I am looking to do a 3L swap in the future and i have a few questions about it. I have been reading on contour.org but i cant find any places that say what you need other than the engine to do the swap. I tried placing my own post to ask but after i signed up on contour.org i cant even log in. It just gives me a message that says the administrater has limmited my abilities. So if anyone can tell me what all needs to be purchased to do the swap or where i can find out please let me know. thanks for the help.
3L swap
- Thread starter quadracer_87
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yes after you sign up your account needs to be approved by the admin. the amount of time does very. you should be able to post in the new members classroom after you confirm your account.
Thanks, good luck.
op:I could not have said it better myself! ive been reading through all of the forms and have found nothing
I could not have said it better myself! ive been reading through all of the forms and have found nothing
Have you tried the archives? I haven't been there in a while, but the information is there. First though you need to have a plan on what you want out of the 3.0L and a budget. Next you need to plan HOURS of time for research. I actually spent probably 3+ months of reading, documenting, part number acquiring, etc when I put mine together. It might have changed since I did mine ('04), but there wasn't a walk through to hold someone's hand on what to do. You have to figure that out by doing the above. If you want something that you plan on doing yourself and expect something/someone to hold your hand through it, you probably aren't going to get it done. And most CSVT guys don't have the funds to just pay someone to do all that for them. With that said, if you have SPECIFIC questions, I will be more than willing to help you with the knowledge I have, but Brapple will be more up to date.
it's def all there, but you need to understand what you are doing first. It gets confusing because there isn't a cookie cutter solution that everyone does, there are different options. It also doesnt help that people confuse the different terminology, too.
What you need to realize is there is a parts list on there, and there is threads showing what parts of the block you need to cut off, and threads showing the bushing you need to cut/remove from the crank, and threads showing different porting options (if you keep the SVT intake setup), threads showing the knock sensor options, but they arent all in the same thread.
It's much simpler than you think. it is basically following the service manual and only doing a couple things, which i listed above.
What you need to realize is there is a parts list on there, and there is threads showing what parts of the block you need to cut off, and threads showing the bushing you need to cut/remove from the crank, and threads showing different porting options (if you keep the SVT intake setup), threads showing the knock sensor options, but they arent all in the same thread.
It's much simpler than you think. it is basically following the service manual and only doing a couple things, which i listed above.
You are right there are some amazing write ups on these forms and contour.org that I have used.
I am confident in my ability to switch them out. For about the past 2 weeks I have been reading about it and you are right that I will need hours to swap it and plan to swap it.
What I would like to do is a straight up 3L swap. sounds the easiest?. I know of a csvt in a Cleveland pull apart, would it be worth spending a day in the cold to get the heads and make a hybrid? Would a hybrid put up more ponies on a dyno or should I look for a sho 3.0? Is a sho a can of worms?
As for my budget id say around 1500.
thx guys
I am confident in my ability to switch them out. For about the past 2 weeks I have been reading about it and you are right that I will need hours to swap it and plan to swap it.
What I would like to do is a straight up 3L swap. sounds the easiest?. I know of a csvt in a Cleveland pull apart, would it be worth spending a day in the cold to get the heads and make a hybrid? Would a hybrid put up more ponies on a dyno or should I look for a sho 3.0? Is a sho a can of worms?
As for my budget id say around 1500.
thx guys
The whole "hybrid" thing is all a matter of what you want. If you want peak HP numbers that pulls up high (like a stock CSVT) then by all means do a hybrid. If you want the most torque and a much more broad bandwidth a straight 3.0L will do it. My car is a straight 3.0L (I didn't build it) that is running a 3.0L hybrid tune (secondaries etc still tuned in) and it still pulls like a beast down low. once I get it tuned it will be a dynamo from 2-5.5K rpms. Even with that tune, according to the previous owner, it was still outrunning a 218 whp hybrid CSVT.
the hybrid is "old school" in the contour world. not many people build hybrids any more. it would be good for nitrous otherwise you are just getting the bump in compression.
since you have an Se I would go ported 3l or straight 3l.
as for install time, it can be done in one day once your good at it ....
but you need to plan it out. get the motor, decide on a build type, get the spare parts, gaskets, headers, etc and have at it.
since you have an Se I would go ported 3l or straight 3l.
as for install time, it can be done in one day once your good at it ....
but you need to plan it out. get the motor, decide on a build type, get the spare parts, gaskets, headers, etc and have at it.
yes the 3L is worth the extra money ... oh wait, if you price it out a 3L is cheaper then a used 2.5L engine from the junkyards
the extra 50 ft-lbs torque is well worth it ...
you will use your stock pcm but you will need to tune the car because you will be removing the secondaries and using the 3L injectors.
agree with all of the above, but note brapple is talking about a Duratec 3L, not an SHO engine like you refer to in your post, the SHO motor won't be anything like the duratec 3L will be in regards to ease of installation.
probably not, why would you want to?
it would be way more work for no benefit. the 3L duratec makes the same power, has an aluminum block, and has the same bell housing bolt pattern as the stock transmission, while the yamaha SHO engine is iron block, and doesnt match the stock mtx-75.
they do make the same power? i didnt know that
I thought it would be a bump in power and as far as a could tell in a junk yard the motor mounts are almost identical i could get a SHO engine with 112k on the clock with 5 speed Manuel trans for under 100 if i pull it myself that why i was wondering..
Am i the only one who thinks that intake is neat!?
I thought it would be a bump in power and as far as a could tell in a junk yard the motor mounts are almost identical i could get a SHO engine with 112k on the clock with 5 speed Manuel trans for under 100 if i pull it myself that why i was wondering..
Am i the only one who thinks that intake is neat!?
I hear the SHO motors are expensive for parts and need more attention in terms of maintenance than say the 2.5 or the 3L. Since we are on the subject of 3L besides being expensive why has no one tried to use the Jaguar 3L(would it even fit) or even using the 3L out of the Mazda 6 (220HP)? Just something I always wondered about.
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please head over to ceg and start reading. iirc the sho v6 is much larger then the duratec. it just plain doesn't fit and not worth the time to make it work.
if you want to see what it may take to install one search the web for a guy from canada. he installed a sho motor into his tempo. he had to made custom frame rails to fit the engine. I can't see the contour being any different.
edit: nevermind here is the link mainpage
if you want to see what it may take to install one search the web for a guy from canada. he installed a sho motor into his tempo. he had to made custom frame rails to fit the engine. I can't see the contour being any different.
edit: nevermind here is the link mainpage
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