3.2 Mammoth "All the Boost" E85 Build

lucheski

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I am currently in the middle of a new build based around Kenne Bell 3.2LC Mammoth. There will be no baby boost. Targeting 950 whp blower only.

Summary of New Setup will be
4.6L/Teksid/10.5:1 (same)
Kenne Bell 3.2LC Mammoth Blower (Previously 2.8 mammoth)
Comp Custom Cams (Same from 2.8 build)
Fox Lake Stage 3 Ported Heads (previously heads were stock)
ID1300s w/return style (Previously ID1000s)

Some of you may remember my old thread detailing my My Kennebell 2.8 Mammoth setup acouple years ago.
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/new-build-4-6l-teksid-10-5-1-cams-2-8-mammoth-e85.1091324/

Previous 2.8 mammoth setup made about 800whp on low boost (pullied for 18psi) but I was never able to turn up the 2.8 due to following issues.

Issue #1 - Spark Blowout - I had spark blowout after 6000rpm this was fixed switch from BR7EF to TR6 Plugs. E85 is apparently harder to light and likes the slightly hotter TR6 plug. Switching to TR6 gapped at 18 thou pulls all the way to 6800 redline. The BR7EF plugs would blowout after 6000rpm even at 12 thou gap, my motor just hated those plugs.

Issue #2 - Brian Tooley Valve Springs - I asked MPR to Build my heads with Brian Tooley Valve springs. There must have been a bad batch because I along with a number of other MPR customers had spring failures. It broke 3 valve springs over 2 years. The lastest valve spring failure last month piston hit the valve bending it. (I was able to cut off the engine immediately preventing future damage). MPR said they no longer use Brian Tooley Valve Springs in their builds

Issue #3 - Oil Consumption - I had Intune Motorsports to install dual JLT V3 Oil Separators however the Oil Separators did not work and led to massive Oil consumption and detonation resulting in glazed cylinder the walls and poor ring seal. Leading me to do this bottom end rebuild. I called JLT and they said their separators will not work at higher boost or power levels

Issue #4 - Insufficient Intercooler Capacity - With the 2.8 the car made great power and was fun to drive however the intercooler capacity was not enough even with the 2 gal underhood tank. After One 2nd gear pull with the 2 gal tank filled with ice it would be steaming water hot to the touch. I added 7 Gal tank and J2 Flow mod resulting in a night and day difference in power.

Thankfully I was able to sort out all these issues and new setup is now ready for all the boost.




Other Mods
Engine Upgrades

Kenne Bell 168MM Singleblade ThrottleBody
10.5:1 Diamond Racing Flat Top Pistons (10.62:1)
Competition Cams Custom Blower Camshafts 230*/232* .495 lift
Teksid Block
Forged Cobra Crank
Manley Forged Cobra Rods
EGR Delete
Ford Racing 2005+ Revised 9 Thread Cylinder Heads
Roush HD 3V Supercharger Belt Tensioner (Eliminated all Belt Slip)
Metco Lower cage Pulley Assembly (2LB Lower)
Metco 100MM Snub Idler Metco Idler Pulleys
SCT BA2600 in 4.5 Inch Tube
E85 Tune


Exhaust Upgrades

Kooks 1-3/4 inch Long Tube Headers
Kooks 3 inch Catless X-pipe
MAC 3 inch Catback Fuel System


Drivetrain Upgrades
Pro Motion Built Tremec T56 Transmission Pro Motion 26 spline Custom Input Shaft
Fully Built Independent Rear Suspension
DSS Level 5 Axles
Ford Racing Differential Cover
FTBR Delrin Bushing
FTBR HD Toe Link Bars
Eaton Tru-Trac Differential
New Ford Performance 3.55 gears
Centerforce DFX Clutch 26 spline
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Promotion Performance Custom 26 Spline input Shaft
D and D Throwout bearing retainer sleeve
Ford Racing clutch fork
Steeda firewall adjuster and quadrant
UPR K-Member/ coil-over kit
UPR Bump steer
Rear H and R springs
Kenny Brown rear diff torque brace
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber plates


Fuel System Upgrades
Injector Dynamics ID1300 Fuel Injectors
Fore Fuel Rails (New 2019 Design)
Lethal Performance 1200+HP Return Style Fuel System
Aeromotive 4 Port Pro Series EFI Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fragola PTFE Pre-Assembled Fuel Hose (10an Feed, 8an Return)
DivisionX Dual Pump Return Style Fuel Hat
Dual Walboro 465lph Fuel Pumps (high pressure version 465Lph F90000274)

Cooling Upgrades
Custom Carbon Fiber Vented Hood
J2 Fab Intercooler Flow Mod
TigVision 7 Gal Intercooler Trunk Tank
Rule 2000 Intercooler pump w/1 inch intercooler lines
Fluidyne Radiator
AFCO dual pass heat exchanger
Reische Performance 170 Thermostat
Thunder Autosports Custom Cylinder Head Coolant Crossover
EMP Stewart High Performance Water Pump
Canton Radiator Overflow Tank
Canton Power Steering reservoir


Electrical Upgrades
J2Fabrication 200 amp alternator
2/0 AWG Power and Ground Wire
Metco Alternator 3.2 Alternator Pulley
Battery Trunk Relocation Kit
4 gauge alt wire upgrade
 
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lucheski

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For those of your with 2.8 mammoth you can upgrade to a 3.2 mammoth buying just the center section and reusing the intake and pulley drive from the 2.8.. The 3.2 mammoth is dimensionally the same as 2.8. The difference is the 3.2 mammoth uses the new rotor profile from the 4.7 shortened to fit in the 2.8 case resulting in 3.2L displacement.
20190523_182053.jpg
 
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GodStang

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2.8L Mammoth correct? Not normal 2.8L as it does not have the adapter plate.

For those of your with 2.8 you can upgrade to a 3.2 mammoth buying just the center section and reusing the intake and pulley drive from the 2.8.. The 3.2 mammoth is dimensionally the same as 2.8. The difference is the 3.2 mammoth uses the new rotor profile from the 4.7 shortened to fit in the 2.8 case resulting in 3.2L displacement.View attachment 1578859
 

D-MANN

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I love this build. I was actually doing some research reading on the 2.8 & 3.2 mammoth’s last night and today. I have another cobra i want to do a mammoth build on. Do you still have to counter bore the base plate to clear aftermarket fuel rails or did KB sort that out?


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DSG2003Mach1

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sucks to hear about the BTR springs, I used them in my motor because it had comp cams springs in it from back when they had some bad batches
 

lucheski

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I love this build. I was actually doing some research reading on the 2.8 & 3.2 mammoth’s last night and today. I have another cobra i want to do a mammoth build on. Do you still have to counter bore the base plate to clear aftermarket fuel rails or did KB sort that out?


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I bought my car with the 2.8 Mammoth already installed. It also had the original Fore (not fore innovations) Square Tube fuel rails...Those rail fit but they covered the blower mounting studs in the base plate. It appears the base plate was already counter bored because the heads of the studs sit flush inside the blower plate. With the original Fore fuel rail it was impossible to reach the bolt under the mammoth intake to pull it back and reach the blower mounting bolts. In order to remove the blower you had to drop the engine to reach the mounting bolt under the mammoth intake from the back side. Which was CRAZY

I ended up buying and installing the new 2019 Fore Innovations SN95 fuel rail because it has notches cut in it which allow me to remove the blower in 20 minutes. The only thing I don't like about the new Fore Innovations fuel rail is that it does not have a "floor" for the KB FRPS disc. The old Fore Rail had a pin-sized hole restrictor built into the rail to prevent FRPS from blowing. The new rail just a huge hole with no "floor" for the KB FRPS disc to sit on so the FRPS gets a ton of volume (i believe this caused my FRPS to blow).
 
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GodStang

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I bought my car with the 2.8 Mammoth already installed. It also had the original Fore (not fore innovations) Square Tube fuel rails...Those rail fit but they covered the blower mounting studs in the base plate. It appears the base plate was already counter bored because the heads of the studs sit flush inside the blower plate. With the original Fore fuel rail it was impossible to reach the bolt under the mammoth intake to pull it back and reach the blower mounting bolts. In order to remove the blower you had to drop the engine to reach the mounting bolt under the mammoth intake from the back side. Which was CRAZY

I ended up buying and installing the new 2019 Fore Innovations SN95 fuel rail because it has notches cut in it which allow me to remove the blower in 20 minutes. The only thing I don't like about the new Fore Innovations fuel rail is that it does not have a "floor" for the KB FRPS disc. The old Fore Rail had a pin-sized hole restrictor built into the rail to prevent FRPS from blowing. The new rail just a huge hole with no "floor" for the KB FRPS disc to sit on so the FRPS gets a ton of volume (i believe this caused my FRPS to blow).


That's strange I never had to drop the engine to reach any of the bolts. Do you know when they redesigned the fuel rails?

What upper pulley will you be running? I see a 2# lower.
 
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lucheski

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This is the Roush 3V Tensioner. After swapping the pulley and it was a perfect fit and eliminated all belt slip. The spring in the Roush is much heavier than stock. This may be good option for those who don't want to buy a Billet tensioner. I paid like 120 for this on summitracing

roush2.jpg

roush3.jpg

roush1.jpg
 
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lucheski

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That's strange I never had to drop the engine to reach any of the bolts. Do you know when they redesigned the fuel rails?

What upper pulley will you be running? I see a 2# lower.
Yeah the fuel setup was strange but it's been fixed. I paid a shop which I wont mention to install the Lethal1200 Return setup a few years ago and although the car ran there was defninitely some Mickey Mouse stuff they did (like blocking access to the driver-side fuel rail bolt) I had to fix to make the car easier to deal with.

3.1 BF upper and 4lb lower
2019-06-10_16h12_58.png
 

GodStang

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Yeah the fuel setup was strange but it's been fixed. I paid a shop which I wont mention to install the Lethal1200 Return setup a few years ago and although the car ran there was defninitely some Mickey Mouse stuff they did (like blocking access to the driver-side fuel rail bolt) I had to fix to make the car easier to deal with.

3.1 BF upper and 4lb lower
View attachment 1578904


Very nice! Just over 2000 CFM @ 6500 and 2100 @ 6700?
 

GodStang

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That chart I made is for choosing pulley combinations...it shows blower RPM for given Engine RPM, I don't have CFM/RPM I wish KB provided more technical information like that

It's a simple formula. Every rotation of the blower is 3.2L (0.113007 cf per revolution), hence the name. If your spinning 18032 Blower rpm @ 6500 motor rpms then you should be .113007 cf * 18032 b-rpm which gives you just over 2000cfm. If your intake system or outlet system can't support that then you have restrictions. For example your intercooler under the blower flows roughly 800cfm...
 

lucheski

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It's a simple formula. Every rotation of the blower is 3.2L (0.113007 cf per revolution), hence the name. If your spinning 18032 Blower rpm @ 6500 motor rpms then you should be .113007 cf * 18032 b-rpm which gives you just over 2000cfm. If your intake system or outlet system can't support that then you have restrictions. For example your intercooler under the blower flows roughly 800cfm...
Cool! How did you determine the flow of the intercooler?
 

lucheski

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Last week I pulled the heads and sent them to Fox Lake. In addition to his stage3 CNC port. Heads will be getting:
Ferrea Stainless Steel Valves - Ron@FoxLake recommends SS valves for power levels past 750whp
Hardened Exhaust Valve seats
PAC Racing springs and Steel Retainers
FordGT Rockers (Already have from last build)

I was set on doing oversized valves but Ron@FoxLake said doing 1mm Oversized valves wouldn't help because the stock valve size is already optimized to the port. He said he would install if I wanted to but promised me oversized valves wouldn't give any additional low-lift flow I was hoping for.

20190530_210717.jpg
20190605_175051.jpg
20190605_195944.jpg
 

03' White Snake

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Damn, really great build. Very similar to my setup. I'm on a baby 2.8h tho, non mammoth. Can't wait to see what she puts down.

I did -5.2 cc 0.020 over diamond pistons with hardcoat anodizing and moly skirts, new Kellogg crank, stock rods, .200 wrist pins, full ARP 2000 everywhere, my block was decked 0.002", 0.045" cometic head gaskets, custom bullet cams. Heads were upgraded at Fox Lake a few years back with 12 thread inserts, SS exhaust valves and new guides. I calculate my CR to 10.3.

I cleaned my intercooler under the blower, new pump, deleted the EGR, PCV system and added breathers.... even after driving an hr, my coolant is barely Luke warm for the blower. Makes me think something is wrong but I cant find anything wrong. Car makes 22 psi, coolant is flowing in the tank.

My car made 785hp 702tq on 22 psi on E85.
 
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