8.8 rear end build question

termcobra281

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Hey everyone looking into building my 8.8 rear end. I have plans on doing 9 inch tubes narrowed, C clip kit on the ends, and maybe team z coil overs. I have GT style brakes on the rear and of course bracket to fit 15 inch wheels. My question is how did anyone adapt the mustang gt brakes on the axle tube? Do they make a kit that works with 9 inch tubes? I heard there is a way of doing it and if so Id rather save some money. The strange brake kit is around $600 so this would save me some money from sticking with the gt brakes and adapter if I could. Also whats the most I could narrow the rear end without a mini tub and without cutting my gas tank out? thanks for all the input
 

P49Y-CY

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from what i understand it would make no sense to do a c-clip eliminator kit for a built rear. you would just do the big torino flange ends which are pretty much the standard and then you will have many choices for brakes.
 

96dreamer

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Why are you messing with the tubes? Have the factory tubes welded to the housing and weld big 9" ends to the outside. You can machine the factory brake bracket to act as a bearing retainer and slide over the axle to make it removeable without pulling the axle. Extremely stout setup. Add a brace if you're still worried about twisting.
 

termcobra281

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from what i understand it would make no sense to do a c-clip eliminator kit for a built rear. you would just do the big torino flange ends which are pretty much the standard and then you will have many choices for brakes.
Just trying to figure out the best way to do this. I was talking with the guy that would build my rear and he does the c clip eliminater kit. I ask him what flange/bracket I would use and he stated strange set up. I ask him about gt brakes and he stated some people do those but I needed to research to see what they use. I just thought for safely to hold my axles in, in the case one broke.
 

termcobra281

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Why are you messing with the tubes? Have the factory tubes welded to the housing and weld big 9" ends to the outside. You can machine the factory brake bracket to act as a bearing retainer and slide over the axle to make it removeable without pulling the axle. Extremely stout setup. Add a brace if you're still worried about twisting.
I was planning in the future for 35 spline axles and I didnt think the 8.8 tubes would hold a 35 spline. I never heard of this set up of using big 9 inch ends to the outside and sliding the brake bracket over acting as a bearing retainer. Is there any write ups on this set up or anywhere I can look at to see this process?
 

CobraSam

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I have 35 splines axles in my foxbodys 8.8 with 9” axle ends welded on. But running the strange drag brake kit, so it’s basically bolt on. Don’t use the c-clip eliminator kit if can avoid it.
 

Wings65288

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This is what u want right here. Only $198. Now when you do this its going to offset your wheels 0.75" inward (ask me how i know). The fix? Dont get strange 9" ends, instead get these Moser 9" ends (beefier and more importantly longer). Measure a before and after to make sure you dont go too long when you weld them on. These Moser 9" ends are going to be 1.075" longer than Stranges so you'll probably have to cut you axle tubes down about 0.325" roughly to GAIN back the 0.75" inches the Strange caliper mounts offset your wheels in.

Get these:
 

96dreamer

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I was planning in the future for 35 spline axles and I didnt think the 8.8 tubes would hold a 35 spline. I never heard of this set up of using big 9 inch ends to the outside and sliding the brake bracket over acting as a bearing retainer. Is there any write ups on this set up or anywhere I can look at to see this process?
I couldn't find any write ups but any chassis shop that has done 9" ends would be familiar I would imagine. All that needs to be done is slot the stock bracket so it can slide over the axle and machine a small counterbore on the side facing the axle to hold the bearing since the bearing sticks out of the housing a small amount. It does require a mill for the counterbore but it's something any machine shop could do in a few minutes.
 

termcobra281

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I couldn't find any write ups but any chassis shop that has done 9" ends would be familiar I would imagine. All that needs to be done is slot the stock bracket so it can slide over the axle and machine a small counterbore on the side facing the axle to hold the bearing since the bearing sticks out of the housing a small amount. It does require a mill for the counterbore but it's something any machine shop could do in a few minutes.
Sounds like this would be the best way to go. I am sure they are a good savings in this set up. Can I ask what shop did the set up?
 

termcobra281

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I have 35 splines axles in my foxbodys 8.8 with 9” axle ends welded on. But running the strange drag brake kit, so it’s basically bolt on. Don’t use the c-clip eliminator kit if can avoid it.
Does the C-Clip eliminator kit leak?
 

CobraSam

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All I can tell you is mine eventually started seeping and a few friends also. They work for sure and you very well might make it not leak for you. That wasn’t the case for me.
 

termcobra281

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All I can tell you is mine eventually started seeping and a few friends also. They work for sure and you very well might make it not leak for you. That wasn’t the case for me.
I've heard of this happening often which makes me worry. Whats the best way to convert it?
 

96dreamer

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Sounds like this would be the best way to go. I am sure they are a good savings in this set up. Can I ask what shop did the set up?
Unfortunately the shop I used is long gone. It was a small shop outside of st.louis. I did have to shim out the caliper with a few washers but nothing extreme. It's been on the car for about 10 years with no major issues. I had an issue with the bearings seeping but put a generic axle tube seal in and have been golden since

Sent from my SM-G991U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

termcobra281

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Unfortunately the shop I used is long gone. It was a small shop outside of st.louis. I did have to shim out the caliper with a few washers but nothing extreme. It's been on the car for about 10 years with no major issues. I had an issue with the bearings seeping but put a generic axle tube seal in and have been golden since

Sent from my SM-G991U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I have research some and seems most people just try to match a axle seal in there. I did however discover wildrides makes a coil over kit that does not require you to remove the gas tank or spare tire. I was pretty excited to find them. I didnt wanna remove anything but looks like there is a kit now to keep the car in stock form. I just need to do some planning. I really like the plan of narrowing the axles to get some nice dish on the rear wheels as I hate those 6.5 backspacing wheels to be honest.
 

biminiLX

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A spool is not your friend on the street. You will hate it
Partially true but it depends on the tires and what you’re able to tolerate. On bias plys it’s easier but a Detroit Locker or even the CF clutch packed Strange 35 is usually a better choice unless you’re used to hardcore.
-J
 

Bullitt1448

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If it was my build, with 1000hp goal I would do a fabricated housing with a real 9inch, available in any length you want, you could have the center section of your choand change then easily to suit different conditions. My car is a street car no where near that serious so I have an 8.8, 3.73’s and 31’s with a Detroit locker
 

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