Anyone done this? How difficult is it? Any kits available, if so how much$ Any tips would be great.
5 lug conversion?
- Thread starter JParm93
- Start date
I haven't done a conversion on a Cobra yet but I have done several other Fox body Mustangs and I have always used kits from Baer Racing with great success. You can also use the FRPP M2300 Kit as well but I would recommend the Baer kit. They have recently reduced the prices on their kits and they now also include the necessary 5 lug rear axles. Good luck!!
TcM-668
New Member
I recently converted my 93 GT Conv to 5 lug using the 94 spindles/axles etc. I got the parts from Daves Mustang parts and it truly was plug and play.
2 minor problems.
I have to install a spacer in the passenger side of the steering rack to limit wheel travel to the left, as the 17x8 Bullit wheels scrub against the lower control arm.
I chose to go with 17x9 Bullit style wheels and 275x40x17 tires in the back, and with the Steeda Stage 3 G-Trac kit and the 94 axles, it lowered the car enough and pushed the tire out to the edge of the wheel well, that the driver side wheel well lip contacts the tire.
I put the Tokico shocks on setting 5 for full firm, but it still rubs.
I took the soft hammer approach to the wheel well lip, but it still touches. I am hoping the adjustable sway bar will resolve some of that, and stiffen the rear enough so that it wont happen any more.
I really like the look of the 17x9s in the back as it gives the car a very aggressive look from the back, and don't want to go to 17x8s if I don't have to.
Just my $ .02 worth.
Don
00 R #152
93 GT Conv
93 LX Coupe
92 Honda Accord EX Wagon
89 Isuzu I-Mark Hatch SunSport
2 minor problems.
I have to install a spacer in the passenger side of the steering rack to limit wheel travel to the left, as the 17x8 Bullit wheels scrub against the lower control arm.
I chose to go with 17x9 Bullit style wheels and 275x40x17 tires in the back, and with the Steeda Stage 3 G-Trac kit and the 94 axles, it lowered the car enough and pushed the tire out to the edge of the wheel well, that the driver side wheel well lip contacts the tire.
I put the Tokico shocks on setting 5 for full firm, but it still rubs.
I took the soft hammer approach to the wheel well lip, but it still touches. I am hoping the adjustable sway bar will resolve some of that, and stiffen the rear enough so that it wont happen any more.
I really like the look of the 17x9s in the back as it gives the car a very aggressive look from the back, and don't want to go to 17x8s if I don't have to.
Just my $ .02 worth.
Don
00 R #152
93 GT Conv
93 LX Coupe
92 Honda Accord EX Wagon
89 Isuzu I-Mark Hatch SunSport
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2002
- Messages
- 20
Ok here it goes, i did my homework on this one. Well me and a friend that i almost drove insane with questions every day. Same as the post above. 94/95 spindles/hubs and i ordered a set of axles from summit for SN95. Cant get the axles for a regular fox body GT or LX cuz the cobras are 1/2" longer because of the rear disc brakes, and now for the best advice of all, visit www.discbrakesrus.com and check out their kits. I ordered the drilled/slotted 13" front brake kit w/ powder coated cobra calipers and im working on the rear kit now. If you are keeping stock brakes, just get a set of factory replacement rotors and take them to a machine shop along w/ an axle and have them redrilled to fit the 5 lug axles. thats what i did with the rear for now and its working just fine. I went w/ tokico struts/shocks, motorsport C springs and i have no clearance problems at all.
you can save money on the front by just replacing the rotors with a set from FRPP. If you go this way you won't have to replace the master cylinder. You won't have an actual "upgrade" in the front but you'll be able to use 5 lug wheels. But overall you notice a big improvement in braking with the disc set up in the rear.
TcM-668:
the bullitt wheels dont have the correct offset for fox body's. You probably already know this though. FRPP offers 95 cobra R with the correct offset specifically for 5 lug conversions. that way no spacers or other mods are required.
TcM-668:
the bullitt wheels dont have the correct offset for fox body's. You probably already know this though. FRPP offers 95 cobra R with the correct offset specifically for 5 lug conversions. that way no spacers or other mods are required.
TcM-668
New Member
My 93 GT wheel / suspension issues
Welp...
I finally got my head out of my a** and figured out what happened.
OK. The 94 and up GT/V6 spindles, axles, etc provide more width in wheel track. Not much, but with enough tolerance overlap, things can get messy. Mine was probobly the worst case of everything.
1) I installed the Steeda X2 lower ball joints. They raise the front spindle about 1/2". With the included spacer, they add 1/4" lowering. I got these because they indicate that it helps with bump steer, and were for 94 and up lowered cars.
2) Steeda Stage 1-3 springs. About 1.5" - 2" lowering.
We are well into the 2"+ range for lowering, and then add the added width to the wheel track, and it is a mess up front.
3) the 94 and up Axles add 1.5" to the rear wheel track. If it were not for that, everything would be just fine. I can't use the Ranger axles because it would change the caliper-disk location.
A place called North Cobra has different mounting brackets that would allow me to go to the Ranger axles, but I have heard that they are not as strong as the Mustang ones, so I would want to buy aftermaket axles and that costs extra money.
The Bullitt wheels do add to the problem because of the backspacing, (even wider wheel track) but for the look, I will deal with that.
I plan on putting the old springs back in, and raise it back up. I think it will be OK after that. I plan on taking out the spring spacers too. Then I should have about 1" of lowering, and I would be happy with that, and that should cure my scrub issues.
Thanks guys.
Welp...
I finally got my head out of my a** and figured out what happened.
OK. The 94 and up GT/V6 spindles, axles, etc provide more width in wheel track. Not much, but with enough tolerance overlap, things can get messy. Mine was probobly the worst case of everything.
1) I installed the Steeda X2 lower ball joints. They raise the front spindle about 1/2". With the included spacer, they add 1/4" lowering. I got these because they indicate that it helps with bump steer, and were for 94 and up lowered cars.
2) Steeda Stage 1-3 springs. About 1.5" - 2" lowering.
We are well into the 2"+ range for lowering, and then add the added width to the wheel track, and it is a mess up front.
3) the 94 and up Axles add 1.5" to the rear wheel track. If it were not for that, everything would be just fine. I can't use the Ranger axles because it would change the caliper-disk location.
A place called North Cobra has different mounting brackets that would allow me to go to the Ranger axles, but I have heard that they are not as strong as the Mustang ones, so I would want to buy aftermaket axles and that costs extra money.
The Bullitt wheels do add to the problem because of the backspacing, (even wider wheel track) but for the look, I will deal with that.
I plan on putting the old springs back in, and raise it back up. I think it will be OK after that. I plan on taking out the spring spacers too. Then I should have about 1" of lowering, and I would be happy with that, and that should cure my scrub issues.
Thanks guys.
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