$9000 swap!?
Maybe if you bought every part brand spankin' new. You can get used aviator motors for $1800 to get the heads/cams.
Maybe if you bought every part brand spankin' new. You can get used aviator motors for $1800 to get the heads/cams.
2v vs 4v forced induction
- Thread starter smkn99
- Start date
Seeing as you already have a built bottom end with ported heads I'd just use what you have and boost it. I had a DSS shortblock, with some fully ported 2v heads (ferrea valves etc.) and some really old school SHM 2730 cams. I had a Kenne Bell 2.2 kit and saw just over 14psi and made 570rwhp/510rwtq at 6200rpms on 93 pump gas. This was on a 98 degree day in Texas as well. I am confident in cooler weather it would have made close to 600 which is awesome #'s for that amount of boost out of a KB 2.2
My new setup I'm looking to be around the 4 digit mark with a 2v through an auto with an unlocked converter. They are very capable just dependent upon what you want to do and how you want to spend your money. I'd say with what you have already I'd just throw a KB 2.8 on it, or a tork tech with with a whipple 2.9 or a turbo.
My new setup I'm looking to be around the 4 digit mark with a 2v through an auto with an unlocked converter. They are very capable just dependent upon what you want to do and how you want to spend your money. I'd say with what you have already I'd just throw a KB 2.8 on it, or a tork tech with with a whipple 2.9 or a turbo.
If you buy a terminator swap. which includes motor, tranny, fuel tank, and all wiring, etc you will not find a full pullout for less than 7,500. Mine only had 11,000 miles so it was a higher price.
If you were starting from scratch I would probably say to go with a 4v, but seeing as you already have a good bit of money tied up in your motor setup I'd just put the money into a good power adder setup and enjoy it. Ultimately you need to decide what your goals are, know that reselling your patriot heads you will first have a hard time selling them most and likely only get $800-$1000. If you go turbo you could always switch to a 4v setup later easily too and just have the correct flanges put on your turbo manifolds.
I have a built 4V with ported stock heads, stock cams, stock intake/TB, P1SC on 11.8 pounds of boost 91 octane make 526 RWHP/501 RWTQ on DynoDynamics dyno(not dynojet)
Just for comparison
Well, ok yea. This thread is about a 4v swap, not building an 03 cobra from parts.
I've made well over 600rwhp with a 2v head. My old setup which was port, polished and valve jobs on PI heads the motor made 547rwhp not even trying. Most people hear my car and automatically assume its a 4v...lol I tell them Its just a lil 2v that is no longer stock.
There are 2 sides to that logic. From what I've learned is that 4v do flow more air BUT they also create more turbulance inside the chanber so a well flown 2v is might not flow as much but will make up in the less turbulance part. Everyone forgets that the big boys running 200+mph are 2v motors..lol IJS
You're 100% right sir! People see s cheap motor and assume that its the same as a built race motor. I have a long block for sale that all together costs well $6,000.00 yet I had people compair it to some chaep motor that costs $2000.00. Those same uninformed folks are the ones that buy the 2k motor and wonder why it blows when they try to push more than 500hp at the crank...lol
To the OP, the heads are very important but just as important are the internals of your block. They must be able to handle the power load. What are your plans for the bottom end? If you need any help just let me know. I've built two motors for 2v applications that can handle well over 1200hp so I know a little something about them :rockon:.
After reading this thread I'm very happy I stuck with the 2V, I'll post up numbers after it's dynoed and tuned in the spring, pullied for 15PSI, draw back is the heads?cams are stock with a clean up, new springs, and lash adjusters. thats the next step sometime down the road.
You will be close to 500 if not right on it.
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