This part pretty much sums up everything we are trying to do. The purpose is to help educate and the understand of why things happen internally. The mechanics of these motors is key!
:beer:
5.0 Coyote Valve Spring Upgrade: Brands, size, and price
- Thread starter SteveG@Lethal
- Start date
This part pretty much sums up everything we are trying to do. The purpose is to help educate and the understand of why things happen internally. The mechanics of these motors is key!
:beer:
I know the topic has been discussed ad nauseum about running upgraded springs for higher rpm and boosted applications...but what about nitrous guys? Does nitrous affect valve float/loft like boosted cars do, or am I ok if I keep it below 7700 or so??? I've been turning it to 7500-7600 but snapped a rod, and now am installing a Livernois 11.5:1 shortblock (coated diamond pistons, h beam Manley rods) and already swapped to a mmr oil pump gear. I previously ran a 150 shot but am soon going to a 250 on the Nitrous Outlet plate. Am I skimping by not going to at least the boss springs or Livernois springs, or can I run it for now and swap springs when I swap cams in the near future?
On a build like that i think a boss spring would be a good upgrade for you.
If you plan on some larger cams later you might want to think about something different that way you can do the springs while the engine is apart. Its a giant paint to swap springs on the car. 20 hours or so if you measure everything.
Thanks for all the calls. Just wanted to show some of the Trick Flow "2" springs going out since this thread has started!!
Thanks for the business and doing what is right for your coyote builds!!!
Thanks for the business and doing what is right for your coyote builds!!!
on a twin kit, yours going to see issues over 800. Ask Bucket. Set of Trick Flow 2's going in his shortly.
the boss has a larger exhaust cam so i think that makes the issue worse
There some guys making 1000 on the boss springs with stock cams. which is more then that engine is supposed to make any way
i would not go through the trouble of changing them until you have an issue
Boom. That's all i wanted to know. I thought the Boss cams being more aggressive would affect valve float as well...
I knew i could count on you guys to clear all doubts. Thanks Eric.
no problem boss :beer:
Yeah. Ask bucket. Lol. Year beating on it 800+
Mmmmmmmmm
Mmmmmmmmm
If I we're not going for more than 700 I'd leave the top end stock. But I tend to reach for higher numbers so I don't see any point in compromising. No need in building a motor and half ass on a simple part like springs. In the grand scheme of building a motor that's a minor cost item. Bet if a spring caused you a issue you would see them as a more important part. I say take measures to attempt to not have to tear back into the motor. But for reliable lasting 700 rwhp all that's needed is good fuel supply & h-beams with forged pistons stock every thing else would be fine. If you were going beat it at the track at 700 I'd also do TSS billet gears in oil pump but some may argue on the oil pump gears. I've never had luck gambling with big power every time I gambled with my 3 valve I broke stuff.
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If you are talking very high hp the major issue is having a cam, valve, and follower strong enough to open the exhaust valve against ultra high combustion pressures. Many a valve stem buckled and rocker arms destroyed trying to open the exhaust valve too soon.
Also some talk about seat pressure. The spring only implies a force. Pressure in this case would be on the contact area between edge of valve and seat? Others talk of back pressure on the valve back face that can reduce closing pressure.
Which one is it? Seat force exerted by the spring? Pressure on the back face? Pressure on the combustion face?
Ps remember when jpc changed over to studs on the cam holders? Is that still an issue?
Great thread op, this is enlightening.
Also some talk about seat pressure. The spring only implies a force. Pressure in this case would be on the contact area between edge of valve and seat? Others talk of back pressure on the valve back face that can reduce closing pressure.
Which one is it? Seat force exerted by the spring? Pressure on the back face? Pressure on the combustion face?
Ps remember when jpc changed over to studs on the cam holders? Is that still an issue?
Great thread op, this is enlightening.
Ok, wut? I thought boss springs were not enough. So I'm confused, what power, hp, rpm, etc... Do the boss springs fail? Shawn thinks they are good to a limit, but at what point does jPC recommend replacement?
For a 500-600whp NA build that's stable to 8000+ RPM, preferably retaining full VCT operation range, would the Trickflow #1 or the Livernois be the best option?
Yes what im saying is if you're building an engine and installing springs i would not purchase Boss Springs. I would BUY something better.
A real Boss has a larger exhaust cam which can make the valve float issue come sooner then if you have stock GT cams.
If you have an aluminator (comes with boss springs) and its already in the car and running i wouldn't change springs just because.
There are some guys making 1000 on boss springs in their Aluminator how ever its not an ideal setup IMO.
All my comments are more for the guys that are building a short block and looking for a replacement spring.
Every combo will be a bit different so there is not real answer to when you should change. How ever if you have plans on 800 plus my suggestion would be livernoise or trickflow "1". if you have some big cams i would suggest a swap
there are many variables to this question. IF you want any specific answers you can email me [email protected] i would be more then happy to help you with your specific combo.
:beer:
Are you keeping it NA or spraying on top of that?
Pretty much sums up everything I would say.
I am here to help as well.
[email protected]
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