I emailed On3 a couple of weeks ago and they said they are shooting for a January 2019 release for their 18+ kits.
2018 Twin turbo build
- Thread starter gimmie11s
- Start date
I emailed On3 a couple of weeks ago and they said they are shooting for a January 2019 release for their 18+ kits.
Regarding the made in China stuff...10-15 yrs ago it was horrible, and it pretty much started with ON3; cant even recall some of the others but I do remember CX in there. Poor materials, bad fitment/welds you name it. Their 304 SS would rust lol.
It's hard to forget a bad rap right out of the gate but it seems a lot of the recent builds I've seen dont have those recurring problems.
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It's hard to forget a bad rap right out of the gate but it seems a lot of the recent builds I've seen dont have those recurring problems.
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I don’t know about that, but it’ll run just fine.
Goal is a high 9 at 145 or better.
Should be easily achievable.
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Yeah it was really awful. Still isn’t great but it’s not bad enough to make me pay a $6k+ premium for a brand name kit that will perform exactly the same.
Biggest issue now days with the Chinese stuff is usually fitment. If you are half way competent with a welder and have some patience, you’ll be fine.
Can totally understand why others stay away though and I’m good with that.
What irritates me is all the “you get what you pay for” tomfoolery considering this kit will “get me” 9 second passes and 1000whp+ if I turn it up.
Do the guys paying $10k get more power? No, they don’t but they do get ease of install and amazing customer support. That certainly costs money and I get it, just shouldn’t cost $5k or better per kit IMO.
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I'm with ya. I bought a set of BG turbo headers for my fox in 2006 and built the rest myself.
459/503 which was right inline with a hellion kit on a heads/intake car.
Cost me like 1800 with the turbo lol. Same deal. MP T-70; think it was some Brazilian company.
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Alright... only got about 3 hours to tinker today.
I used every bit of that time removing the passenger side manifold, hanging the new turbo manifold and removing the factory trans cooler and lines. All of it a HUGE PAIN IN THE ASS! Actually had to remove 4 or 5 of the studs just to get the damn thing to come off even with the motor lifted about 4" up off the motor mount.
Need to run to the hardware store tomorrow and buy some bolts to get the pass side header fully bolted up and be done with that. Cant reuse some of the factory studs--too tight in there.
Going to make custom braided cooler lines and reroute/attach them to these cooler fittings/adapters. Should be pretty nice when done and free up a bunch of room on the pass side for intercooler piping.
pics
Initial mock up is telling me similar fab going to be required to keep the pass side wastegate from hitting the trans pan.
Down pipe also does not appear to line up exactly perfect with the turbo outlet v band. Might have to do some work on that one too.
I used every bit of that time removing the passenger side manifold, hanging the new turbo manifold and removing the factory trans cooler and lines. All of it a HUGE PAIN IN THE ASS! Actually had to remove 4 or 5 of the studs just to get the damn thing to come off even with the motor lifted about 4" up off the motor mount.
Need to run to the hardware store tomorrow and buy some bolts to get the pass side header fully bolted up and be done with that. Cant reuse some of the factory studs--too tight in there.
Going to make custom braided cooler lines and reroute/attach them to these cooler fittings/adapters. Should be pretty nice when done and free up a bunch of room on the pass side for intercooler piping.
pics
Initial mock up is telling me similar fab going to be required to keep the pass side wastegate from hitting the trans pan.
Down pipe also does not appear to line up exactly perfect with the turbo outlet v band. Might have to do some work on that one too.
Why did you take the turbo apart? Gonna coat them?
Running gaskets on the header or just RTV?
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Running gaskets on the header or just RTV?
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Makes it a little easier for mock up while I make fitment adjustments.
I’m gonna run the factory MLS manifold gaskets. They’re great quality.
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It is amazing how silly fast these Gen 3 coyotes can be. Loving this project even though I’m a stick shift guy.
Do you need to upgrade the half shafts at this power level and looking for 9’s? What about the DS?
I’m guessing the converter in the A10 can handle this at the track? I remember the power adder A6 guys upgrading to the Circle D converters but haven’t heard anything about that with the A10.
Keep the updates coming!
Preach it! This is my first auto “fun” car. Always been a manual guy. This a10 is unbelievable but still just not as fun and I find myself wanting to row gears.
Sad fact is you just cannot shift faster than an auto at the track and I really wanted this project to perform at the track consistently.
Leaving soft should allow the half shafts to live for a while. If it ever gets a converter (unlikely) or transbrake (which can be added into the tune) then half shafts will pretty much be required.
There are already 8 second 2018 mustangs out there on the stock trans and stock converter. Shit is crazy.
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Looking forward to end result.
Working on my Foxes and then GT500 makes me realize how much sh*t is packaged into these new cars.
I'm thinking you'll be very happy with the result and have reasonable goals.
My only question will be the converter as the TVS cars do fine with stock converters, but I think if you plan to sacrifice some ET on the launch/60', you'll be able to pour on the boost and backhalf really well.
Which will make for a great street/strip/roll combo.
I hope those 'China billet' turbos work, I agree it's a no brainer to start with them at that price.
Good luck man.
-J
Working on my Foxes and then GT500 makes me realize how much sh*t is packaged into these new cars.
I'm thinking you'll be very happy with the result and have reasonable goals.
My only question will be the converter as the TVS cars do fine with stock converters, but I think if you plan to sacrifice some ET on the launch/60', you'll be able to pour on the boost and backhalf really well.
Which will make for a great street/strip/roll combo.
I hope those 'China billet' turbos work, I agree it's a no brainer to start with them at that price.
Good luck man.
-J
Exactly right. All the extra stuff makes for a nice riding, quiet car. But damn... sure does add weight and complexity to guys like us that can’t leave well enough alone.
Converter wouldn’t have been required if I went with a reasonably sized turbo, but I’m an idiot and went with 67’s. Not wise and I’m kicking myself now. I’m expecting them to be laggy.
Transbrake would be all I need but not sure if I want to go that route.
I just might move to Borg Warner 57mm’s sooner rather than later.
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I'd run them and try it first obviously, and tuning the VTEC 
might help some with lag, as could the steep A10 gearing.
Either way, once those 76s are on boost I doubt you'll be disappointed.
-J
might help some with lag, as could the steep A10 gearing. Either way, once those 76s are on boost I doubt you'll be disappointed.
-J
I’m hoping playing with the cam timing some will bring them in sooner.
If I can get full boost by 4000 rpm I’d be stoked. Probably wishful thinking tho.
Sai Li fuel system came in. And I’m keeping with the theme, it appears all of the included AN fittings are, well, hecho en China.
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If I can get full boost by 4000 rpm I’d be stoked. Probably wishful thinking tho.
Sai Li fuel system came in. And I’m keeping with the theme, it appears all of the included AN fittings are, well, hecho en China.
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Finally done with cutting, welding, fabbing of exhaust and wastegates.
Had to re position both sides driver and pass. Ugh! All good now. Looks bad ass and gave me renewed motivation after today’s progress.
Tomorrow is cold side mock up and then start fabbing oil feed and return lines.
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Had to re position both sides driver and pass. Ugh! All good now. Looks bad ass and gave me renewed motivation after today’s progress.
Tomorrow is cold side mock up and then start fabbing oil feed and return lines.
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Progress is motivating. Keep it going.
No need for an x-pipe in the down pipes under the car but I see 2 areas for electric cutouts.
Does your car have the dual mode exhaust?
Would be cool to use it and activate the dumps.
Any reduction after turbo is awesome for power and efficiency.
Will need Go Pro motivation for us winter dwellers
Good luck buddy.
-J
No need for an x-pipe in the down pipes under the car but I see 2 areas for electric cutouts.
Does your car have the dual mode exhaust?
Would be cool to use it and activate the dumps.
Any reduction after turbo is awesome for power and efficiency.
Will need Go Pro motivation for us winter dwellers
Good luck buddy.
-J
Progress is motivating. Keep it going.
No need for an x-pipe in the down pipes under the car but I see 2 areas for electric cutouts.
Does your car have the dual mode exhaust?
Would be cool to use it and activate the dumps.
Any reduction after turbo is awesome for power and efficiency.
Will need Go Pro motivation for us winter dwellers
Good luck buddy.
-J
I struggled with the idea of the X after the turbos and agree not needed. I just did it to equalize the sound coming out of each muffler. I grabbed a universal one off Summit for like $26.
Hopefully it doesn't hurt performance? If the consensus is it will hurt, i'll dump it and just run twin straight 3".
Car does not have active exhaust.
Will be plenty of GoPro action soon! With any luck i'll have it remote tuned within 2 weeks and then to the local dyno for power reading.
I plan to run this roll racing event on Jan 5... will def have video of that.
Roll Racing America - Auto Club Speedway
I took my Shelby to one of these events last year and it was awesome.
Thanks for the kind words Doc!
I don't think the X-pipe will hurt you much, but I do think you'll pick up with dumps.
I'd put it low on the list, but I'd like to see you try it once things are sorted and you have a good baseline.
I'll be doing the same with my car, comparing full exhaust through factory mufflers and dumps.
Keep kicking @ss man.
-J
I'd put it low on the list, but I'd like to see you try it once things are sorted and you have a good baseline.
I'll be doing the same with my car, comparing full exhaust through factory mufflers and dumps.
Keep kicking @ss man.
-J
Hard to say what yours would sound like but I ran straight pipes out to regular tailpipes, no mufflers on my single turbo fox. Sounded so good at idle. Better than open dp at WOT in the car; never had someone listen when I went by. Figured that was second best behind running open dp.
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