Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump rewire dilemma

[flowgoode]

So I'm upgrading my fuel system. I went with an in-tank Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump. #11142.

In the instructions is shows a diagram for 10 gauge wire to power the pump and for ground of the pump.

I have a Boost-A-Pump installed and a dedicated power wire ran to it from the battery to a 30amp relay setup. The wire coming from the boost-a-pump is a 10ga. wire. So I connected on more 10ga. wire and went all the way to the fuel pump connector at the fuel tank/hat connector, as illustrated in the image below:

I know this is not a mustang fuel tank picture, but did the same rewiring job.

Also, if Aeromotive recommends 10ga wire, then why do they supply the connector for the fuel pump to hook to the fuel hat with a harness that is definitely NOT 10ga. wire?

Here is a chart for reference:

And a picture to show how it would be a pain in the @$$ to get 10ga. wire all the way into the tank to the pump:

I guess my question is, do I need to somehow get through the fuel tank and go all the way to the pump with 10ga. wire or is the way I did it fine?

 

[Bite u]

In for results... As I just received one for my car? Roughly how long is your pump... When i pulled it outta the box it just seemed extremely small.

 

[flowgoode]

It is the same size as a stock and/or walboro gss340 255lph pump. Fits right in the stock fuel hat.

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[flowgoode]

A few more pictures to show the wiring:

Heavy gauge wiring to relay then Boost-a-pump

Blue 10ga. wire from boost-a-pump to the pump connector

The fuel hat connector and you can see where I ran the ground to for the negative side

 

[flowgoode]

Anyone have any input on this? Someone on facebook told me "The small gauge wire will be fine since it is only 6 inches it will handle the same amount of current."

 

[laddanator]

Anyone have any input on this? Someone on facebook told me "The small gauge wire will be fine since it is only 6 inches it will handle the same amount of current."

I'm an electrician also and I don't want to tell you wrong but I can promise you if you use 10 gauge up to a small wire that's only 6inchs long, you will be fine. You do lose amperage over a long run but it's measured in footage. 6 inches you may lose a tiny, tiny, tiny bit of amps or current the 10 gauge is supplying. Now if it was 6inches of 10 and 14ft of the smaller wire, I would say no way!

Let me see if I'm clear. The way you have this thing wired up, does the pump have power all the time when the key is on? You bypassed the factory harness that supplies the power to the pump?

 

[flowgoode]

I'm an electrician also and I don't want to tell you wrong but I can promise you if you use 10 gauge up to a small wire that's only 6inchs long, you will be fine. You do lose amperage over a long run but it's measured in footage. 6 inches you may lose a tiny, tiny, tiny bit of amps or current the 10 gauge is supplying. Now if it was 6inches of 10 and 14ft of the smaller wire, I would say no way!

Let me see if I'm clear. The way you have this thing wired up, does the pump have power all the time when the key is on? You bypassed the factory harness that supplies the power to the pump?

The car still uses the stock relay to tell the pump to turn on, but the boost-a-pump (BAP) intercepts the signal before it gets to the pump. The BAP is powered by an 8ga fused wire from the battery to a 30amp relay that intercepts the ecu-to-pump signal, then to the BAP. Then it goes from the BAP via 10ga wire to the pump.

Before the new pump and lines, the BAP used to tie back into the stock wiring harness to power the pump.