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Air conditioning experts in here please
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<blockquote data-quote="iamtheshaner" data-source="post: 14131771" data-attributes="member: 157055"><p>DSG makes a good point - the oil capacity spec is for the entire system. Your accumulator and heat exchangers will collect a huge majority of the lube oil. The general rule of thumb when it comes to servicing individual components is to replace only the amount of oil drained from the system (and the serviced components) plus an ounce or so with the understanding that you aren't realistically going to get ALL the oil out of them. If you simply replaced some o rings, lost a little oil in the process and refilled the system with the capacity spec - you are most certainly overfilled with oil.</p><p></p><p>Furthermore, if you added all of your oil to the compressor you need to turn it by hand a few times before you run the engine to confirm it won't hydrolock.</p><p></p><p>Too much lube oil is a bad thing. It negatively affects the performance and it could result in catastrophic failure because liquid cannot be compressed. Adding refer to the high or the low side is rarely an issue because it's all a vapor at normal static pressures.</p><p></p><p>DO NOT, under ANY circumstances use ANYTHING other than pure, unadulterated (no conditioners, sealers, improvers) R134a. The leak sealers in almost any brand of refer are horribly hazardous to ALL A/C servicing equipment. I have a $100 kit I use to test for these sealers and I send any job with this crap in their system down the road. It's garbage and it will contaminate every piece of equipment that ever touches your vehicle.</p><p></p><p>In regards to how to get the proper charge.....</p><p></p><p>Using cans from a part store is a guess. 1) you won't get all the refer out of all the cans unless you heat them, which is dangerous and 2) almost all the cans they sell have the garbage you don't want in them. If you have a gauge set, you can just keep charging it until your static pressures are equal to ambient temperatures. A fully charged R134a system will have static pressures of about 75psi in a 75 degree environment. Slightly undercharging will give you colder vent temps especially on a o-tube system but the compressor cycle times will be pretty short and this will eventually cause the clutch and/or coil to fail sooner.</p><p></p><p>Charging and filling oil is ideally done at the accumulator because the suction hose at the bottom of it has a metered orifice which will regulate the amount of oil allowed to enter the compressor. Because the refer is the vehicle for the oil, it (in a perfect scenario) will all collect at the accumulator like a reservoir and the orifice takes care of volume distribution. Adding oil anywhere else requires the refer to cycle it back to the accumulator and can be hard on the compressor and o tube if it's over capacity or collected in the high side trying to make it's way to the accumulator through the o tube along with a bunch of refer....</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="iamtheshaner, post: 14131771, member: 157055"] DSG makes a good point - the oil capacity spec is for the entire system. Your accumulator and heat exchangers will collect a huge majority of the lube oil. The general rule of thumb when it comes to servicing individual components is to replace only the amount of oil drained from the system (and the serviced components) plus an ounce or so with the understanding that you aren't realistically going to get ALL the oil out of them. If you simply replaced some o rings, lost a little oil in the process and refilled the system with the capacity spec - you are most certainly overfilled with oil. Furthermore, if you added all of your oil to the compressor you need to turn it by hand a few times before you run the engine to confirm it won't hydrolock. Too much lube oil is a bad thing. It negatively affects the performance and it could result in catastrophic failure because liquid cannot be compressed. Adding refer to the high or the low side is rarely an issue because it's all a vapor at normal static pressures. DO NOT, under ANY circumstances use ANYTHING other than pure, unadulterated (no conditioners, sealers, improvers) R134a. The leak sealers in almost any brand of refer are horribly hazardous to ALL A/C servicing equipment. I have a $100 kit I use to test for these sealers and I send any job with this crap in their system down the road. It's garbage and it will contaminate every piece of equipment that ever touches your vehicle. In regards to how to get the proper charge..... Using cans from a part store is a guess. 1) you won't get all the refer out of all the cans unless you heat them, which is dangerous and 2) almost all the cans they sell have the garbage you don't want in them. If you have a gauge set, you can just keep charging it until your static pressures are equal to ambient temperatures. A fully charged R134a system will have static pressures of about 75psi in a 75 degree environment. Slightly undercharging will give you colder vent temps especially on a o-tube system but the compressor cycle times will be pretty short and this will eventually cause the clutch and/or coil to fail sooner. Charging and filling oil is ideally done at the accumulator because the suction hose at the bottom of it has a metered orifice which will regulate the amount of oil allowed to enter the compressor. Because the refer is the vehicle for the oil, it (in a perfect scenario) will all collect at the accumulator like a reservoir and the orifice takes care of volume distribution. Adding oil anywhere else requires the refer to cycle it back to the accumulator and can be hard on the compressor and o tube if it's over capacity or collected in the high side trying to make it's way to the accumulator through the o tube along with a bunch of refer.... [/QUOTE]
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