It sounds like a leak in either metered air before the throttle body or a vacuum leak after the throttle body. That's what might be causing it to stall out when coming to a stop. The car has the most vacuum at idle or when the throttle body is immediately closed (like when coming to a stop), therefore, if there's a vacuum leak, it's gonna be worst during these conditions.
It's leaking vacuum and metered air when coming to an idle, and it's leaking boost when you're getting into it.
I really think it has something to do with the way the PCV system is hooked up. I'm telling you, disconnect the PCV lines that connect to the turbo inlet pipe, boost tube between the turbo and throttle body, or intake manifold. (I'm not sure exactly where your PCV hoses are connected, but it's got to be 2 out of those 3.. all of which are metered air). When you disconnect them, the important thing is that you plug the bungs in the intake tract where both hoses connect. For the purpose of this test, it doesn't matter if the hoses coming from the crankcase don't connect to anything, just make sure they are secure from heat and moving parts. That'll eliminate the possibility of there being a vacuum/boost leak through the intake into the PCV system.
I recommend to eliminate any possibility of there being a metered-air PCV leak, either use breathers (little filters connected directly to the PCV valves on each valve cover), or you can run PCV hoses to a catch can with a filter on the top. That accomplishes the same thing, except it gives the oil vapor/smoke a single place to condense. Or, you could run both hoses into a T fitting to a single hose, and connect the single line before the MAF in the intake. Make sure to use an oil accumulator to reduce the likelihood of oil and smoke making the MAF dirty (which will throw a lean code because it's not reading accurately). It all depends on what state you live in and whether or not you have to pass an inspection or emissions test. If you aren't worried about emissions, just do breathers, or a catch can. That way, it's completely separate from the metered side of the intake.
The simplest setup by far is to just run breathers on each side and cap off the original fittings on the intake and boost tube where the PCV originally connected.
That eliminates any possibility of there being a vacuum/boost/metered air leak through the PCV system. Vacuum leaks are awful to track down, so having one less place for there to be a vacuum leak makes things a lot simpler to troubleshoot.
Oh, forgot to ask you. Is the check engine light on? If so, what codes is it showing? Do you have a boost/vacuum gauge? If so, how much vacuum is it showing at idle? If you have the gauge connected to the correct area in a vacuum line on the intake manifold, it should be reading around 20 in/hg at idle. If it's reading 15 or less in/hg at vacuum, I'd be suspicious of a leak.
Please, before you do anything else...plug the bungs where the PCV hoses connect to the intake tract and see how it runs. (don't plug the hoses coming from the PCV valves on either side of the engine. just let them hang loose for a test ride. It'll be ok if they are open for now. They are venting to the atmosphere, just like with breathers) But its very important you do this with both PCV hoses on either side of the engine. If I'm right, you'll notice an instant improvement in driveability. Smooth, steady idle, no hesitating, stalling, and no breaking up when you start to get in the boost. Do that and tell me what happens.
Good luck!
Homer
I will try this when i get home... i am reading 20 in of vacuum at idle. my question is if i cap off the upper portion (the pipe leading to the throttle body) that is the iac reference.. shouldn't that be connected? the only codes i have are for the rear o2 sensors which are deletedand secondary air injection which is also taken out. i also have imrc deletes installed.. not sure what kind of driveabilty issue that would cause low end.