5.0 Coyote Valve Spring Upgrade: Brands, size, and price

SteveG@Lethal

SteveG@Lethal

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Theirs a lot of talk lately as well as phone calls about the coyote valve springs. So to help you, here is a list of the different brands, prices, and size.

From what we have seen and others can agree, if your looking at anything north of 15psi, You will need the to run at least a 190lb open in order to keep the pressure where it needs to and will not cause the valves to float.

Stock GT= 59lbs (265N) to 146lbs (650N)

Boss 302= 67lbs (300N) to 157lbs (700N) RETAIL: $120.00

Livernois= 70lbs to 190lbs RETAIL: $319.99

MMR= 95lbs to 198lbs (includes retainers) RETAIL: $499.99

Trick Flow 1 = 80lbs to 180lbs RETAIL: $319.00

Trick Flow 2 = 115lbs to 300lbs. RETAIL: $399

Ferrea = 90lbs to 190lbs RETAIL: $379.95


We are proud to offer all these valve springs so it gives you multi options based on the motor your looking to build and long term goals. We stock most of these springs and ready to ship today if need be.

Any questions, please feel free to call, PM, or email.

Thanks

561-417-5555
 
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SteveG@Lethal

SteveG@Lethal

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The pressure/spring is all based on the set up your doing. RPM range, boost, ect.... As stated in the first post, Most people seeing 15lbs or more, a 190lb or more open is recommended.
 
Shaun@AED

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High spring rates can mean VCT becomes uncontrollable at RPM.

Aside from poorly designed turbo kits with excessive back pressure I have yet to see any issues with the OE Boss setup with OE Boss hollow stem valves.

Lighter valve train weight = less spring pressure needed to control the valves properly.
OE Boss has several advantages IMO.
1. OE quality tested on the Boss
2. More seat pressure
3. Lighter weight valves
4. Proven full VCT control at RPM

For the average street/strip supercharged / cammed 5.0 there is no better setup IMO.
 
SteveG@Lethal

SteveG@Lethal

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Any Blower will show just as much as any turbo system. Been happening well before the coyotes were even thought of. It is generally seen at higher rpm.

If you enjoy the boss spring... then I'm glad it works for you... But us and other companies have been using a higher pressure springs on higher hp or track applications. The boss spring is a step up over factory as you can see the rates in my first post. It will work for minor cars like you said but anything larger, we recommend a better spring
 
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poof100

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Shaun@AED said:
High spring rates can mean VCT becomes uncontrollable at RPM.

Aside from poorly designed turbo kits with excessive back pressure I have yet to see any issues with the OE Boss setup with OE Boss hollow stem valves.

Lighter valve train weight = less spring pressure needed to control the valves properly.
OE Boss has several advantages IMO.
1. OE quality tested on the Boss
2. More seat pressure
3. Lighter weight valves
4. Proven full VCT control at RPM

For the average street/strip supercharged / cammed 5.0 there is no better setup IMO.
Click to expand...

This is simply NOT correct and Terrible information being posted for the average guy out there who is building a motor and is trying to weigh options on Valve springs for his expensive motor. The Boss Springs are NOT the ideal option, especially at higher boost levels, even above 12psi.

We can further turn this into a pissing match or edit the post and leave BBR's post alone on providing spring pressure options. The Fastest Coyotes out there are definitely not running a Boss spring, that's a FACT.
 
Shaun@AED

Shaun@AED

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Instead of arguing about your ignorant posts aimed at selling parts I will simply post this:

I do not sell parts.
I do however have an extensive background in camshaft design and theory, including valve train stability. I've been designing camshafts for over a dozen years and if LS1Tech still is searchable that far back, you can do your own research on my knowledge of cams / valve trains before starting a heated debate here you are sure to lose.

Search for screen name: 93PONY on LS1Tech
 
97tc

97tc

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Me I certainly would go with the Boss Spring on a N/A Engine if I increased the factory rpm limiter in excess of 7,000 RPM, its cheap insurance and i like margains. If you don't have the need for wild spring pressures then it makes no sense because of the stress on the valve train and excess lobe wear over a long period of time and reduced fuel economy from the increased drag. There is a formula for computing the proper spring pressure for boosted engines. It involves the surface area of the valve, the back pressure, and the normal closed seat pressure. " If an engine has 2.25" dia. intake valves, there is 4 sq. inches of backside valve area. Now add 12 (psi) of boost pressure, and you have reduced your effective seat pressure by 48 lbs. (12 lbs/sq.in. X 4 sq. in.). If you started out with 120 lbs. of seat pressure (static), you now have 72 lbs. of operational seat pressure. There is no way that 72 lbs. of pressure is going to control a 2.25" valve!
 
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Bud

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Interesting info. I've been curious if spring pressure becomes a concern with cam, follower, and chain wear. Would the boss hollow valve stems be a bad idea on a severe duty turbo motor with excess heat and pressure, how would they stand up?
 
stangn

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Every spring has a cycling lifespan and will lose pressure over time or misuse. I'm not an expert in any of the design, just been racing for a while. On my push rod motors with big solid roller cams I would change springs yearly or if float began to occur. Just my useless 2 cents.
 

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