mod. No need to raise the truck or remove the front bumper. I got started by removing the front bash plate followed by the IC brackets. The IC assembly held itself in place until I undid all the pipe connections. The IC and flaps combined were light as heck.
Here you can see how each neck is at the same elevation, stock on left with flap assembly still attached, and at right is the Cobb with its much increased core thickness and end tank size.
It was easy as pie to hold the Cobb IC in place while bolting the brackets at each end, one at a time. Fitment was perfect. What a nice piece of hardware.
I then got started removing the factory charge pipe (it is two halves actually) and hardware up top.
Truth be told, the factory charge pipe isn't bad. It consists of a rubber elbow down below (much like a radiator hose) which then is coupled to a polymer upper half. You can see where the restriction is, in the middle where it necks up in a cone fashion.
Factory is up top, K&N on bottom.
I like the factory rubber hose for flex and prefer the polymer upper for better sound attenuation and heat rejection as well but the aftermarket is big on using aluminum tube so there you have it. By the way, the K&N pipes were silver when I got them. I don't want any attention (they have no CARB EO) so I scuffed them and painted them with a high temp satin black in an attempt to be a close match the factory hardware you see running everywhere on these engines.
I snapped the bottom of the charge pipe in place at the IC connection and tightened up the coupled joint in the middle and then secured the connection at the throttle body. I then swapped the factory sensors/hoses onto the new charge pipe as well. I think it came out like I wanted it. I did a final inspection and fired it up in the garage. I gotta say...the Borla exhaust, Ford Performance tune, along with the new cool side air charge hardware has created one heck of a good sound and I am by no means a fan of twin turbo V6 engines. Or wasn't anyway.
Again, here be the Cobb bad boy.
To be clear, I missed something but got lucky. I watched a few Braptor IC installs and pretty much all of them had you removing the front bumper and shitcanning the front louvers. I then noticed something...the body of my Cobb IC was further rearward (relative to the mounting pins) than the Whipple IC (for example). Cobb held the front face of the IC in the exact same location as stock and added the increased section to the rear. They also kept the pipe connections in the same place. So while I can't retain the rear flap assembly, everything else is in the stock location. Huge relief, as I was concerned that the K&N pipe might be pushed rearward and into the engine if the pipe attachment points were moved back. Hopefully that made sense.
Anyway, back to the mod. No need to raise the truck or remove the front bumper. I got started by removing the front bash plate followed by the IC brackets. The IC assembly held itself in place until I undid all the pipe connections. The IC and flaps combined were light as heck.
Here you can see how each neck is at the same elevation, stock on left with flap assembly still attached, and at right is the Cobb with its much increased core thickness and end tank size.
It was easy as pie to hold the Cobb IC in place while bolting the brackets at each end, one at a time. Fitment was perfect. What a nice piece of hardware.
I then got started removing the factory charge pipe (it is two halves actually) and hardware up top.
Truth be told, the factory charge pipe isn't bad. It consists of a rubber elbow down below (much like a radiator hose) which then is coupled to a polymer upper half. You can see where the restriction is, in the middle where it necks up in a cone fashion.
Factory is up top, K&N on bottom.
I like the factory rubber hose for flex and prefer the polymer upper for better sound attenuation and heat rejection as well but the aftermarket is big on using aluminum tube so there you have it. By the way, the K&N pipes were silver when I got them. I don't want any attention (they have no CARB EO) so I scuffed them and painted them with a high temp satin black in an attempt to be a close match the factory hardware you see running everywhere on these engines.
I snapped the bottom of the charge pipe in place at the IC connection and tightened up the coupled joint in the middle and then secured the connection at the throttle body. I then swapped the factory sensors/hoses onto the new charge pipe as well. I think it came out like I wanted it. I did a final inspection and fired it up in the garage. I gotta say...the Borla exhaust, Ford Performance tune, along with the new cool side air charge hardware has created one heck of a good sound and I am by no means a fan of twin turbo V6 engines. Or wasn't anyway.
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