8.8 TrueTrac Problems?

[ricardoa1]

I have a Eaton/Detroit True-Trac in my car, I am also using Alum bushings. I am trying to see if this is normal operation or if its a problem with the unit.

Beause of the Alum bushings I can hear everthing that happens back there. I am using 80W90 oil from what i remember.


Here is the problem I get a pop or pops/clack when changing direction Fwd/Reverse, Also when i make a tight turn and give it some gas. I also get it on decel and when I get back on the gas. The pops are annoying and its behaving like a detroit locker. I think its simply the worm gears winding to its stops but I feel its loud. Anyone experience this?

This rear end is supposed to be smooth but mine pops.

It works as described though locks up and burns out fine. But the noises are annoying.

I think I want to go back to Poly bushings so i dont hear it, but want to know what others think.

Should I switch to 75W140?

 

[keith89]

I have a Eaton/Detroit True-Trac in my car, I am also using Alum bushings. I am trying to see if this is normal operation or if its a problem with the unit.

Beause of the Alum bushings I can hear everthing that happens back there. I am using 80W90 oil from what i remember.


Here is the problem I get a pop or pops/clack when changing direction Fwd/Reverse, Also when i make a tight turn and give it some gas. I also get it on decel and when I get back on the gas. The pops are annoying and its behaving like a detroit locker. I think its simply the worm gears winding to its stops but I feel its loud. Anyone experience this?

This rear end is supposed to be smooth but mine pops.

It works as described though locks up and burns out fine. But the noises are annoying.

I think I want to go back to Poly bushings so i dont hear it, but want to know what others think.

Should I switch to 75W140?

I get the same thing. I have Bruce's complete bushing kit. I think it is the worm gears locking in but i can't say for sure. I hope it's normal. other than the clunks when going from reverse to forward, and on and off the gas, it is very smooth.

 

[TwinTurbo4vGT]

changing the bushings wont stop the noise. Its the worm gears. Mine does it too.

 

[ricardoa1]

I changed to Rotella 70W140 and still get the pops. It seems like some have the noise and some dont. The fluid that came out looked like a candy metallic paint. I wonder if after long term use the worm gears develop slop. I guess I have to live with it but they should put a disclaimer because I dont know why they think this is smooth operation. I have a street car so when I use the car regularly it gets annoying.

But glad others have the same issue too,

 

[TwinTurbo4vGT]

I changed to Rotella 70W140 and still get the pops. It seems like some have the noise and some dont. The fluid that came out looked like a candy metallic paint. I wonder if after long term use the worm gears develop slop. I guess I have to live with it but they should put a disclaimer because I dont know why they think this is smooth operation. I have a street car so when I use the car regularly it gets annoying.

But glad others have the same issue too,

you dont hear it over the exhaust anyway :burnout:

 

[TVSCobra]

I have had two truetracs, one in my sold 06 Mustang GT and the one in the Cobra now. The truetrac in the GT would pop all the time, make a winding/racheting noise on decel. And no that was not the ring and pinion making the noise. I have bruces aluminum bushing kit, the only noise I get is the normal clunk noise from the driveline. It did that before the rearend work, I set the gear between .009 and .010 on backlash. Eaton claims the truetracs are noise free but they are not. They seem to not have any consistancy, but they are great units and can be used for drag racing and then taken to the road course then next. I used Rotella 85w-140(conventional oil), you can get it a Walmart for 3.80 a quart. I ran that 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 miles, I changed it many times for proper break-in. I now run a fluid like Redlines shock proof but it is make by Amsoil (SAE190). You can sign up for the Amsoil preffered customer and it cuts like 4 bucks off of each quart.

Who setup your rearend? Did you use the axle spacer? On IRS car you don't need the axle spacer, since our axle are held in by the hubs and we have clips on the shaft stubs. I have also found that there is a lot of play between the gears inside the truetrac, this doesn't help us since our trannies already have a large amount of play in them. Then add the slop from the axleshaft joints themselves.

If I had to do it all over again, I would problably go with a factory traclock and use the alternative stack method and pack them really tight. I have been meaning to give you a call and I will. I have been busy.

 

[keith89]

Yeah I was expecting it to be noiseless but it's actually very clunky even when new. I'm learning to drive around it along with all the other drivetrain noises. It is annoying sometimes but the power delivery is very smooth in the corners and no more one wheel peel. I guess i could have stuck with rebuilding the stock unit with extra clutch packs.

 

[ricardoa1]

I have had two truetracs, one in my sold 06 Mustang GT and the one in the Cobra now. The truetrac in the GT would pop all the time, make a winding/racheting noise on decel. And no that was not the ring and pinion making the noise. I have bruces aluminum bushing kit, the only noise I get is the normal clunk noise from the driveline. It did that before the rearend work, I set the gear between .009 and .010 on backlash. Eaton claims the truetracs are noise free but they are not. They seem to not have any consistancy, but they are great units and can be used for drag racing and then taken to the road course then next. I used Rotella 85w-140(conventional oil), you can get it a Walmart for 3.80 a quart. I ran that 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 miles, I changed it many times for proper break-in. I now run a fluid like Redlines shock proof but it is make by Amsoil (SAE190). You can sign up for the Amsoil preffered customer and it cuts like 4 bucks off of each quart.

Who setup your rearend? Did you use the axle spacer? On IRS car you don't need the axle spacer, since our axle are held in by the hubs and we have clips on the shaft stubs. I have also found that there is a lot of play between the gears inside the truetrac, this doesn't help us since our trannies already have a large amount of play in them. Then add the slop from the axleshaft joints themselves.

If I had to do it all over again, I would problably go with a factory traclock and use the alternative stack method and pack them really tight. I have been meaning to give you a call and I will. I have been busy.

No problem, seems we are all having the same issues. Annoying but i guess it is maintanance free so I guess I should be happy. I did not know it was going to be this loud. I might have rebuilt the Ford trakloc if I knew it was this loud.
The unit was set up by a friend of mine that knows how do set backlash and all tha jazz.

 

[keith89]

No problem, seems we are all having the same issues. Annoying but i guess it is maintanance free so I guess I should be happy. I did not know it was going to be this loud. I might have rebuilt the Ford trakloc if I knew it was this loud.
The unit was set up by a friend of mine that knows how do set backlash and all tha jazz.

reviving an old thread. I'm still trying to figure this out. It seems to be hit or miss. I love the differential but the slop is annoying in stop and go. I can rotate my driveshaft 10-15 degrees before my axles turn. I have the full tilt bushings which has nothing to do with it too. I'm afraid something might break one of these days due to the gears and driveshaft slamming back and forth. Do the torsens have this issue?

 

[Tractionless1]

I've had my Detroit TruTrac in for just over 600 miles and don't hear any noises until the tires slip and it locks. It only when going around a corner, never in a straight line, never upon simple accel nor decel. I'm using a Ratech soild pinion spacer, OEM Ford gears, MW caps, and all new setup hardware including bearings etc.


I'd never consider replacing the Trac-Loc unit with another Trac-loc with alternate shim stack considering it requires removal of the IRS to maintain. I'm fine with removing it once to replace the diff. and doing other upgrades, but I'll be damned if I'm doing all that work to replace worn clutches.

 

[keith89]

found a video that shows the play caused by the trutrac. As you can see 0:18 seconds in, the ring and pinion move a bit to take up the slack inside the differential and cause a clunk. It'll sound different with the cover on and diff fluid filled of course but that's the kind of play that is being caused by some of the trutrac units.

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-beuBBPgnME&feature=related"]True-Trac in action 1 - YouTube[/nomedia]

 

[tom'scobra]

revive an old thread. I recently had a 8.8 diff built with all new parts including a Detroit truetrac 31 spline and Motive 3.31 gears. It made so much noise, after 75 miles I had another shop tear it down, install new bearings and a Ford GT500 3.31 gear. It sill made crunching roaring (not whining) noise.

I was so frustrated, I bought another 8.8 housing, another truetrac, another Ford GT500 gear set had it all assembled with the best bearings. SAME RESULTS.

Not sure what the problem is.

Is it just the nature of the truetrac? Or what? Help any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

I should define the problem a bit more. When accelerating it's fine, when I maintain speed it's fine, when I just ease off the throttle it begins to roar, groan, crunching noise. I don't have to be turning.

 

[GodStang]

revive an old thread. I recently had a 8.8 diff built with all new parts including a Detroit truetrac 31 spline and Motive 3.31 gears. It made so much noise, after 75 miles I had another shop tear it down, install new bearings and a Ford GT500 3.31 gear. It sill made crunching roaring (not whining) noise.

I was so frustrated, I bought another 8.8 housing, another truetrac, another Ford GT500 gear set had it all assembled with the best bearings. SAME RESULTS.

Not sure what the problem is.

Is it just the nature of the truetrac? Or what? Help any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

I should define the problem a bit more. When accelerating it's fine, when I maintain speed it's fine, when I just ease off the throttle it begins to roar, groan, crunching noise. I don't have to be turning.

What fluid are you using? So far mine is quieter than my stock one.

 

[TVSCobra]

The Detroit Truetrac is a great diff, works well. But has its issues.

When its time for a diff in my car it will be a Torsen from Ford for me..........

 

[keith89]

The Detroit Truetrac is a great diff, works well. But has its issues.

When its time for a diff in my car it will be a Torsen from Ford for me..........

I wish i had spent a little more and got a torsen. The truetrac causes a lot of driveline play. I can turn my driveshaft a good 10-15 degrees before the axles engage. It makes stop and go driving tough but I've learned to drive around it. Otherwise the driveshaft makes a lot of clunking noises bouncing back and forth.

 

[TVSCobra]

I wish i had spent a little more and got a torsen. The truetrac causes a lot of driveline play. I can turn my driveshaft a good 10-15 degrees before the axles engage. It makes stop and go driving tough but I've learned to drive around it. Otherwise the driveshaft makes a lot of clunking noises bouncing back and forth.

Yes it does. I should have added that to my last post. This was the case on my unit in last Mustang and this Mustang.


I have build many Ford rearends and have never had an issue unit the truetrac, they work great, that are very strong, etc. But on a DD car they are shit. Plan and simple.

I should have paid the extra and just went with the Torsen this time, when I removed the aluminum housing, when to an Iron IRS housing and built my IRS diff with an upgraded Tracklock and 327 gears.

 

[TVSCobra]

Torsen next time for me, without a doubt. Unless there is something else that comes out that is better, stronger etc.

Since Ford has put these in the Boss and they are in the GT500 I bet the price has come down a lot on these units. I wonder if they are compatible with the IRS?? Im sure they are..

 

[shurur]

There is another one now..it was in a recent thread...wavetrac

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/851547-wavetrac.html

 

[keith89]

There is another one now..it was in a recent thread...wavetrac

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/driveline-216/851547-wavetrac.html

That was one of the other options I was considering. They sound very durable. However, they are pricey and I'm not sure if they offer a version for the 31 spline IRS yet.

Another diff I was looking at was the DPI platinum diffs. Not a lot of info on them though.

 

[tom'scobra]

We put in redline synthetic. My car is not a DD. I use it for crusie-in's and plan to make a few trips down the 1/4.

But the Trutrac is so noisy I haven't been able to enjoy the car. It's fine during acceleration, but as soon as I decrease my speed any amount, the rear end makes a lot of grinding, sound like rocks being crunched. It's been apart several times. I was so concerned, I bought a second 8.8 housing a second truetrac a second GT500 gear set and had it built with the SAME results.

I am seriously considering taking one of the two diff's and removing the truetrac and installing a different brand of posi, but have no idea what kind / brand to use.

Suggestions??