6R80 Swap...Real Details

BigPoppa

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I bought a 2013 that had an engine swap and the 7007 plate was left off. I have the plate plan on doing the work. I bet it throws a p0315 code and requires a relearn. But it seems to also shim the starter as my starter when warm/hot will occasionally not make contact with the flex plate. OR my bendix is just not coming out and starter is spinning up. I don't hear grinding just spinning I THINK.

This has been a great write up thus far. I am curios I have a 2013 F-150 5.0 and a 6r80 transmission. Mine did NOT come with SST (select shift transmission) I am only getting the run around from Ford Service and Ford corporate on activating SST. I have a new instrument cluster (salvage from what that had SST) and a new shifter with the + - buttons. How do I now activate SST? DO I need the strategy of one that has it? Can I only do it with an IDS? Can I find out my "would be strategy" Can I use a VIN of a "twin" truck with SST to find out ITS shift strategy and dump it into mine if I get an IDS? If so, how? All the tune shops even are saying talk to Ford, Ford says we can't Ford locks us out.
Since I haven't had a chance to get back in the garage and keep going with pictures, etc., due to a torn meniscus in my knee, I'm going to answer this one the best I can.

I'm assuming your ECU is from a '13-'14 Mustang Automatic.

First, get on Ebay or Autotrader and start searching cars that match a '13-'14 with all the options that your car has with the automatic trans.

Once you find one, copy the VIN.

Then, go here:
https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do
and select "Vehicle" from the top menu.

Enter the VIN of the car you found in your internet search.

The website will give you all the "as-built" data of that car.

You'll use that to enter the necessary ABS and transmission "as-built" codes into the VCM II and load into the ECU via the ALDL port under the dash.

It is the "as-built" codes that will activate the select-shift function as that is handled solely by the computer.

The valve strategy is simply to let the computer know what the flow rates of the valves are that the transmission was built with so the computer can calculate shift times, etc., correctly.
 

dhonnoll

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Horn Lake, MS
Since I haven't had a chance to get back in the garage and keep going with pictures, etc., due to a torn meniscus in my knee, I'm going to answer this one the best I can.

I'm assuming your ECU is from a '13-'14 Mustang Automatic.

First, get on Ebay or Autotrader and start searching cars that match a '13-'14 with all the options that your car has with the automatic trans.

Once you find one, copy the VIN.

Then, go here:
https://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do
and select "Vehicle" from the top menu.

Enter the VIN of the car you found in your internet search.

The website will give you all the "as-built" data of that car.

You'll use that to enter the necessary ABS and transmission "as-built" codes into the VCM II and load into the ECU via the ALDL port under the dash.

It is the "as-built" codes that will activate the select-shift function as that is handled solely by the computer.

The valve strategy is simply to let the computer know what the flow rates of the valves are that the transmission was built with so the computer can calculate shift times, etc., correctly.
That is EXACTLY what I am looking for. I have a Vin of the black twin of my truck that DOES have everything I want but don't have. It is VERY similar, same year, same option package, same transmission, same drive train, same engine, same cab size. It just has Limited slip (the PCM couldn't give 2 pa-doo-doos about that) it has Sync basic (I plan to add that) It has towing (which is the Select Shift). Thanks perfect this is EXACTLY what I want. I can get my BCM and ICM and all that stuff via Forscan I guess since I found a dealership willing to give it a shot he just doesn't have as built data to add to it. THIS IS SO AWESOME THANK YOU!!!!!!


One other dumb question though. If I do that, is that not going to change my admin keys and PATS info or does PATS stay in tact as I dump this as built data to it? Will IDS differentiate what is transmsmission vs the rest of it? Sorry I am a forscan user and never used IDS yet I might have to buy a VCM II device with a trial version of IDS
 
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dhonnoll

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so I am closer anyway When I enter the VIN of the software desired I go to Changes and Upgrades and get the following:
The information you have requested is not available at this time
When I go to Summary I get the following:
FO_RGB-90x46.gif
eTISLogo-100x46.gif

A FordEtis error has occurred.
We are sorry that an error has occurred within the FordEtis application.
This error may be temporary, please click back in your browser to try the operation again or to use alternative FordEtis functionality.

The Message from the error is:
com.ford.etis.ETISException: No matching key found.

Is this software missing on my PC? Or is this because I am an "independent shop" and not a dealer service department or is it because I have to purchase the information? Or do I have to have a VCM II device connected to the PC and to the desired vehicle to get the software? Sorry I am a total noob to this but I want to learn. This has been SO SO SO Helpful.
 

heart_attack

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So what do I say to the dealer Monday when I take my car to have it programmed? Do I just tell them it’s a brand new pcm that needs to be flashed? (It is new) But give them a vin from a auto car with the same options?
 

BigPoppa

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So what do I say to the dealer Monday when I take my car to have it programmed? Do I just tell them it’s a brand new pcm that needs to be flashed? (It is new) But give them a vin from a auto car with the same options?
No, you still use your VIN, but you will need to provide them the as-built codes.

If they use the as-built codes for your car as it came from the factory, you will have basically a copy of your original computer.
 

heart_attack

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No, you still use your VIN, but you will need to provide them the as-built codes.

If they use the as-built codes for your car as it came from the factory, you will have basically a copy of your original computer.

I think I’m with ya now. I just need to find a car with the same options, plus a 6r80, and Just hand them the printout? In my case the only option I had was 3.73’s. (3.31 now) I doubt the gears will matter since I can change them with the X4. Thanks for the info.
 

BigPoppa

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I think I’m with ya now. I just need to find a car with the same options, plus a 6r80, and Just hand them the printout? In my case the only option I had was 3.73’s. (3.31 now) I doubt the gears will matter since I can change them with the X4. Thanks for the info.
That is correct!
 

Jetpower

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Any more updates we currently did a 6r80 swap in my 2017 GT and having issues with the as built data and abs keeps kicking on sending me into limp mode.
How is your car now?
Somehow i would like to get a 6R80 from F-150 into my Mustang GT15-17. Did you face any problem? Can the transmission be fitted without any mod to the bellhousing or casing?
 

VADEi2

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How is your car now?
Somehow i would like to get a 6R80 from F-150 into my Mustang GT15-17. Did you face any problem? Can the transmission be fitted without any mod to the bellhousing or casing?
Well we just had to get the vin from a similar car and features. Car is up and running. Just have to get the right as built data and get it programmed with the auto ECU.
 

BigPoppa

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Ok, I know updates are slow coming. Mostly because I'm usually out of town for work.

So, I've updated the parts list with a few part numbers and I've been doing some more research.

I'm trying to break down the strategy codes and have figured out two of them already.

WYN3 is a 6R80 strategy for 2013
WYN4 is a 6R80 strategy for 2014

I need to find the strategy codes for the 2011 and the 2012 now. I will post all the strategy codes once I finish deciphering them.

In addition to the part numbers, I've also included prices for the various parts based on quotes from LKQOnline and Tasca. LKQ is a great source for used transmissions and unless otherwise noted, include the original torque converter for those of you who want the OEM.

I've also updated minor mistakes in information.

I will update more part numbers and more info this weekend. I'm just about wrapped up on building my new block, so I should be able to begin the process of documenting the swap with pics and step by step instructions.

2011 and 2012 guys, I will be updating the info to reflect the differences between the swap for '13-'14 cars and '11-'12 cars.

So much to do, so little time.
 
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oxmanwi

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So i have a F150 2014 6R80 with a 2013 GT engine. I just had the transmission rebuilt with the PBH clutchs and shaft. I also had the newer oil pump installed since i was told the 2015 and newer pump is better than the 2011-14.

I went to put the transmission back on today and the bell housing will not seat flush with the engine. I found this article on the net and read that the torque converter hub is different between years? Previously i had the 2014 pump and TC, now i have a 2015 pump.
 

BigPoppa

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So i have a F150 2014 6R80 with a 2013 GT engine. I just had the transmission rebuilt with the PBH clutchs and shaft. I also had the newer oil pump installed since i was told the 2015 and newer pump is better than the 2011-14.

I went to put the transmission back on today and the bell housing will not seat flush with the engine. I found this article on the net and read that the torque converter hub is different between years? Previously i had the 2014 pump and TC, now i have a 2015 pump.
From Transmission Digest:
"Pump: Initially, there were subtle changes to the 6R60/6R75 pumps that did not amount to much, although there were some part-number supersessions to contend with. The big change came about with the launch of the 6R80 due to a change with the input shaft and TCC feed. The easiest way to distinguish between the two designs is that the 6R60/6R75 stator support has a front bushing, whereas the 6R80 does not and the 6R80 bore is larger.

The 6R pump is somewhat different from other transmissions, in that, instead of a simple pump body and cover, the 6R has a small cast-iron pump body, an aluminum pump cover and an intermediate plate that the stator shaft bolts into. The original Ford service part number for the 6R60 was 6L2Z–7A103AA, which was later superseded to 6L2Z–7A103C. The original part number for the 6R80 pump was 9L3Z–7A103A; however, Ford decided to make a couple of design changes that impacts only the 6R80.

A new replacement pump for the 6R80 is OE part number BL3Z-7A103B, which services models up to March 31, 2014 (Figure 1). Another new part number had been released for April 1, 2014-up models and is OE part number FL3Z-7A103A. There is little difference when comparing the aluminum castings from the original 6R80 pump to the newer versions. The main difference between the 2014 applications has to do with the pump body and gears. Unlike previous models of 6R60/6R80 pumps that used a caged bearing to ride against the torque converter hub, both of the newer applications use a pump-body bushing (Figure 2A). Previous design pumps were only available as complete assemblies; whereas the upgraded designs are now also available as the pump body only under part numbers BL3Z-7A104-A and FL3Z-7A104-C respectively.

The modification of the pump gears has to do with the pump-gear drivers. Ford followed the ZF lead initially, meaning that the pump inner gear had drive lugs like GM or Chrysler, which was contrary to what Ford had normally done. That changed with the late 2014 pump gear, which now has flats instead of drive lugs, (Figure 2B). The new gears are now the same as the other Ford units.

Use caution when ordering the replacement pump so that it matches the torque-converter hub design."

https://transmissiondigest.com/Cont...g-Ford-6R60-6R80-Component-Upgrades-/-3/48/49
 
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CV302

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Since I haven't had a chance to get back in the garage and keep going with pictures, etc., due to a torn meniscus in my knee, I'm going to answer this one the best I can.

I'm assuming your ECU is from a '13-'14 Mustang Automatic.

First, get on Ebay or Autotrader and start searching cars that match a '13-'14 with all the options that your car has with the automatic trans.

Once you find one, copy the VIN.

Then, go here:
Vehicle Lookup
and select "Vehicle" from the top menu.

Enter the VIN of the car you found in your internet search.

The website will give you all the "as-built" data of that car.

You'll use that to enter the necessary ABS and transmission "as-built" codes into the VCM II and load into the ECU via the ALDL port under the dash.

It is the "as-built" codes that will activate the select-shift function as that is handled solely by the computer.

The valve strategy is simply to let the computer know what the flow rates of the valves are that the transmission was built with so the computer can calculate shift times, etc., correctly.
So my car is driving just fine but the select shift doesn't seem to work any idea?
 

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