I don't have any extra relays. I took the Hi power to the oem fan from the ccrm and tied it into the 12v in to the PWM controller. So the fan control out from the MS3 triggers the factory CCRM relay sending power to the PWM controller. The generic PWM out table in the MS3 is what controls the fan speed via the PWM controller.
96dreamer's Never Ending Build Thread
- Thread starter 96dreamer
- Start date
I don't remember, but you don't have the plug and play set up correct?
No I have the MS3 Pro Ultimate. I got mine installed about 6 months before they announced PNP details on the 96-04 cars.
So some positive updates for a change. I was not willing to accept that the 01+ console switches were green when the rest of my interior lights are blue / white. I was able to take the factory leds out and replace them with blue/ white to match everything else. All of the factory switches can interchange faces. If you pull straight out they pop right off. The bulbs are held is with brass posts and plastic retainers. If you spread the brass posts apart you can pretty easily maneuver the factory bulbs out. This is what it looks like with the cover removed. The switches are different between the different factory options but the process is the same. I use 3 fog light switches with different faces for my setup.
I destroyed one switch removing the outer cover for testing but you can do the same thing just removing the cover with a small screw driver and needle nose pliers. The leds I bought were a little too tall so I sanded them down to just above the metal in the diode.
I bent the leads up to match the factory bulbs, clipped them into the factory switch and ended up with this
You'll notice the black paint on the top/ sides of the leds. I know I can reduce the brightness of leds with an in line resistor, I didn't do that. I covered the top and a portion of the sides with some black touch up paint to reduce the brightness which turned out perfect.
Switches off
Switches on
The brightness/ color matches perfectly to everything else on the center console/ dash
I destroyed one switch removing the outer cover for testing but you can do the same thing just removing the cover with a small screw driver and needle nose pliers. The leds I bought were a little too tall so I sanded them down to just above the metal in the diode.
I bent the leads up to match the factory bulbs, clipped them into the factory switch and ended up with this
You'll notice the black paint on the top/ sides of the leds. I know I can reduce the brightness of leds with an in line resistor, I didn't do that. I covered the top and a portion of the sides with some black touch up paint to reduce the brightness which turned out perfect.
Switches off
Switches on
The brightness/ color matches perfectly to everything else on the center console/ dash
I also was able to get my airbag light off. The module in my car has been messed up since I got it. I think they pulled the dash without disconnecting the airbag module which broke off some of the plastic connectors on it. Since the plastic pins on it were broke it was automatically grounding out and throwing a light. This also prevented it from reading codes . I replaced the module which then threw a front passenger side sensor code. Threw another sensor on and all is good. Airbag light comes on with the key like normal and stays off. It's the little wins that make it all worth it
Good job on the switches. You need to find someone that can overlays so you can do something like this to mess with people...
www.iowa80.com
Flux Capacitor Blue LED Rocker Switch
Black rocker switch back-lit with LED. 20 Amp, Ip65 rating. Fits most existing panel control dash. Integrates directly with the universal wire harness. 2-way, 5-pin.
www.iowa80.com
New LMR power steering pump installed. For those interested the new aluminum one is 2.5lbs lighter than the factory one with the same 8 rib pulley installed.
Also started working on the new Spartan3 wideband controllers. Got as far as getting the old LC-2 controllers out, mounted the new controllers to the kydex sheet and pulled the new CAN bus wires through my harness. Unfortunately I'm a dumb ass and forgot to twist the CAN wires before putting them in the harness so I have to redo that. Hoping to have it all buttoned up tomorrow so I can start on a swing set project for my son.
Also started working on the new Spartan3 wideband controllers. Got as far as getting the old LC-2 controllers out, mounted the new controllers to the kydex sheet and pulled the new CAN bus wires through my harness. Unfortunately I'm a dumb ass and forgot to twist the CAN wires before putting them in the harness so I have to redo that. Hoping to have it all buttoned up tomorrow so I can start on a swing set project for my son.
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Wow! is the powersteering/hydroboost pump from a coyote too?
No this is a completely new one from LMR. It came in a Lares corp box so I have to assume this is the one they are selling, Lares Catalog
On the topic of weight savings I realized I never posted about the battery. After the lead acid died on me last year I ordered the Odyssey AGM925 (previously the PC925). I knew a lot of guys ran the PC680 with no issue but I wanted the extra capacity since this a a 95+% street car. Glad I did since I drove on just battery for a whole day essentially.
Original battery 32.4 lbs
New AGM28 25.5lbs
The PC680 would have been an additional 7lbs lighter than the AGM 28 but I am happy with the tradeoff. The Odyssey is listed at a lower CCA but these AGM batteries behave a little differently than a lead acid. This one has a 900A output for the first 5 seconds when warm. This is more relatable to what this car will actually see. The few times it has been started on this battery it had no issue turning over. It combined with the new starter starts the car effortlessly.
In the future maybe I won't be such a cheap ass and buck up for an antigravity battery at under 10lbs with jump start protection, H5/Group-47 Lithium Car Battery
Original battery 32.4 lbs
New AGM28 25.5lbs
The PC680 would have been an additional 7lbs lighter than the AGM 28 but I am happy with the tradeoff. The Odyssey is listed at a lower CCA but these AGM batteries behave a little differently than a lead acid. This one has a 900A output for the first 5 seconds when warm. This is more relatable to what this car will actually see. The few times it has been started on this battery it had no issue turning over. It combined with the new starter starts the car effortlessly.
In the future maybe I won't be such a cheap ass and buck up for an antigravity battery at under 10lbs with jump start protection, H5/Group-47 Lithium Car Battery
That's a bummer about the pump, in my old age I tend to only buy mechanical parts that are motorcraft. Way too much junk out there to buy anything else. I am always tempted by lightweight though. Hope it has long longevity for you!
I just recently purchased a new battery and im hoping the next time im ready for one the lithium stuff starts to become more reasonable... fingers crossed.
I just recently purchased a new battery and im hoping the next time im ready for one the lithium stuff starts to become more reasonable... fingers crossed.
I don't disagree. Years ago I would have picked up the cheapest option from the local box store. I don't go that route anymore. I like to put only oem or new non reman parts on. Unfortunately the Motorcraft power steering pumps are not available new anymore from what I could find. So it was between a new aftermarket or a rebuild motorcraft.
The Lares unit from their website says it carries a lifetime warranty. LMR only lists a 30 day warranty but hopefully I never have to worry about that anyway
Finally took the time to take some finished pictures of the interior. Happy with how everything turned out. Time will tell how well the dye holds up on the tan center console. I scratched it getting it over the damn e-brake one of the times I had it in and out. I was actually able to touch it up in the car and it is not noticeable. If it starts noticeably degrading I will keep an eye out for a charcoal one.
The round mount to the left of the vents is a magnetic wireless phone charger. No hard launches yet but it feels very solid. I think anything short of launching at the track it should have no issues.
I also have the MS3 integrated to the head unit with a hardwired usb and msdroid. Still working on my layout for gauges and indicators. Sensor 3 is oil pressure but I hadn't configured it yet. Not shown is the backup camera and dash cam I also incorporated into the head unit. Ill grab some pictures of those next time I get the car out. You can barely see the dashcam in the first interior picture
A few other small updates. My last oil analysis had a pretty high increase in silicon (dirt) in the oil. Decided to swap the old oiled filter with an AFE dry filter and pre filter. As you can see it was about time. The oiled fitter only has probably 20k miles( with multiple cleanings) but is over 10 years old.
I also finally got my belt situation lined out with the new larger alternator pulley. I stumbled across the fact that I was overspinning the alternator by about 4k rpms at 7k rpm. I modified an 03/04 Metco 3.0" pulley to fit which gives an idle shaft speed of ~2k rpms and redline of ~17k rpms which is below the 18k that Mechman rated them at. Unfortunately the larger pulley rendered my RPM belt to short. I tried notching the tensioner but it was still a little short. Ended up having to go to the next belt size, up from 114.5 to 115.3.
I ordered both a Gates HD 115.3 and a Dayco Aramid core 115.5. The Gates came in first and fits great so it will be staying on unless I have issues. I bought the Dayco more as an experiment. The aramid core is supposed to be much stronger and is what the Gates RPM belt used. Unfortunately the RPM belt isn't available in this length and I read that they are stopping development of it. Which is a bummer because the green belt is pretty unsightly.
I also had a lazy driver o2, I presume from the LC2 controller frying it at some point. I bought two new Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors to put on so the new spartan controllers have accurate readings and all looks good now.
Side note if anyone needs a 3.2" 8 rib alternator pulley for a 96-01 style alternator let me know. I have one I already modified but decided to use the 3.0"
The round mount to the left of the vents is a magnetic wireless phone charger. No hard launches yet but it feels very solid. I think anything short of launching at the track it should have no issues.
I also have the MS3 integrated to the head unit with a hardwired usb and msdroid. Still working on my layout for gauges and indicators. Sensor 3 is oil pressure but I hadn't configured it yet. Not shown is the backup camera and dash cam I also incorporated into the head unit. Ill grab some pictures of those next time I get the car out. You can barely see the dashcam in the first interior picture
A few other small updates. My last oil analysis had a pretty high increase in silicon (dirt) in the oil. Decided to swap the old oiled filter with an AFE dry filter and pre filter. As you can see it was about time. The oiled fitter only has probably 20k miles( with multiple cleanings) but is over 10 years old.
I also finally got my belt situation lined out with the new larger alternator pulley. I stumbled across the fact that I was overspinning the alternator by about 4k rpms at 7k rpm. I modified an 03/04 Metco 3.0" pulley to fit which gives an idle shaft speed of ~2k rpms and redline of ~17k rpms which is below the 18k that Mechman rated them at. Unfortunately the larger pulley rendered my RPM belt to short. I tried notching the tensioner but it was still a little short. Ended up having to go to the next belt size, up from 114.5 to 115.3.
I ordered both a Gates HD 115.3 and a Dayco Aramid core 115.5. The Gates came in first and fits great so it will be staying on unless I have issues. I bought the Dayco more as an experiment. The aramid core is supposed to be much stronger and is what the Gates RPM belt used. Unfortunately the RPM belt isn't available in this length and I read that they are stopping development of it. Which is a bummer because the green belt is pretty unsightly.
I also had a lazy driver o2, I presume from the LC2 controller frying it at some point. I bought two new Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors to put on so the new spartan controllers have accurate readings and all looks good now.
Side note if anyone needs a 3.2" 8 rib alternator pulley for a 96-01 style alternator let me know. I have one I already modified but decided to use the 3.0"
Interior looks great! How did you attach the phone mount to the dash? Drill some holes and bolt it in back behind the radio bezel?
My car just ate a March alternator pulley a month ago. It wallowed out the center hole. It was a horrible design, do not recommend. So I had to go back to the stock pulley.
My car just ate a March alternator pulley a month ago. It wallowed out the center hole. It was a horrible design, do not recommend. So I had to go back to the stock pulley.
I happened across an add for one of these on Facebook Marketplace before I even started the dash swap. 94-04 SN95 Ford Mustang Dash Mounting Bracket
Fits great, I'd recommend for anyone looking for a good phone mount solution.
I wired this into the cigarette lighter wiring so it gets a full 3 amp output allowing fast charger through the wireless charger. Amazon link
I'm surprised. I've had their 4" pulley on mine for more than 10 years now and it's still fine.
What caused the failure?
The thinnest spacer that they provided that goes between the alternator bearing and pulley was too still too thick and did not allow full thread engagement of the nut on the front side of the pulley. I suppose it didn't provide enough clamp force to hold it still. I guess it started spinning on the shaft and ate material away then started rocking and the belt started squealing which led me to investigate and that's what I found. The pulley never lined up well with where the stock pulley was anyways so it was nice to get it off the car. Too bad so much money was wasted on it.
A properly machined pulley without having to use a spacer would be nice.
I had a problem with one of their water pump pulleys back in the day too. It was supposed to be stock diameter but it was underdrive and wouldn't fit with the procharger. Had to send that one back. Ended up drawing up my own pulley and having a local cnc shop cut it out for me since I could never find a stock diameter aluminum pulley.
A properly machined pulley without having to use a spacer would be nice.
I had a problem with one of their water pump pulleys back in the day too. It was supposed to be stock diameter but it was underdrive and wouldn't fit with the procharger. Had to send that one back. Ended up drawing up my own pulley and having a local cnc shop cut it out for me since I could never find a stock diameter aluminum pulley.
That is pretty cool mount. How is held in? Is it just the radio bezel?
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It uses the two HVAC control screws on whichever side you mount it on. The holes are slotted to allow for misalignment. I just made sure it was pushed all the way to the dash as tight as possible before securing. It is tight installed the bezel with the 17mm ball installed but it is removeable. The mag mount is as close to the dash as it can be. The locking nut touches the dash when it is loose.
Drove the car to work last week, one of the hottest days of the year. Was happy to find out the AC was still ice cold. Not sure the last time I used it so it was a welcome surprise. Unfortunately on the way home a noise developed in the front end. Diagnosed it as a bad front driver wheel bearing. To the best of my knowledge they are original with 180k miles on them so it's not to surprising.
If anyone happened to see my other thread on hubs you know finding a quality new bearing is getting harder. I ordered 4 different timken wheel hubs none of which had koyo markings anywhere. Hub face with no bearing markings and the one marking on any of them, a small laser marked number on the outer edge.
![d5151f59-ec40-4fb9-9333-a677cd539a81[1].jpg](https://svtperformance.com/attachments/d5151f59-ec40-4fb9-9333-a677cd539a81-1-jpg.1800436/ "d5151f59-ec40-4fb9-9333-a677cd539a81[1].jpg")
![20230705_192124[1].jpg](https://svtperformance.com/attachments/20230705_192124-1-jpg.1800437/ "20230705_192124[1].jpg")
I decided to reluctantly install two new timkens in hopes they last. The front passenger wasn't bad but had slight play and with the age/mileage it made sense to do it while it was on jack stands. It hurt a little bit to pull off the oem USA marked koyo ones for these most likely Chinese versions.
![20230706_165246[1].jpg](https://svtperformance.com/attachments/20230706_165246-1-jpg.1800438/ "20230706_165246[1].jpg")
While I had the wheels off I noticed the stick on wheel weights were lightly rubbing the ATS calipers. I was getting ready to take them to a buddies shop to have them rebalanced and noticed some how the front tires are already 10 years old, time flies. Despite looking almost new I decided I would be more comfortable with a new set. Can't have a tire come apart at high speed. Plus I am hoping to be able to put my son, 2 years old now, in it before to long so I am not taking any chances. So two new 555 g2's should be here next week. Always something.....
![20230706_183651[1].jpg](https://svtperformance.com/attachments/20230706_183651-1-jpg.1800439/ "20230706_183651[1].jpg")
If anyone happened to see my other thread on hubs you know finding a quality new bearing is getting harder. I ordered 4 different timken wheel hubs none of which had koyo markings anywhere. Hub face with no bearing markings and the one marking on any of them, a small laser marked number on the outer edge.
I decided to reluctantly install two new timkens in hopes they last. The front passenger wasn't bad but had slight play and with the age/mileage it made sense to do it while it was on jack stands. It hurt a little bit to pull off the oem USA marked koyo ones for these most likely Chinese versions.
While I had the wheels off I noticed the stick on wheel weights were lightly rubbing the ATS calipers. I was getting ready to take them to a buddies shop to have them rebalanced and noticed some how the front tires are already 10 years old, time flies. Despite looking almost new I decided I would be more comfortable with a new set. Can't have a tire come apart at high speed. Plus I am hoping to be able to put my son, 2 years old now, in it before to long so I am not taking any chances. So two new 555 g2's should be here next week. Always something.....
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