5.0 Coyote Valve Spring Upgrade: Brands, size, and price

[five.slow]

so the road runner is still out running the coyote? even with the coyote on a acme rocket?

seriously though good read on this thread. really helps to understand these cars and cams.

 

[stangn]

I know everyone likes to argue and trash another way of doing things but WTF!
Why would anyone spend big money on a power adder of any kind and justify the cheapest parts they can find to support it? Maybe this is why there is always a blown motor thread to read.

 

[Shiken_Feddas]

Reall good information on this thread. Thanks Shaun and Eric for bringing up some very good tech.

 

[VETTEHUNTER]

I know everyone likes to argue and trash another way of doing things but WTF!
Why would anyone spend big money on a power adder of any kind and justify the cheapest parts they can find to support it? Maybe this is why there is always a blown motor thread to read.

I don't think anyone is saying that at all. Shawn simply stated in the beginning that Boss components are more than adequate for for mildly modified street set-ups…and are definitely a step up from the stock coyote springs.

He never said or implied that Boss springs should be used on high hp; high psi motors. I think everyone would agree that if you are going all out with a high hp build, you most certainly want the best components available…which include in this argument…. the springs.

 

[VETTEHUNTER]

Reall good information on this thread. Thanks Shaun and Eric for bringing up some very good tech.

^^^This^^^

 

[stangn]

Ok, but all I'm saying is why look for the cheapest parts you can find when there are better options out there. It's a bit of work to change valve springs out for some that are mildly better, don't you think? Why not add a better spring to begin with, unless its more important to by something for the least amount of money you have to spend. If that's the case why spend 20-30 grand on a newer stang and just by an old fox body, parts are cheap and everywhere.

 

[VETTEHUNTER]

Ok, but all I'm saying is why look for the cheapest parts you can find when there are better options out there. It's a bit of work to change valve springs out for some that are mildly better, don't you think? Why not add a better spring to begin with, unless its more important to by something for the least amount of money you have to spend. If that's the case why spend 20-30 grand on a newer stang and just by an old fox body, parts are cheap and everywhere.

Yup. I see your point and agree 100% :beer:

 

[nonliberal]

Ok, but all I'm saying is why look for the cheapest parts you can find when there are better options out there. It's a bit of work to change valve springs out for some that are mildly better, don't you think? Why not add a better spring to begin with, unless its more important to by something for the least amount of money you have to spend. If that's the case why spend 20-30 grand on a newer stang and just by an old fox body, parts are cheap and everywhere.

I looked through every one of Shauns posts and not one time did he mention the price of the springs or refer to them as being cheaper. From all his posts it looks like he recommends them because they are good springs that are adequate to do their job without being too stiff which can cause problems with VCT function.

It's okay to disagree with him, but disagree with what he said instead of what he didn't say. :thumbsup:

 

[stangn]

Relax I'm not calling out anyone it's just a General statement, I thought this was a Discussion forum not the end all be all of mustang performance. It's ok to have our own opinion right? Didn't mean to hurt your feelings there sport.

 

[CPRsm]

I know everyone likes to argue and trash another way of doing things but WTF!
Why would anyone spend big money on a power adder of any kind and justify the cheapest parts they can find to support it? Maybe this is why there is always a blown motor thread to read.

Well it depends how you look at it. As a shop owner we all get to enjoy finding a customers happy medium building what it will take, without breaking the bank. A few hundred here, a few hundred there adds up quick. You can add titanium retainers for another 4-500. You don't NEED them, but they're better. I don't think you always need the best parts for mild job. 90% of guys in here run H beam rods. Manufacturer only rates them to 7-800 hp. But we all know they will do 1000rwhp all day long. But if we just knew there was better we'd spend 1500 dollars on billet rods. So there's always that need vs "would be nice to have" line to draw. Not saying a boss spring will be right for everyone by any means.

I thought the point of the hollow sodium filled valves on the Boss was to help with heat.

Yes and no. It's hollow to make it lighter. W less material to keep it cool, sodium is added to help with heat. They don't add sodium to help with heat because a solid valve can't do the job.

 

[nonliberal]

Relax I'm not calling out anyone it's just a General statement, I thought this was a Discussion forum not the end all be all of mustang performance. It's ok to have our own opinion right? Didn't mean to hurt your feelings there sport.

No feelings hurt at all. Like I said, feel free to agree or disagree with what was said or come up with something totally different. Just don't put words in someones mouth and make it about price when price was never mentioned. :shrug:

 

[stangn]

Wow your really butt hurt over this! Didn't say anyone was cheap, just doesn't make sence to me. He explained his point well with out you, even though it wasn't about him. He actually gets it and thanks to him for a valid explanation from a shops point of view.

Now for you insert a cactus and enjoy!!!!!!

 

[nonliberal]

Wow your really butt hurt over this! Didn't say anyone was cheap, just doesn't make sence to me.

Ok, but all I'm saying is why look for the cheapest parts you can find

WTF!
Why would anyone spend big money and justify the cheapest parts they can find Maybe this is why there is always a blown motor thread to read.

You're not very bright are you? In none of his statements did he say anything about cost, but in ALL of your statements you keep babbling about them being cheap.
When you add those statements along with your "WTF, Maybe this is why there is always a blown motor thread to read". You are implying that he is giving advice that is going to blow someones motor because it saves a few bucks and you are wrong because he never said it.

JPC, BBR, AED, CPR, all have valid reasoning and have their own backgrounds and testing under their belt. They are nice enough to share some of their first hand knowledge with us which moves the ball down the court for everyone. The opinions from all sides are presented and you can take or leave any of it you want, but if you keep throwing out bullshit and making everything a pissing match by twisting their statements so they have to spend all day correcting people they will eventually quit sharing their experience.

As for being butt hurt, I don't know any other way to tell you that I am not, I told you to disagree all you want. Your opinion is just as valid as everyone elses, (even though it's losing value the more you speak because you don't sound like the sharpest tool in the shed).

 

[86Fbody]

They don't add sodium to help with heat because a solid valve can't do the job.

This sentence is more confusing then explanatory.

 

[86Fbody]

One question then to any of the guru's; JPC, BBR, AED, which valves are good for stock cams with no power adder that are stronger then the stock valve springs. I have heard of a few instances of Boss motors breaking the valve springs while road racing.

 

[DSG2003SVT]

I'm not implying that you didn't understand that sentence, I just want to be of assistance if it's needed.

What he was saying is that a hollow stem valve needs sodium because there is less metal there to absorb heat.

A solid stem valve has enough metal to withstand the heat.

A sodium-filled valve doesn't deal with heat any better than a solid valve, it's just lighter.

 

[stangn]

I'm not the sharpest that's for sure! I'm done with this, I stand behind what I said and never mentioned anyone at all, so stop twisting this around. Sorry to BBR and others for clogging your thread with BS that is irrelevant to the tech on valve springs. Thanks to all who help explain there experience and knowledge. (Not me of coarse)
Nick

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

One question then to any of the guru's; JPC, BBR, AED, which valves are good for stock cams with no power adder that are stronger then the stock valve springs. I have heard of a few instances of Boss motors breaking the valve springs while road racing.

Honestly, if your not going into the motor, the stock ones are fine for the stock bottom end. The can make decent power. With only a small increas on the pressure with the BOSS, no need to buy or swap to them. If your building, then any other the other brands will work. But base the used spring off your set up/build.

I'm not the sharpest that's for sure! I'm done with this, I stand behind what I said and never mentioned anyone at all, so stop twisting this around. Sorry to BBR and others for clogging your thread with BS that is irrelevant to the tech on valve springs. Thanks to all who help explain there experience and knowledge. (Not me of coarse)
Nick

A few of us vendors just wanted to lend a helping hand the correct way. :beer:

 

[BUCKET]

Thanks Steve!

 

[nonliberal]

A few of us vendors just wanted to lend a helping hand the correct way. :beer:

Thanks for the great info!