Aeroforce W/B Help

mu22stang

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I wired my Aeroforce W/B last week, and had the bung welded to the H-pipe yesterday. After calibrating and putting in a slope of 2 and intercept of 10 in my Aeroforce Interceptor gauge, I am getting a constant reading of 10 for A/F. Now I figured this would be a voltage issue, but maybe some of you can check my work and see what you think.

From the Power Harness on the W/B...

Red wire soldered to an Add-a-Circuit in slot #1 (cig lighter) for the constant ON

White wire soldered to an Add-a-Circuit in slot #5 (TC) for the ignition ON.

Ground soldered to a ring terminal and on the front driver side bolt on the circuit board. I also tried going directly to the negative terminal on the battery.

From the Inteceptor Gauge...

Green wire (Analog 1) from the Gauge Analog Harness soldered to the yellow wire (slot 1) on the Gauge Harness coming from the W/B box.


What am I missing? I'm pretty sure the Add-a-circuits are working because the cig lighters still work with the car OFF, and the TC still works with the car ON. The ground to the battery or the circuit board should both be good as well. I appreciate any input :beer:
 
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20psirabbit

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if you can't confirm the ground is good, why don't you meter it out and see? just get a meter and test for continuity between your ground and a known good ground.
 

03cobra#694

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As we posted before,the ground is a major issue.I ran mine direct to the battery and it made a world of difference on how fast it responded.
 

mu22stang

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I just ran the ground wire directly to the battery to no avail...What else could this be?
 

03cobra#694

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''Red wire soldered to an Add-a-Circuit in slot #1 (cig lighter) for the constant ON''
Just curious as to why this needs constant power?BTW,I don`t have the Aeroforce set-up.
 

mu22stang

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The Aeroforce W/B requires a constant ON, ignition ON, and ground for power.
 

mu22stang

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Gotcha,but wouldn`t that mean a constant draw on the battery?

Beats me. I figured I'd do as I'm told because this is my first electrical undertaking and that's how the install instruction read. I wish some guys that have installed this could shed some light. Where's forcefedjunkie when you need him? :poke:
 

03cobra#694

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Kinda vague huh!Is there and did you calibrate it?

Try this.Take the sensor out,turn the key on till it heats up(should settle at approx.14.7) and hold a propane torch or butane lighter on the sensor(unlite)the guage should read full rich(10.)
 

mu22stang

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Well, I live in an apartment complex and we get fined if we work on our cars. It's pretty lame, I know. I have to be careful how many tools I have out at any given time so I can play off the fact that I am doing some sort of work.
 

venom one

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Bump for you as I have an Aeroforce Wideband on my shelf that I'm going to install soon and I'd like to see what's going on with your situation...:beer:
 

mu22stang

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FIXED! When I said I was electrically challenged, I meant it. I had no idea that when using an Add-a-circuit, it's necessary to put the original fuse in one slot, and the new fuse in the other slot. I know, I know, ridiculously elementary, but I don't care because I figured it out and it's done! These things really are easy to install - if you know how to find a 12V constant ON, 12V ignition ON, a good ground, and/or know how to use an Add-a-circuit.
 

mu22stang

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Yeah, I grabbed a multimeter from work and was getting nothing from either positive wire. I don't know why, but it finally dawned on me what was going on. I should've known...Add-a-CIRCUIT.
 

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