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SN95 Cobras
347 oil weight
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<blockquote data-quote="carkrazy" data-source="post: 8845688" data-attributes="member: 74207"><p>every engine builder has there own methods and theories. I have built two engines with renowned engine builder Ronnie Crawford. one was a mod motor the other a push rod motor and he gave me the same break in procedures for both. basically buy regular non synthetic 10w30 and run it for 500-600 miles. After that drain it and add your preffered synthetic oil. I used Amsoil 10w40 on my push rod 418 stroker that makes 500hp to the crank. The theory behind the non synthetic is it will allow the rings to seat/break in faster than if you used synthetic. I'm a little more anal and did this procedure twice before switching to synthetic. All I can tell you is that it work very well for me. hope this helps you out.</p><p></p><p>p.s. by the way the 418 is my avatar <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="carkrazy, post: 8845688, member: 74207"] every engine builder has there own methods and theories. I have built two engines with renowned engine builder Ronnie Crawford. one was a mod motor the other a push rod motor and he gave me the same break in procedures for both. basically buy regular non synthetic 10w30 and run it for 500-600 miles. After that drain it and add your preffered synthetic oil. I used Amsoil 10w40 on my push rod 418 stroker that makes 500hp to the crank. The theory behind the non synthetic is it will allow the rings to seat/break in faster than if you used synthetic. I'm a little more anal and did this procedure twice before switching to synthetic. All I can tell you is that it work very well for me. hope this helps you out. p.s. by the way the 418 is my avatar :) [/QUOTE]
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