5.8L GT500 Rod Failure

MrAjsTech

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Andrew, I am curious to see some data on that IC core. You made mention that IAT's were nice and cool at 77* so the core was working great, but you were looking at IAT1.
Can you advise how IAT2 is looking as that shows effectiveness of the core.
I think I might have misspoke. I am used to S550s since iat becomes iat2 with the maf breakout harness. I am going to make an update on the lower and temps after we dyno the car. I am seeing very different activity with iat2 temps. Rapid rising and falling. It makes sense without the bypass area but I want to do some more testing before saying something for sure.
 

Catmonkey

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With high duration camshafts with a lot of overlap, you will run higher lower manifold (IAT2) temps than you would with a stock camshaft, at least at low load, low rpm operation.
 

Cman01

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Any leads on a good socket that the rubber doesnt fall out? I swear every single one I have purchased they come out and I am stuck digging in with needlenose every cylinder to fish it back out for the next one

I've had my 5/8" spark plug socket for like over 30+ years since I first got my new 89 5.0 LX fox body Mustang. I believe it's a Gray tools socket.

Gray Tools

It's nothing special, probably works as well as a fancy Snap on one without the price. Hell, I've used it on that car, my 96 Formula, C6 Z06 and the GT500 never a problem with the rubber piece falling out (not a big deal with the other cars but obviously will be a problem with the Shelby with the plugs deep down into the head).

Maybe do some kind of glue/epoxy thing inside the socket and place the rubber piece back in there if it likes to fall out?
 

PM-Performance

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I've had my 5/8" spark plug socket for like over 30+ years since I first got my new 89 5.0 LX fox body Mustang. I believe it's a Gray tools socket.

Gray Tools

It's nothing special, probably works as well as a fancy Snap on one without the price. Hell, I've used it on that car, my 96 Formula, C6 Z06 and the GT500 never a problem with the rubber piece falling out (not a big deal with the other cars but obviously will be a problem with the Shelby with the plugs deep down into the head).

Maybe do some kind of glue/epoxy thing inside the socket and place the rubber piece back in there if it likes to fall out?

Yea I just replaced my old one probably in the last 2 years and probably only pulled plugs a handful of times and it just started pulling out yesterday.
I googled after that last post and found some magnetic ones and one that has like a clip inside it to hold the plug I may try out. For some reason those rubber pieces don't ever stay in place for me.
 

SHIFTYBUSINESS

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I put the plug in the plug socket lightly get it screwed in finger tight so I can get it out without the rubber insert staying on the plug. Then I use a regular socket to tighten it the rest of the way.
 

SteveWK

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Nothing like having to back the spark plug back out to get the rubber boot back. I just had a thought though, why not glue the rubber boot in the socket. I think I'm going to give that a shot.
 

MrAjsTech

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Well there has been some time since I last updated the thread. We got a Lethal Triple Pump Return Fuel System installed in the car and I managed to get a 3rd to 4th gear pull in. Palm Beach Dyno had the base tune on point!


We got the car on the Dyno and it made some impressive power! 1144RWHP 965RWT on the 2.4" 10% Lower

 

Klaus

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Well there has been some time since I last updated the thread. We got a Lethal Triple Pump Return Fuel System installed in the car and I managed to get a 3rd to 4th gear pull in. Palm Beach Dyno had the base tune on point!


We got the car on the Dyno and it made some impressive power! 1144RWHP 965RWT on the 2.4" 10% Lower


Monster. What CR and boost?
 

MrAjsTech

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Monster. What CR and boost?

Here is a basic write up of the car. 10:5:1 and tested and saw 21 PSI on 2.6 Upper and 10% Lower and 23 PSI on 2.4 10% Lower. I am going to post the Graphs as well.

2014 Shelby GT500
Modular Head Shop Built 5.8L Engine: Diamond Pistons, Molnar Power Adder Rods, ARP Hardware, Sleeved, 10:5:1 Compression, Cometic Head Gasket, MHS OPG, Boundary Crank Sprocket, Shelby Mike Racing Timing Chain Guides, Acufab Secondary chains and tensioner upgrades. MHS Ported Heads, Beehive Valve Springs, Retainers, Valve Job, MHS Stage 3 Cams. Cobra Jet Crank. Blue Printed and Balanced.

Ported Lower GT500 Intake Manifold with bypass area delete and intercooler area widened. VMP Performance Intercooler upgrade.

VMP Performance Gen 3 R Stage 3 Port
2.6 Upper and 2.4 upper tested
ATI 10% Lower Balancer
VMP 163R Throttle Body
VMP Triple Pass Heat Exchanger
170 T Stat

Lethal Performance Inc Triple Pump Fuel System
ID1300CC Injectors

JLT Performance 148MM Cold Air Intake
JLT Performance Oil Separator

LTH Exhaust 1 7/8" Longtube Headers, 3" X-Pipe, 3" Catback with QTP Cutouts

Not Power related but BMR Suspension and Viking Performance, Inc. helps put the power down to the ground. BMR Upper and Lower Control Arms, BMR DS Loop, BMR K-Member, BMR Pan hard bar, Viking Crusaders.

Mantic Clutch USA Triple Disc Clutch

Stock TR6060
Stock Rear End
 

MrAjsTech

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Dyno Sheet with Boost. Red line = 2.4 Blue Line = 2.6.

The 2.4 made some great power but it does seem to run out up top. I am guessing we are starting to get out of the efficiency range. Still very impressive power. I decided to put the 2.6 back on to drive the car around. I want to do some more street driving with the lower manifold and gather more data.

Lower manifold notes: The IAT2 drops drastically while doing a WOT pull but they do start high. With the bypass area deleted the IAT2 reading will read as high as 180-190 degrees at idle and as soon as the throttle body opens it will rapidly fall to 120-130 degrees (in Florida 95-100 degree heat). The impressive part is that the IAT2 may start during a pull at 140 it will actually drop before rising. I want to gather some data logs together when I get a chance and post some graphs.

224122299689_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_sid=8024bb&_nc_ohc=uOYQISNnrCUAX-a7dZU&_nc_ht=scontent-mia3-2.jpg
 

MrAjsTech

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And one final post for today. It appears the TR6060 has bitten the dust. After the final pull on the dyno we got the car off the dyno and put it in the trailer. I got the car off the trailer next day and while driving at low speed I heard a slight clunking while in gear. I checked over the car and couldn't find anything. Went out onto the street and I couldn't really hear the noise. I laid into it in 2nd gear (holy shit it was fast) and when I let off a very loud banging coming from underneath the car. I have narrowed it down to the transmission. I will post some video from the pull and diagnosing the car tomorrow. I talked to Ben Calimer and he said more than likely the 4th gear basically stripped itself and the input and primary cluster are hurt. The trans fluid was nice and sparkly so I will be pulling the trans over the weekend and sending it out to get built.

Side note: What has everyone done to build the rear end without going too crazy? I don't want a spool and I don't want an extremely loud rear end. The goal with the car is a 1000+ hp street car that I can do some roll racing and occasional dig drag racing. I'm hoping to click off an 8 second pass at some point.
 

2011 gtcs

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Well there has been some time since I last updated the thread. We got a Lethal Triple Pump Return Fuel System installed in the car and I managed to get a 3rd to 4th gear pull in. Palm Beach Dyno had the base tune on point!


We got the car on the Dyno and it made some impressive power! 1144RWHP 965RWT on the 2.4" 10% Lower

Awesome numbers man, 1147whp is insane.
 

Klaus

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What has everyone done to build the rear end without going too crazy? I don't want a spool and I don't want an extremely loud rear end. The goal with the car is a 1000+ hp street car that I can do some roll racing and occasional dig drag racing. I'm hoping to click off an 8 second pass at some point

My build and power level is comparable to yours. In the rear I have welded 8.8 w/ tru trac and moser 31s. Gears are 3.73s. No issues thus far.
 

biminiLX

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First, badass results Andrew, congrats!
I’m preparing mine for a max power Dyno session like yours, so it was cool to see what I’m expecting. We have very similar combos and I made 1045rwhp on the regular Gen 3 last year. The car now has a max ported Gen 3R and a 2.4/15% lower combo so I’d expect at least 1100rwhp. It was great to see your boost levels as I don’t currently have a boost gauge and have been debating my options, such as Lund Racing’s boost box omega.
Anyway, one question—what timing did you see on the 2.4 testing?
Second, I toasted a Magnum XL last year (Seized input shaft) and it’s mainly due to me running it almost a quart low (it’s a FULL FOUR quarts), but D&D also was blunt that a car at this level doing 40-160+ pulls that I do must run a fluid pump to keep the main shaft and gears cooled. I am adapting this pump currently:
Tick Performance Hi-Flow Transmission Fluid Pump
I still have a mint 3000 mile 6060 from before I went big power (upgraded to Mag XL when I built the motor just for the SFI bell and direct mount shifter) if you decide you want something ASAP.
Third, to you and Klaus, you will NEVER get an 8.8 to live at the 4-digit level if you drag race at the track on a sticky tire. Listen to a guy that’s done it and built 3 8.8s or don’t and waste your time and money. Sell the 8.8 and go Strange 9”. I ran [email protected] in True Street last year in a full weight 4000# car with driver and have no whine. This is completely impossible with an 8.8 unfortunately.
Good luck fixing the trans, but congrats on that built 5.8 power!
-J
 

biminiLX

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My build and power level is comparable to yours. In the rear I have welded 8.8 w/ tru trac and moser 31s. Gears are 3.73s. No issues thus far.
See above. It’ll likely last on the street and rolls. The first time you go to the track on a tire will greet you with terrible whine on your drive home. This is absolute.
-J
 

rotor_powerd

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My 8.8 whined like crazy after the first few hits I made at the track, and I'm only at ~800 horse
 

MrAjsTech

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First, badass results Andrew, congrats!
I’m preparing mine for a max power Dyno session like yours, so it was cool to see what I’m expecting. We have very similar combos and I made 1045rwhp on the regular Gen 3 last year. The car now has a max ported Gen 3R and a 2.4/15% lower combo so I’d expect at least 1100rwhp. It was great to see your boost levels as I don’t currently have a boost gauge and have been debating my options, such as Lund Racing’s boost box omega.
Anyway, one question—what timing did you see on the 2.4 testing?
Second, I toasted a Magnum XL last year (Seized input shaft) and it’s mainly due to me running it almost a quart low (it’s a FULL FOUR quarts), but D&D also was blunt that a car at this level doing 40-160+ pulls that I do must run a fluid pump to keep the main shaft and gears cooled. I am adapting this pump currently:
Tick Performance Hi-Flow Transmission Fluid Pump
I still have a mint 3000 mile 6060 from before I went big power (upgraded to Mag XL when I built the motor just for the SFI bell and direct mount shifter) if you decide you want something ASAP.
Third, to you and Klaus, you will NEVER get an 8.8 to live at the 4-digit level if you drag race at the track on a sticky tire. Listen to a guy that’s done it and built 3 8.8s or don’t and waste your time and money. Sell the 8.8 and go Strange 9”. I ran [email protected] in True Street last year in a full weight 4000# car with driver and have no whine. This is completely impossible with an 8.8 unfortunately.
Good luck fixing the trans, but congrats on that built 5.8 power!
-J

Send me a texr 407-680-3494 on the Trans. Sounds like I'll be out for a few weeks while Ben fixes mine.
 

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