advice on how to proceed - Built 4v or coyote swap

Andy_s273

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Long story short. Ive had i started the idea of building a 4v for boost about 7 years ago before life got busy. Fast forward to now, and cost for a coyote drivetrain have really went down and the support for the swap is growing faster a surprising rate.

What i have now:

The car is a daily driven 2001 Gt that i want to park to restore/upgrade.
I have a complete 99 cobra motor and $1300 with the builder right now, we haven't done anything in 7 years so i think its time to decide now between the 4v or a coyote. (1st or 2nd gen coyote would be ok)

In other words, I need to decide on continuing with this build, pulling out completely, or transfer the funds and sell the 4v in favor of another project.

Cost to finish the build is an additional 4500, with 2700 to install. Planning on keeping it manual and upgrading to a 6 speed.

Goals:
Car would be driven half the year, with maybe a track run or two. I haven't thought about this in a very long time. Maybe im not asking myself the right questions anymore. Im looking for some guidance or advice. I would say my budget would extend as far as it needs to within reason, as in not spending more than the cost of a coyote powered mustang, which is still about 25k+ in my area.
 

robvas

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Coyote will be an easy what 100hp more than a 32v 4.6?

HOT ROD magazine had a gen III with cams make almost 600 on an engine dyno. Sick.
 

Saleen498

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Coyote 100%. hp per dollar, it will be less expensive, more reliable at the same power range and it looks cleaner under the hood. The downside is the sound. The 4v will sound much better with the firing order.

02 Saleen #498
03 Cobra #5467
15 GT PP #wgaf
 

01yellercobra

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Do some deep research into the Coyote swap first. I was on another forum where a couple guys did the swap and both said it was way more expensive than expected.

Personally I'd build a 4v and boost it. But that's just me.
 

shurur

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Yup...IIRC coyote needs the whole ecu and harness swap.

I really would post this Q up on the nasvt FB page.

I think you can do just as well with a teksid/wap/newmak block for cheaper...even without stroking it to a 5.0 or going bb stroker..but just cammed and LT...and the c heads..any c heads can be made to flow...the exhaust valves just need to be opened up to 90% if the intakes.

Now if you go FI..then that may be different ...but why spend the money on the new 5.0 just to go FI
later?..that would be just another excuse to drop unnecessary coinage.

BTW: The new 5.0 is essentially cammed and has midlengths already..so it is not even an across the board comparison with a tesksid with oem cams and oem logs..
 

robvas

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Part selection and availability and pricing for 5.0 vs 4.6? Seems like the Coyote has a huge advantage
 

01yellercobra

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Part selection and availability and pricing for 5.0 vs 4.6? Seems like the Coyote has a huge advantage
What parts are you referring to? There's still plenty of support for the 4.6. And depending on power goals the 4.6 block might be a better starting point.
 

CobraSam

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Gen 2 coyote if you can afford it. That’s what I’d do.
Keep in mind, either way you go, it’s going to cost you more than you think. Probably a lot more. Ask me how I know.
 

5.0 Hatch

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If you're going with forced induction, I see no reason to move to a coyote over a built 4v. Coyote swap will get expensive fast. If you have to have a coyote, it's probably cheaper just to pick up a high mileage 2011 with a 6r80 and have a much better platform from the get go.
 

Andy_s273

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Thanks all for taking the time to respond,

Yeah I keep telling myself that the coyote is a better platform but these types of swaps will always nickel and dime you along the way, unexpected items and what not...

I think used car prices are super inflated so maybe getting a coyote mustang maybe the better route soon.

Im leaning toward taying with the original plan seems ok for now unless some crazy deal falls into my lap. Im thinking i went overkill with the build too, I think its rated for 1000 hp, I want to revisit the build sheet and see if its necessary for what i want. Ill share that here soon and hopefully some builders here can really help me dial in on the cost.
 

Andy_s273

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Heres my cost breakdown on the build

Manley forged pistons -11cc dish (around 9.3:1)------ $795

Forged H beam rods, ARP 2000 ----- $725

Main and rod bearings -----$300

piston rings -----$290

ARP side bolts ---- $80

Ford Racing oil pump ---- $130

Head changing kit ----- $130

4v main studs ----- $270

ARP head studs --- $400

all machine work labor ----- $900

Build engine labor ----- $1500

this will be on a 99 cobra engine
 

Andy_s273

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Leaning harder and harder toward the coyote swap guys. the parts farm has a gen2-6speed pullout for like 7k. Im beginning to think anything close to 500hp is crazy to have on the street, I've only ever driven the stock 2v 4.6. The reliability and power of the stock coyote keeps luring me in. It could even stay on 87 octane lol.


I may just sell the cobra motor in favor of the swap, and the funds i have i could put toward the install. so for the time being, Im wanting to upgrade things that i would use whether i go coyote or not. Im thinking suspension, brakes, k member
 

01yellercobra

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Crazy is relative. I'm over 650 now and have tons of fun with it. But then I've also done a bunch of suspension work to make it handle.

I'm probably one of the few that isn't all that into the Coyote swaps. I managed to talk a buddy out of Coyote swapping his fox. He's going single turbo 331 now.

As we say: your money, your car, your choice.
 

blubyu87gt

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My biggest reason for going with the gen3 Coyote in my Mystic Cobra was repeatability. Basically, when (not if) I pop the motor I can just swap it out with another junkyard unit. Building another 4v takes time, money, and effort with a bunch of 3rd party issues (machine shop/engine builder if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself) that I don't care to deal with.

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01yellercobra

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But if you build it for your goals the first time you don't have to plan for making another trip to the junk yard.

Swap engines enough times and you're into the cost of a built engine.
 

stang910

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So for only 500 rwhp why not do piston and rods in the 2V and just supercharge or turbo it? The 4V swap with FI isn't really worth the effort at less than 500 rwhp.

I would only do the coyote swap if your dead set on a N/A setup, but if your doing an engine swap to build a N/A car I can think of a better and probably cheaper N/A setup.
 

Andy_s273

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So for only 500 rwhp why not do piston and rods in the 2V and just supercharge or turbo it? The 4V swap with FI isn't really worth the effort at less than 500 rwhp.

I would only do the coyote swap if your dead set on a N/A setup, but if your doing an engine swap to build a N/A car I can think of a better and probably cheaper N/A setup.

thanks for taking the time to respond. I'm open to to having a discussion on this if you have the time.
 

96GT226410

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I went back and forth with this and after pricing out a built 4V with boost I went with a Coyote. I'm $9,500 into my swap and I think I have everything I need besides an intake and when I'm done it'll need to get tuned ($500 - $800). I went with a Gen. 2 F150 engine for my swap. It's up to Mustang spec (except the 0.5 lower CR) and I have a 2018 intake manifold and BBK swap long tubes. I've seen similar cars make 420 - 430 RWHP. It's a lot of money to do a Coyote swap, and I'm hoping it'll all be worth it.

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