Adding a 2.9l Whipple to my setup, have some questions

mustangmike01

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My setup,keep in mind this was all done back in 06. The setup has 24k on it. Engine has a oem block, stock pan, JE pistons with stock compression, all ARP fasteners were used, Manley rods, used the stock crank that was micro polished chamfered oil holes and balanced to a half a gram. Oem oil pump gears. The heads were ported and the lower intake to match. 5 degree angle valves, Comp valve springs and retainers, stock cams. Stock timing gears, chain and retainers. Head cooling mod, bigger expansion tanks, fluidyne radiator stock fans, 170 degree thermostat, oem water pump, fluidyne heat exchanger, no fans, oem pump. Mac longtubes, bbk off road H with custom side exhaust. 4 lb. lower old one no rings like the new metco kits know. Metco idler kit, with whipple adjusting idler. A 2.80 RR sc pulley. Eaton sc, steig ported stage 4. J2 alternator. NGK one set colder plugs. Jlt Ram intake, sct 2500 90mm maf. Accufab single blade TB. Stock fuel rails, 60 lb injectors tie into a aeromotive filter with -8 fuel line from the tank. DivisionX gen2 fuel hat, using the oem fuel line as a return. Two ford GT super car pumps (no E85).A custom FPDM wire harness with two FPDMs. When she was tuned back in 07, the fuel duty was only at 17%.

New mods looking at added a 2.9l gene 2 whipped 3.5 upper pulley, Metco lower kit with oem ring and 4lb ring. Stewart components water pump, Upgraded VMP intercooler pump and plug and play harness, VMP by PWR 03-04 Cobra "Terminator" intercooler core upgrade. MMR Coolant Cross Over Delete with Lines & Filler, J2 Fabrication 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra Flow Mod.

Plan is to run the setup on 93 oct first. And after that go with new injectors and fuel pumps for e85 and spin the sc with a 3.2 upper and a 4 lb lower. The boost should be around 25 psi if my calculations are right. Not sure what max psi is.

Questions, the whipple instruction say you can use the oem fuel rails, I thought you could not because they would not clear?

I know my fuel system will be fine on 93 oct but my concern is the mass air meter.

All those new cooling mods, has anybody done them and seen differences? I think I need all those mods from what I have read on the web. But I’m not 100% sure. It all has to come off to put the Whipple on so, this is the time to change them out, is my thinking. The oem water pump is leaking so I need to replace it.

I’m not sure with the oem timing hardware and oem oil pump gears how hard I should push it or what I should limit the power too.

The only thing I bought is the whipple, like new 3k on it.

thanks
 

01yellercobra

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I would run whatever injectors you plan on running with E85 from the beginning. I've been running ID1050's on pump gas with no problems.

If you have a return line then you're no longer running a returnless system and FPDC doesn't matter. It should be 100% all the time. But that makes me wonder why you have dual FPDM's if you're running a return style set up.

I think the rails clearing depends on if you're running a standard or Crusher inlet. Someone on here installed a gen 4 crusher and needed aftermarket rails. Eyeballing my standard inlet I think the stock rails would work. My Fore rails are close once everything is tightened down.

As for cooling it seems every little thing helps.
 
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olympic

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The 4lb lower and 3.5 upper will get you around 21-22lb which is likely too much for 93. Stock lower would be about right.
 

NateDogg

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Agree with the advice to replace the injectors now.. Reason being, with the whipple inlet, you will have to remove the blower to change the injectors.. Not a huge deal, but a PITA... The stock fuel rails will work with the standard inlet and i know cars are making upwards to 800 RWHP with them. I made 700~ with them on a gen 2 2.9 and e85.

I have upgraded to the EMP water pump just because I had everything apart already.. No issues.

I've also done the j2FAB flow mod and rear mount 7 gal tank. 1 inch lines and afco heat exchanger. Good results in florida heat during pulls..

Oil pump gears are a very good ideal.

I currently run a 3.2 upper and stock lower on a gen 4 2.9 standard inlet on 93.... Not sure what I make or boost because it is street tuned... but it moves out..
 

01yellercobra

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Agree with the advice to replace the injectors now.. Reason being, with the whipple inlet, you will have to remove the blower to change the injectors.. Not a huge deal, but a PITA... The stock fuel rails will work with the standard inlet and i know cars are making upwards to 800 RWHP with them. I made 700~ with them on a gen 2 2.9 and e85.

I have upgraded to the EMP water pump just because I had everything apart already.. No issues.

I've also done the j2FAB flow mod and rear mount 7 gal tank. 1 inch lines and afco heat exchanger. Good results in florida heat during pulls..

Oil pump gears are a very good ideal.

I currently run a 3.2 upper and stock lower on a gen 4 2.9 standard inlet on 93.... Not sure what I make or boost because it is street tuned... but it moves out..

It might be worth at least getting a boost overlay. With the the 3.5 I'm at 18psi. I have a 3.25" sitting on her shelf for future use.
 

gtmustang00

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I was at a 710rwhp for many years with 2.9 gen 2 whipple. gt pumps, id100's. 2 fpdm's. Was a great set up. 3.5 upper 4lb lower. I added some torco.
 

mustangmike01

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Hey guys sorry for the delay. I did some pocking around with the fuel system and I was wrong. I have -8 fuel line from the hat to the filter, an adapter from the filter to the oem rail. that's it. no fitting bends either. No return line. Long story short the guy that built the motor installed it and had it tuned so it was warrantied.

I was thinking of the 465 pumps and ID1050's

I know the oil pump gears are needed on the coyote motors but billet gears are also needed on are motors? at what power level? should any of the trimming components be changed, like the plastic guide?

okay on the fuel rains

93 oct plus a fulll can of torco? 16 or 32 oz?

So I went down to his shop (engine builder) and talked to him yesterday and the Manley rods are the oem not the better ones. He pulled out the build paper work on my motor. He said the motor was built for 700 crank horsepower not 750 wheel horsepower. He also said with that much boost 25psi the valves need to be adjusted for that boost level. Plus the valve train needs to rebuilt every 25k because of the valve job that was done. and I'm almost there.

I know the weak point was the pistons but with the oem rods, it makes me think to keep the boost maxed at 22 psi.

So know I'm all conflicted on what to do.
 

01yellercobra

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Did you get copies of the paperwork? I'm no engine guru, but it sounds like he was blowing a lot of smoke. Or there was some miscommunication. 700 crank horsepower would be a downgrade from stock. Think about all the guys on here making 700rwhp on a stock unopened engine.

The valves don't know what boost level is going through them. Maybe he meant the springs, but if the valve train was built correctly they shouldn't need to be changed. I do remember having to swap valve springs on a buddies 2v, but that was because he was going turbo and apparently valve float is possible with the back pressure.

IMO billet oil pump gears are always a good idea. Especially if the engine is already apart. Otherwise just keep the RPM's in check and don't constantly bounce off the rev limiter.
 

mustangmike01

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Yes I know these engines can take 700 to 800 all day that I have seen on here. I thinki hes playing it save and thinking of engine life and longevity. He said any v8 can make 1000hp but the question is how may pulls will it last before a rod says hello.

I ment valve springs.

He did say it's time to replace the valve springs. I did look around and with the valve I have it seems right. Its a job I can't do and its laber crazy. Steps he told me unbolt the cam gears from cam and leave behind and remove cams from head. do one cylinder at a time. Bring piston to top dead center then pressurize the cylinder through spark plug hole to prevent valve from dropping . Them compress valve spring and remove keepers . Remove valve spring and replace . It's super time consuming buy that's how it's done. He can do it in the car an without removing the blower and front of the motor.

Now I'm thinking should I do some cams

I have hit the rev limiter three time with this motor. To me nothing comes good about dancing on the rev limiter.
 

01yellercobra

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What springs did he use? These engines aren't race engines. They don't have cams with a ton of lift and run crazy spring pressures. There shouldn't be a need to rebuild the valve train every 25k.

You can post part numbers here and someone can give you a full run down on the parts he used. Or you can get a second opinion at the very least. Not everyone understands how a mod motor works. They think what they've done for the last 50 years to a small block chevy still applies.
 

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