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96dreamer's Never Ending Build Thread
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<blockquote data-quote="96dreamer" data-source="post: 16913080" data-attributes="member: 52560"><p>Story time.</p><p></p><p> After getting the dash in I was replacing the dome lights with leds and noticed they were not working. Traced it back to a blown #8 interior fuse. Replaced it and it immediately blew so I knew something was up. I spent entirely to long diagnosing the issue and ended up finding the wire to the glove box light pinched. After finally finding and correcting the issue, I replaced the fuse and it didn't pop. Unfortunately the keyless entry did nothing unless the doors were opened and the headlight knob was turned on, then everything seemed to work normally. With the headlight knob off the door lock/unlock buttons turned on the exterior running lights and the keyless entry did nothing. I tried figuring out wtf was going on for a good 3 hours with no luck and left defeated to go to dinner with the wife. I came back 2 hours later to work on it again and everything worked fine. I have not been able to recreate the issue to date. I am still absolutely perplexed by this. </p><p></p><p>I spent the rest of that week buttoning up odds and ends trying to get the car ready for an event on Saturday morning. I get it mostly back together and fire it up for the first time but all of the MS3 sensors are acting wonky. This issue ended up being a loose ground pin in the connector for the MS3. No idea how it got messed up as the connectors have been plugged in for this whole project but I digress. I fixed the pin put it back together and everything seems good....</p><p></p><p>I fixed the MS3 grounding issue Saturday morning shortly before I was getting ready to call it quits. I scrambled to get the car drivable let it idle in the garage to warm up and head out. Car was driving great, which it should nothing mechanically changed, but I was not getting good readings out of either wideband. O well I thought, they probably need free air calibrated, the tune is close enough to drive on. Get to the event trouble free, take some friends on a few rides while we were there, do a successful celebration burnout leaving and head to grab dinner at a nearby place all with no issues other than the wide bands. </p><p></p><p>Much later in the night I fire up the car to drive home, no issue. Get about a mile from my house and the car completely shuts off. No dash lights, headlights nothing. Luckily I was able to coast to a side road. Had the wife drive me home to get the jump pack and some tools. Messed with it to no avail until a neighbor drove by and we tried bump starting it, again nothing. Another neighbor happed to pass by and we tried pull starting it with his truck, yet again nothing. So I towed it home defeated.</p><p></p><p>The next day looking things over I notice the battery voltage is very low, like ~8volts low so I threw it on the charger for a few hours. Try to start it, CLICK! nothing. No big deal it needs a starter. It's the original with 175k miles so it was due. After some research I ended up getting a Motorcraft starter for an 18 mustang. It is a little smaller and about 1.5 lbs lighter. </p><p>Comparison</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1793330[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1793331[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]1793332[/ATTACH]</p><p>It installed fine but was a little close to one of the ARH primaries so I decided to pull it back off, wrap in heat shield and reinstall.[ATTACH=full]1793333[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1793334[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Get it final installed and was very relieved when the car fired up with no issues and quicker/quiter than the old starter. Now we're getting somewhere I thought.</p><p></p><p>With the car running I disconnected the battery and it died instantly. Which proved, as I had suspected, the alternator was doing nothing the entire day I was out driving on Saturday. So for anyone considering Odyssey battery I would highly recommend. This was all done on an Odyssey 925 AGM battery I installed over the winter.</p><p></p><p>So new problem, alternator doing nothing. I diagnose it to a break somewhere between the dash and the alternator on the battery light circuit to the dash. I pull every connector apart testing for continuity between one another. All test good.... Put them back together one by one testing continuity as I go. Get it all back together and it is still testing good. Put the gauge cluster back in and the battery indicator is working now. Start the car, unplug the battery and it's working fine. So to recap, I again took it apart, put it back together changing nothing and it works now. </p><p></p><p>Finally I get back to the wideband issue. Free air calibrate the sensors and both the lc2 controllers show all is good. Fire the car up and again bad readings and one of the controllers is now flashing red indicating a fault for heater circuit. I replace the sensor with a spare I had, key on and now both are throwing error codes. Both controllers are now not heating past 20% for whatever reason. O well I had never been happy with the lc2's so I used it as an excuse to upgrade to some 14point7 controllers. They should be shipping out this week.</p><p></p><p>Has to be done now right? WRONG? Passenger rear caliper was leaking from the piston again. Grabbed another from a brick and mortar store this time, painted it to match and threw it on. </p><p></p><p>Then I want to change the oil and saw some wetness around the power steering pump. Thinking it was the fitting for the braided hydroboost line I pulled the pulley off to change only to find the main shaft seal was the cause of the leak. Another gut punch but I take it in stride, ordered a new one off LMR.</p><p></p><p>Lastly I sent the oil sample to black stone for analysis. It is literally in the mailbox right now so I don't have results but I fully expect them to tell me the motor is ready to grenade. I have no reason to think that, everything looks healthy but that is the way things are going.</p><p></p><p>Hopefully after I get the new parts from 14point7 I can finally get some finished pictures of the double din/center console swap. It is torn apart right now to rewire the widebands. </p><p></p><p></p><p>TLDR/Cliffnotes:</p><p></p><p>Cars are stupid.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="96dreamer, post: 16913080, member: 52560"] Story time. After getting the dash in I was replacing the dome lights with leds and noticed they were not working. Traced it back to a blown #8 interior fuse. Replaced it and it immediately blew so I knew something was up. I spent entirely to long diagnosing the issue and ended up finding the wire to the glove box light pinched. After finally finding and correcting the issue, I replaced the fuse and it didn't pop. Unfortunately the keyless entry did nothing unless the doors were opened and the headlight knob was turned on, then everything seemed to work normally. With the headlight knob off the door lock/unlock buttons turned on the exterior running lights and the keyless entry did nothing. I tried figuring out wtf was going on for a good 3 hours with no luck and left defeated to go to dinner with the wife. I came back 2 hours later to work on it again and everything worked fine. I have not been able to recreate the issue to date. I am still absolutely perplexed by this. I spent the rest of that week buttoning up odds and ends trying to get the car ready for an event on Saturday morning. I get it mostly back together and fire it up for the first time but all of the MS3 sensors are acting wonky. This issue ended up being a loose ground pin in the connector for the MS3. No idea how it got messed up as the connectors have been plugged in for this whole project but I digress. I fixed the pin put it back together and everything seems good.... I fixed the MS3 grounding issue Saturday morning shortly before I was getting ready to call it quits. I scrambled to get the car drivable let it idle in the garage to warm up and head out. Car was driving great, which it should nothing mechanically changed, but I was not getting good readings out of either wideband. O well I thought, they probably need free air calibrated, the tune is close enough to drive on. Get to the event trouble free, take some friends on a few rides while we were there, do a successful celebration burnout leaving and head to grab dinner at a nearby place all with no issues other than the wide bands. Much later in the night I fire up the car to drive home, no issue. Get about a mile from my house and the car completely shuts off. No dash lights, headlights nothing. Luckily I was able to coast to a side road. Had the wife drive me home to get the jump pack and some tools. Messed with it to no avail until a neighbor drove by and we tried bump starting it, again nothing. Another neighbor happed to pass by and we tried pull starting it with his truck, yet again nothing. So I towed it home defeated. The next day looking things over I notice the battery voltage is very low, like ~8volts low so I threw it on the charger for a few hours. Try to start it, CLICK! nothing. No big deal it needs a starter. It's the original with 175k miles so it was due. After some research I ended up getting a Motorcraft starter for an 18 mustang. It is a little smaller and about 1.5 lbs lighter. Comparison [ATTACH type="full"]1793330[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1793331[/ATTACH][ATTACH type="full"]1793332[/ATTACH] It installed fine but was a little close to one of the ARH primaries so I decided to pull it back off, wrap in heat shield and reinstall.[ATTACH type="full"]1793333[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]1793334[/ATTACH] Get it final installed and was very relieved when the car fired up with no issues and quicker/quiter than the old starter. Now we're getting somewhere I thought. With the car running I disconnected the battery and it died instantly. Which proved, as I had suspected, the alternator was doing nothing the entire day I was out driving on Saturday. So for anyone considering Odyssey battery I would highly recommend. This was all done on an Odyssey 925 AGM battery I installed over the winter. So new problem, alternator doing nothing. I diagnose it to a break somewhere between the dash and the alternator on the battery light circuit to the dash. I pull every connector apart testing for continuity between one another. All test good.... Put them back together one by one testing continuity as I go. Get it all back together and it is still testing good. Put the gauge cluster back in and the battery indicator is working now. Start the car, unplug the battery and it's working fine. So to recap, I again took it apart, put it back together changing nothing and it works now. Finally I get back to the wideband issue. Free air calibrate the sensors and both the lc2 controllers show all is good. Fire the car up and again bad readings and one of the controllers is now flashing red indicating a fault for heater circuit. I replace the sensor with a spare I had, key on and now both are throwing error codes. Both controllers are now not heating past 20% for whatever reason. O well I had never been happy with the lc2's so I used it as an excuse to upgrade to some 14point7 controllers. They should be shipping out this week. Has to be done now right? WRONG? Passenger rear caliper was leaking from the piston again. Grabbed another from a brick and mortar store this time, painted it to match and threw it on. Then I want to change the oil and saw some wetness around the power steering pump. Thinking it was the fitting for the braided hydroboost line I pulled the pulley off to change only to find the main shaft seal was the cause of the leak. Another gut punch but I take it in stride, ordered a new one off LMR. Lastly I sent the oil sample to black stone for analysis. It is literally in the mailbox right now so I don't have results but I fully expect them to tell me the motor is ready to grenade. I have no reason to think that, everything looks healthy but that is the way things are going. Hopefully after I get the new parts from 14point7 I can finally get some finished pictures of the double din/center console swap. It is torn apart right now to rewire the widebands. TLDR/Cliffnotes: Cars are stupid. [/QUOTE]
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