And we have juice. i'll paint the battery tray later. the hot wire goes through the firewall with a grommet (of course) just below where the factory harness comes through. I tried to shove it through the factory grommet but this ended up being a lot cleaner. from underneath you'd never know the battery was in the back and when i wrap the red wire like the rest it won't even be evident from the engine bay.
97 Cobra Restomod - Snow Pony
- Thread starter Makobra
- Start date
Looking really good man.
The dedication to the little stuff is impressive
Sent from my SM-G973W using the svtperformance.com mobile app
The dedication to the little stuff is impressive
Sent from my SM-G973W using the svtperformance.com mobile app
This is awesome to watch. You're doing some great work!
Sent from my SM-G970U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Sent from my SM-G970U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Dunno if you guys remember but when i bought the car it came with an SCT that the owner wasn't quite sure of its status, nor the car's PCM status. anyhow, finally got power to the computer and found out we're good to go!
The fuel system is all kosher except for the injectors so I ordered a new ford racing set from LMR and my oil filter adapter was leaking coolant through a bolt so i'm hoping a good cleaning of gasket surfaces will take care of that.
still haven't turned the motor over via the key but we are really close. just making sure everything is as good as it can be for that.
The fuel system is all kosher except for the injectors so I ordered a new ford racing set from LMR and my oil filter adapter was leaking coolant through a bolt so i'm hoping a good cleaning of gasket surfaces will take care of that.
still haven't turned the motor over via the key but we are really close. just making sure everything is as good as it can be for that.
That's good news, about the computer. As far as the oil cooler, is it leaking from the center stud, that you screw the oil filter onto? If so, you may need to pry out the core, and replace the three big o-rings inside. I can PM you a couple pictures of what it looks like in there, if you want. (I don't want to gum up your thread with unrelated pictures). Anyhow, congrats on the progress.
Sent from my SM-G970U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Sent from my SM-G970U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I think this one is from a GT so no cooler, its all one piece. ITs leaking form the bolt in the back even though i've used 400 grit and scuff pads to really clean the surfaces very well and I'm torqing the bolts down evenly. the gasket is new.
its just a steady stream out of this hole. I scraped some RTV off the hole and I'm wondering if this is why. i'm about to just black RTV both sides of the gasket and if that doesn't stop the leak sell it to some goth kid who wants a demon possessed car.
its just a steady stream out of this hole. I scraped some RTV off the hole and I'm wondering if this is why. i'm about to just black RTV both sides of the gasket and if that doesn't stop the leak sell it to some goth kid who wants a demon possessed car.
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Gotcha. Well, hopefully you can get it to cooperate. Good luck!I think this one is from a GT so no cooler, its all one piece. ITs leaking form the bolt in the back even though i've used 400 grit and scuff pads to really clean the surfaces very well and I'm torqing the bolts down evenly. the gasket is new.
its just a steady stream out of this hole. I scraped some RTV off the hole and I'm wondering if this is why. i'm about to just black RTV both sides of the gasket and if that doesn't stop the leak sell it to some goth kid who wants a demon possessed car.
View attachment 1640882
View attachment 1640883
Sent from my SM-G970U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
solved the problem. either i ordered the wrong one or somebody sent me the wrong one or felpro manufactured the wrong one.
Mine. notice how the top part of the blue ring is dead center to the bolt hole?
notice how on this one the blue ring is at the top of the washer for the bolt hole.
I sure am learning a lot about these cars
edit, just checked my amazon history and its a mach 1 gasket. apparently I needed a GT gasket since its a WAP block and a GT adapter.
man this frankencobra is driving me nuts LOL
Mine. notice how the top part of the blue ring is dead center to the bolt hole?
notice how on this one the blue ring is at the top of the washer for the bolt hole.
I sure am learning a lot about these cars
edit, just checked my amazon history and its a mach 1 gasket. apparently I needed a GT gasket since its a WAP block and a GT adapter.
man this frankencobra is driving me nuts LOL
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Congrats on the first fire-up! Sounds good. Stop mark.....first drive!
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pretty sure the original fuel pump gave up the ghost so i get to use my handy dandy access panel. It works but only makes enough pressure to keep the engine running for about a minute or so then the fuel psi drops into the teens and engine cuts off.
It did cause me to catch a leak in my return line dripping on a muffler so that was fortunate. to diagnose this I hardwired the pump to the battery and just let it run for a minute and it demonstrated the exact behavior as with the car running. I checked the tank for trash and it looks quite clean, no sediment to speak of.
replacing it with a 255lph bbk unit (rebranded walbro pretty much) as well as the fuel sending unit cause my gauge isn't working and while it could be the cluster I might as well spend the 50 bucks and drop the tank while its in the bay. so after this you could conceivably bolt a super charger on, throw in some injectors and a tune, and safely double the power level its at currently. A nice option to have.
It did cause me to catch a leak in my return line dripping on a muffler so that was fortunate. to diagnose this I hardwired the pump to the battery and just let it run for a minute and it demonstrated the exact behavior as with the car running. I checked the tank for trash and it looks quite clean, no sediment to speak of.
replacing it with a 255lph bbk unit (rebranded walbro pretty much) as well as the fuel sending unit cause my gauge isn't working and while it could be the cluster I might as well spend the 50 bucks and drop the tank while its in the bay. so after this you could conceivably bolt a super charger on, throw in some injectors and a tune, and safely double the power level its at currently. A nice option to have.
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welp i finally figured out my coolant temp sender situation. I read in just about everywhere that its a 1 wire sender but traced this 2 wire pug back to the gauge and sure enough, once i jumped it that pegged the needle to hot. SO, once my fuel pump, sending unit, and new coolant reservoir get here I'll throw that stuff along with these bits in to finally, once and for all, get the engine where it needs to be for a first drive.
then its brakes and then its body work. we're almost in the home stretch gang!
left is my coolant reservoir to radiator adapter, right is my coolant temp sender that will screw into my MMR Y block which gets coolant returned to it from my MMR thermostat housing.
then its brakes and then its body work. we're almost in the home stretch gang!
left is my coolant reservoir to radiator adapter, right is my coolant temp sender that will screw into my MMR Y block which gets coolant returned to it from my MMR thermostat housing.
Just a suggestion since I've never had good luck with speed clips, you should look into getting a nut-sert tool. I've got one for my 65 project car and it's amazing. Never having to worry about stripped threads or sheet metal screws wallowing out their hole is a godsend.
Yeah I got one of those after I did this mod but I'm not gonna redo this setup since it works. rivnuts are the BOMB dude. I should've got mine long ago. excellent suggestion!
So the fuel pump I replaced was TOAST! the sock was toast, the check valve was toast, it wouldn't build pressure passed the teens for long, T O A S T TOAST. Did the sending unit while I had the tank out and while that did resolve ALL my fuel pressure issues the car still dies after a minute or so of idling after a cold start. cranks right back up but dies after a minute.
pretty sure I have an exhaust leak too but that isn't surprising since I didn't put any copper RTV on the h pipe/header flanges.
at the moment I suspect a vacuum leak since I reused the stock TB and upper plenum gaskets.
Actual build sheet so far
Parts / Platform / (gasket/seals)
DRIVETRAIN
forged rods 2012 Boss 302
forged pistons UNKNOWN
longblock 03 lincoln aviator 99 cobra
valve covers 03 lincoln aviator 99 cobra
cams 99 Cobra
intake manifold 03 Mustang Mach 1 99 cobra
ford racing 24lb injectors 99 Cobra 99 cobra
injector adapters 97 to 99 cobra
COP conversion 03 lincoln aviator 99 cobra
oil filter adapter 99 Mustang GT 03 Aviator/99 GT
aluminum driveshaft 99 cobra
Independent Rear Suspension 99 cobra 99 cobra
ford racing clutch 97 cobra
borg warner T45 trans 97 cobra 97 cobra
accessories (timing chain cover forward) 97 cobra
emissions garbage DELETED
BBK 255 LPH fuel pump 97 cobra 97 cobra
fuel sending unit 97 cobra 97 cobra
ford racing diff cover 99 cobra 99 cobra
ford racing Carbon clutch disks 99 cobra 99 cobra
ford racing 4.10 gears 99 cobra 99 cobra
Fuel lines 6AN fittings and lines
FAST fuel pressure regulator universal
aeromotive fuel rails 99 cobra
MMR inline thermostat housing universal Chevy 350 thermostat
MMR coolant crossover delete 97 cobra
radiator fan 99 cobra
Exhaust
JBA mid length headers 99 cobra 99 cobra
H pipe custom
Catback custom
Chassis
Team Z Through the floor SFC's 94-04 mustang
BC Racing BR coilover kit 03-04 cobra
MM delrin Control Arm bushings 99-04 cobra
MM Kmember 94-04 mustang
MM strut tower brace 99 cobra
Poly Subframe bushing kit 99-04 cobra
Poly Sway bar bushings 99-04 cobra
Poly Differential Mount Bushings 99-04 cobra
Electrical
Braille 21 battery universal
battery mount custom
Brakes
stainless lines 99 cobra
Interior
Seats universal
Corbeau sliders 94-04 mustang
pretty sure I have an exhaust leak too but that isn't surprising since I didn't put any copper RTV on the h pipe/header flanges.
at the moment I suspect a vacuum leak since I reused the stock TB and upper plenum gaskets.
Actual build sheet so far
Parts / Platform / (gasket/seals)
DRIVETRAIN
forged rods 2012 Boss 302
forged pistons UNKNOWN
longblock 03 lincoln aviator 99 cobra
valve covers 03 lincoln aviator 99 cobra
cams 99 Cobra
intake manifold 03 Mustang Mach 1 99 cobra
ford racing 24lb injectors 99 Cobra 99 cobra
injector adapters 97 to 99 cobra
COP conversion 03 lincoln aviator 99 cobra
oil filter adapter 99 Mustang GT 03 Aviator/99 GT
aluminum driveshaft 99 cobra
Independent Rear Suspension 99 cobra 99 cobra
ford racing clutch 97 cobra
borg warner T45 trans 97 cobra 97 cobra
accessories (timing chain cover forward) 97 cobra
emissions garbage DELETED
BBK 255 LPH fuel pump 97 cobra 97 cobra
fuel sending unit 97 cobra 97 cobra
ford racing diff cover 99 cobra 99 cobra
ford racing Carbon clutch disks 99 cobra 99 cobra
ford racing 4.10 gears 99 cobra 99 cobra
Fuel lines 6AN fittings and lines
FAST fuel pressure regulator universal
aeromotive fuel rails 99 cobra
MMR inline thermostat housing universal Chevy 350 thermostat
MMR coolant crossover delete 97 cobra
radiator fan 99 cobra
Exhaust
JBA mid length headers 99 cobra 99 cobra
H pipe custom
Catback custom
Chassis
Team Z Through the floor SFC's 94-04 mustang
BC Racing BR coilover kit 03-04 cobra
MM delrin Control Arm bushings 99-04 cobra
MM Kmember 94-04 mustang
MM strut tower brace 99 cobra
Poly Subframe bushing kit 99-04 cobra
Poly Sway bar bushings 99-04 cobra
Poly Differential Mount Bushings 99-04 cobra
Electrical
Braille 21 battery universal
battery mount custom
Brakes
stainless lines 99 cobra
Interior
Seats universal
Corbeau sliders 94-04 mustang
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okay party people here is the fix for my fuel pump shutting off after only a minute or so.
backstory: the previous owner killed the previous build by running a returnless fuel rail (mach 1) on this return style system.
I knew this when buying the car, got proper fuel rails, made a proper system, and even replaced all of the fuel pump, injectors, sender, the whole nine.
but apparently if you deadhead a fuel pump long enough on these cars it can take out this circuit which is in charge of monitoring voltage from the pump. so, not only did the cylinders get washed out causing piston slap but that particular circuit in the pcm was fragged.
last night we finally figured out exactly what the problem was; that circuit. so the fix? the relay just needed a ground so when we grounded out this one terminal for this one relay she ran exactly as she ought.
the fix was one wire. I didn't cut the old one, its taped up really well to the relay harness in case I ever actually replaced the PCM. if I do that all i'd need to do is revert back to stock and we're good to go.
UPDATE EDIT! Turns out I was wrong, dead wrong, I went to button things up and ground this green wire really well... car wouldn't start. why? because I was doing what the ECU was doing after a minute... this fuel pump relay is wried so that its always engaged and it exists only for the PCM to be able to turn the fuel pump off.
since I don't care about that AT ALL I think I may just delete the thing.
TLDR: if your fuel pump shuts off after only a minute just jump this relay and you can bypass the PCM cutting off the pump.
backstory: the previous owner killed the previous build by running a returnless fuel rail (mach 1) on this return style system.
I knew this when buying the car, got proper fuel rails, made a proper system, and even replaced all of the fuel pump, injectors, sender, the whole nine.
but apparently if you deadhead a fuel pump long enough on these cars it can take out this circuit which is in charge of monitoring voltage from the pump. so, not only did the cylinders get washed out causing piston slap but that particular circuit in the pcm was fragged.
last night we finally figured out exactly what the problem was; that circuit. so the fix? the relay just needed a ground so when we grounded out this one terminal for this one relay she ran exactly as she ought.
the fix was one wire. I didn't cut the old one, its taped up really well to the relay harness in case I ever actually replaced the PCM. if I do that all i'd need to do is revert back to stock and we're good to go.
UPDATE EDIT! Turns out I was wrong, dead wrong, I went to button things up and ground this green wire really well... car wouldn't start. why? because I was doing what the ECU was doing after a minute... this fuel pump relay is wried so that its always engaged and it exists only for the PCM to be able to turn the fuel pump off.
since I don't care about that AT ALL I think I may just delete the thing.
TLDR: if your fuel pump shuts off after only a minute just jump this relay and you can bypass the PCM cutting off the pump.
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