820/548 with a whipple gen 3 on 93
- Thread starter ANGREY
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Not my car. Just saw the vid and posted
Interesting curves, torque virtually flat across the board and hp looks like it was drawn with a ruler. Not sure I've ever seen anything like it.
The hp they are getting just bolting a Whipple on a Voodoo engine running pump gas is pretty phenomenal. I would think people would be jumping on this like it's open bar at the Ritz, it would make for the ultimate Mustang EVER! I don't recall 1 supercharged GT350 build thread on this site. Blower swaps on the Terminator and early GT500's fell from the sky like rain and still do. Why no blower GT350 that would make for some great threads on this site?
Pray bubba pumped the premium into the right tank with that setup.
What has fallen from the sky is threads or articles that talk about all the reasons voodoo motors should not be boosted. I think most people are scared to boost. (like me)
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Why is that torque number so low?
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That is how you make it live on 93 and pull the HP on top.
Now if only the Gen3 Whipple will make these numbers on the GT500 with 93 pump gas.
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The same reason the HP number is so high..........
The reason more people haven't done the blower build is numerous.
1) Caution. Unlike the termi example you gave, these cars are made from the factory to be Naturally Aspirated. Rather than a boost friendly lower Compression, these cars are an N/A friendly higher compression and more than just moderate boost poses a real threat of failure and limited longevity. Additionally, there's unknowns and concerns about torqueing on the snout of the flat plane crank. I could delve into a bunch of fear/hysteria about forged internals (and what qualifies as forged and what doesn't), aluminum forged vs. steel forged, etc, but the bottom line, until there's a bunch of pioneer's, many people will be apprehensive to risk their $60k+ car (with a $20k+ engine) to nuking it with a blower setup that wasn't meant to be from the factory.
2) Purpose. This is (from Ford) an IRS, track focused machine. Additional power and torque never hurt, but it's debate worthy (another thread would probably create a long spirited debate as to whether the pro's/con's of adding a blower help or hurt the 350's track capability). I plan on slapping a whipple on, but detuning it to a safe and respectable 650-700 rwhp. I'm not trying to break any HP records or win any drag races, I just want a more spirited and torqy drive and I'm willing to pay for it, add more weight to the front and slightly disrupt the balance of the car to get it. I'm unique. Most guys that want to put on a blower want to make as MUCH power as possible, which can make the car more difficult to drive and still doesn't get you a good drag car (an 800+ hp whipple is in no man's land, it would be an out of control monster in the turns and still wouldn't be a top notch contender on the strip).
1) Caution. Unlike the termi example you gave, these cars are made from the factory to be Naturally Aspirated. Rather than a boost friendly lower Compression, these cars are an N/A friendly higher compression and more than just moderate boost poses a real threat of failure and limited longevity. Additionally, there's unknowns and concerns about torqueing on the snout of the flat plane crank. I could delve into a bunch of fear/hysteria about forged internals (and what qualifies as forged and what doesn't), aluminum forged vs. steel forged, etc, but the bottom line, until there's a bunch of pioneer's, many people will be apprehensive to risk their $60k+ car (with a $20k+ engine) to nuking it with a blower setup that wasn't meant to be from the factory.
2) Purpose. This is (from Ford) an IRS, track focused machine. Additional power and torque never hurt, but it's debate worthy (another thread would probably create a long spirited debate as to whether the pro's/con's of adding a blower help or hurt the 350's track capability). I plan on slapping a whipple on, but detuning it to a safe and respectable 650-700 rwhp. I'm not trying to break any HP records or win any drag races, I just want a more spirited and torqy drive and I'm willing to pay for it, add more weight to the front and slightly disrupt the balance of the car to get it. I'm unique. Most guys that want to put on a blower want to make as MUCH power as possible, which can make the car more difficult to drive and still doesn't get you a good drag car (an 800+ hp whipple is in no man's land, it would be an out of control monster in the turns and still wouldn't be a top notch contender on the strip).
Agree, but the vendors who sell the kits thinks it's a great idea! I'm curious how well the engine holds up under boost but I admit I'm not the one writing the checks to pay for all this. The though of wadding a voodoo engine after spending all that coin on mods is not very comforting.
With the compression ratio the tuner is manipulating vct and spark to limit torque until safely past peak torgue to prevent knock. Same strategy being used with GT500 and ecoboost. The only kicker is that your fuel has absolutely got to be the real deal 93.
cause the supercharger sucks engine power simply to produce engine power. they run off an engine belt connected to the crankshaft. ur essentially powering an air pump with another air pump.
it needs engine power to make power and therefore TQ is robbed which is why a Turbo is more efficient cause it uses the motors own heat to make power. waste energy is essentially converted to make power.
on race gas at the higher levels of HP that gap between HP and TQ gets smaller with a blower especially a centrif blower. timing and other tuning changes make that possible with race gas thats not possible with straight 93 octane unless you thro Methanol at it then it becomes race gas essentially.
an Auto with the properly selected TQ Converter will also help.
also the Centrifugal blower will make less heat then the PD and make more HP in the upper boost levels but they require RPM to make power so therefore you lose a lot on the low end grunt which makes for a shitty street car.
it needs engine power to make power and therefore TQ is robbed which is why a Turbo is more efficient cause it uses the motors own heat to make power. waste energy is essentially converted to make power.
on race gas at the higher levels of HP that gap between HP and TQ gets smaller with a blower especially a centrif blower. timing and other tuning changes make that possible with race gas thats not possible with straight 93 octane unless you thro Methanol at it then it becomes race gas essentially.
an Auto with the properly selected TQ Converter will also help.
also the Centrifugal blower will make less heat then the PD and make more HP in the upper boost levels but they require RPM to make power so therefore you lose a lot on the low end grunt which makes for a shitty street car.
I was under the impression low torque numbers are the way they are to save the cylinder walls.
Can anyone confirm or deny this?
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That’s a good hunch, I’m thinking this has something to do with the tune and staying safe.
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Typically blowers have been the unit of choice for stout torque numbers regardless of its parasitic effect.
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