Up for sale is my 1972 Ford Mustang Coupe. I’ve had the car for 8 years now and have completely gone through the entire car from one end to the other. I really hate to sale it, but I never spend any time with it anymore due to having a full time day job and owning my own business. I want to get into a 2012-2013 Mustang so I can drive it more and actually be able to enjoy it. Asking price is $15,000, but I easily have double that in it. I haven’t put more than 5,000 miles on the car since I’ve had it… and it was basically stock for most of those miles, so most of the mods are new and have been done within the last 2500 miles or so. Getting right down to it, it is basically a streetable race car. I have spent a lot of time getting the car to perform at its best, yet still be able to drive anywhere at any time. Let me start off with a spec sheet of the car.
Engine:
352 Cu. In. stroker (8.2” deck)
Eagle Rotating assembly, fully balanced
Speed Pro Pistons
Forged I beam rods w/ ARP bolts
Steel Crankshaft
High nickel block
Main Stud girdle with windage tray
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads
Camshaft; Lift: .555/.570, Adv. Duration: 274/286, Duration @ .050: 224/236, 110* Lobe separation
Hardened Pushrods
Aluminum Roller Rockers
Double roller timing chain
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
Ford Racing Tall Polished Aluminum Valve covers
ARP hardware throughout
Fuel and Induction:
Barry Grant Mighty Demon 650 mech secondary carb
Holley Blue Pump & Regulator
All -6 AN braided fuel lines
Nitrous Express Plate system currently setup for 150 shot but can support up to 250
NOS automatic bottle heater
Ignition:
MSD Pro Billet RTR distributor
MSD 6AL box with 6400 RPM rev limiter pill
MSD Blaster 3 coil
MSD 9mm super conductor wires
MSD timing retard controller (used to pull timing during a nitrous pull)
Exhaust:
Heddman Ceramic Coated Headers
Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Tailpipes all the way out the back for the best possible sound
Transmission:
Dynamic Racing Mighty Mite C4
Fully built with every option available (rated for around 1000 HP)
Hardened input shaft
6 pinion planetary
Alto red clutches and bands
Reverse manual valve body with trans brake
Boss Hog 3000 RPM stall converter, anti ballooning plate and welded fins
Big Trans cooler
Rear axle:
Ford 8.8 (SN-95 style)
Moser 31 spline axle shafts
Auburn Pro series posi unit
3.73 gears
Chassis, Brakes, and Suspension:
Chassis is mostly stock…
Rear springs are 4.5 leaf street/strip style from Mustangs Ulimited (new)
Slapper bars
Front springs are stock
Stock Style shocks (recently replaced)
Stock style front disc brakes (car was originally drum all the way around)
SN-95 rear disc brakes
Stock style power booster and master cylinder
Body Exterior:
Mostly stock
Factory Paint color, Medium Bright Yellow with black vinyl top
American Racing Torque thrust 2 polished aluminum wheels, 15x7 front, 15x8 rear
BFG Radial T/A front tires
Hoosier 28x10.50 slicks out back
Body Interior:
Stock style seats
B&M Pro Ratchet Shifter in stock console
Tach & Shift Light on steering column
Auto Meter Gauges in Mach 1 dash bezel
The car is in great shape and even considering the race style parts, I can drive this car anywhere as it is. I have driven it as far as Birmingham, Nashville, Knoxville, Gatlinburg, Atlanta, etc and I live in Chattanooga. Never had any issues with the car getting there, it’s very reliable. The odometer is showing around 27,000 miles, but I don’t have any idea if they are actual or not. The transmission and converter are brand new, maybe have 150 miles on them. Nitrous system is exactly the same. It has been to the ¼ mile track in Steele, Alabama 1 time on the nitrous and made about 5 passes or so. Best time was 11.31 @ 118 MPH with a 1.56 60 ft time. Car dead hooks even leaving on the nitrous. You could easily throw in some race gas and Jet it up to a 250 shot and run in the tens all day. The car has been professionally dyno tuned and was set up SAFE on pump gas. I don’t like dogging things or pushing the limits of parts so I was easy on it.
The car was repainted in 2008 by a reputable body shop in Chattanooga. Car was completely taken apart (all glass, lights, grille, chrome, etc taken off) for the work, no junk here. Paint and body work was over $6000 alone. Car looks as good today as it did then, always garage kept and hasn’t seen a single drop of rain since it left the body shop. All of the floor pans are original and in great shape. No rust at all. A very solid car indeed. Nothing was welded on the car, and all factory parts are included, so it could be returned to 100% factory if someone wasnted to. I literally have EVERY stock part that came off of the car.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at 423- six one nine -4085 or shoot me an email at [email protected], my name is Tyler. Price might be a little negotiable, but keep in mind that the asking price only covers what I have in the drive train. I understand that I’ll never get what I’ve got in it back out of it, but I’m not going to give it away either. However, I do welcome offers and we can go from there.
If there is anything else you'd like to see, just let me know. I will be taking a video of it running this weekend, and I'll upload it then.
Engine:
352 Cu. In. stroker (8.2” deck)
Eagle Rotating assembly, fully balanced
Speed Pro Pistons
Forged I beam rods w/ ARP bolts
Steel Crankshaft
High nickel block
Main Stud girdle with windage tray
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads
Camshaft; Lift: .555/.570, Adv. Duration: 274/286, Duration @ .050: 224/236, 110* Lobe separation
Hardened Pushrods
Aluminum Roller Rockers
Double roller timing chain
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
Ford Racing Tall Polished Aluminum Valve covers
ARP hardware throughout
Fuel and Induction:
Barry Grant Mighty Demon 650 mech secondary carb
Holley Blue Pump & Regulator
All -6 AN braided fuel lines
Nitrous Express Plate system currently setup for 150 shot but can support up to 250
NOS automatic bottle heater
Ignition:
MSD Pro Billet RTR distributor
MSD 6AL box with 6400 RPM rev limiter pill
MSD Blaster 3 coil
MSD 9mm super conductor wires
MSD timing retard controller (used to pull timing during a nitrous pull)
Exhaust:
Heddman Ceramic Coated Headers
Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
Tailpipes all the way out the back for the best possible sound
Transmission:
Dynamic Racing Mighty Mite C4
Fully built with every option available (rated for around 1000 HP)
Hardened input shaft
6 pinion planetary
Alto red clutches and bands
Reverse manual valve body with trans brake
Boss Hog 3000 RPM stall converter, anti ballooning plate and welded fins
Big Trans cooler
Rear axle:
Ford 8.8 (SN-95 style)
Moser 31 spline axle shafts
Auburn Pro series posi unit
3.73 gears
Chassis, Brakes, and Suspension:
Chassis is mostly stock…
Rear springs are 4.5 leaf street/strip style from Mustangs Ulimited (new)
Slapper bars
Front springs are stock
Stock Style shocks (recently replaced)
Stock style front disc brakes (car was originally drum all the way around)
SN-95 rear disc brakes
Stock style power booster and master cylinder
Body Exterior:
Mostly stock
Factory Paint color, Medium Bright Yellow with black vinyl top
American Racing Torque thrust 2 polished aluminum wheels, 15x7 front, 15x8 rear
BFG Radial T/A front tires
Hoosier 28x10.50 slicks out back
Body Interior:
Stock style seats
B&M Pro Ratchet Shifter in stock console
Tach & Shift Light on steering column
Auto Meter Gauges in Mach 1 dash bezel
The car is in great shape and even considering the race style parts, I can drive this car anywhere as it is. I have driven it as far as Birmingham, Nashville, Knoxville, Gatlinburg, Atlanta, etc and I live in Chattanooga. Never had any issues with the car getting there, it’s very reliable. The odometer is showing around 27,000 miles, but I don’t have any idea if they are actual or not. The transmission and converter are brand new, maybe have 150 miles on them. Nitrous system is exactly the same. It has been to the ¼ mile track in Steele, Alabama 1 time on the nitrous and made about 5 passes or so. Best time was 11.31 @ 118 MPH with a 1.56 60 ft time. Car dead hooks even leaving on the nitrous. You could easily throw in some race gas and Jet it up to a 250 shot and run in the tens all day. The car has been professionally dyno tuned and was set up SAFE on pump gas. I don’t like dogging things or pushing the limits of parts so I was easy on it.
The car was repainted in 2008 by a reputable body shop in Chattanooga. Car was completely taken apart (all glass, lights, grille, chrome, etc taken off) for the work, no junk here. Paint and body work was over $6000 alone. Car looks as good today as it did then, always garage kept and hasn’t seen a single drop of rain since it left the body shop. All of the floor pans are original and in great shape. No rust at all. A very solid car indeed. Nothing was welded on the car, and all factory parts are included, so it could be returned to 100% factory if someone wasnted to. I literally have EVERY stock part that came off of the car.
If you have any questions, feel free to contact me at 423- six one nine -4085 or shoot me an email at [email protected], my name is Tyler. Price might be a little negotiable, but keep in mind that the asking price only covers what I have in the drive train. I understand that I’ll never get what I’ve got in it back out of it, but I’m not going to give it away either. However, I do welcome offers and we can go from there.
If there is anything else you'd like to see, just let me know. I will be taking a video of it running this weekend, and I'll upload it then.
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