2018 intake manifold
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- 2018 intake manifold s197 swap
It was an s550 with the IMRC's locked out.
Just curious what's been your experience as far as lower end difference between the IMRC's locked versus functional on S550? There is so much BS with these everywhere wondering if there is actual data between the two
That was not my vehicle, someone elses but tune at power by the hour, doesn't seem to lose much if tuned properly. I have an S197 with a procharger, hoping to gain alot more than 30hp
ok so here we go pictures can be found here https://photos.app.goo.gl/0tKNfAMvTHLmJZH62
I will try to make a formal how do in word with the pictures integrated in or something but basically this is how it went
I prepped the 2018 intake by removing all the crap on the back of it for IMRC
If you don't already know 11-14's do not have IMRC so this stuff MUST be removed for our cars
You will need c clip pliers to remove a couple of c clips in the back as well as a T25 torx bit to remove the 8 screws
Using (1) 11" ziptie I locked the passenger side IMRC open
Using (1) 8" ziptie I locked the drivers side IMRC open
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the back of the intake
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the front of the intake
I have a custom PCV setup so I simply reused the PCV cap from the procharger setup and used the supplied worm clamp
Next you will need to remove your stock intake & fuel rails
If you haven't done so already remove your strut tower brace(if so equipped) and your engine cover
To do this unclip the fuel pump module in your trunk near your spare tire
Go into the vehicle and attempt to start it, mine typically doesn't start, yours might start and then die, then try starting again, this will relieve the majority of fuel pressure in the rails
Undo the intake at the TB and move to the side
Unplug the EVAP connector, Throttle body connector and the fuel rail(make sure to put a rag under the fuel rail connection to catch excess fuel)
Remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding down the vacuum line to the brake canister and unplug this line near the Throttle body, you will need some needle nose pliers for this more than likely I used some 90* needle nose and they work flawlessly.
Remove the passenger & driver side heater hose standoffs and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the Injector rail insulators and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the (4) 8?mm bolts holding the injector rails down
Remove the injector rails w/injectors and put to the side, be careful as there will still be quite a bit of fuel in the rail that can come out of the feed portion if you hold it wrong during removal
Remove the (6) 8?mm bolts holding the intake down, these bolts are permanently connected to the intake via sleeves so don't worry about them dropping anywhere.
Remove the EVAP module by removing the (2) 10?mm bolts and the factory hose and set to the side
Start removing the intake manifold at this point, you will only be able to move it a few inches up and forward, you will need good lighting and an extra set of hands as there are (4) connections at the back that will need to be removed using a panel clip removal tool
Once removed the intake should come out fairly easily
Remove the Throttle Body from the intake by removing the (4) 8?mm bolts, you will reuse these bolts so keep them with the Throttle Body
Put the intake to the side just in case something goes wrong with your installation
Put the Throttle Body onto the 2018 intake manifold, WARNING! I had to flip mine 180* as the wiring would not reach, though I've seen others where it has reached so test fit the wiring in particular first if you plan to leave it in the stock position.
Next you will need to test fit the intake
Using an extra set of hands lower the intake into place
WARNING!!! check the clearance on the drivers side farthest front bolt, there is a coolant housing bolt that interfered with my installation and I had to dremel down my brand new intake several MM to get it to fit, you can see the issue and the clearancing in the pictures.
I only found I had to clearance it once I started tightening down the six bolts so be very careful at that drivers front bolt
Once clearanced and you've properly torqued down the intake using the specs in the pictures you can start buttoning things up
Connect the Throttle Body connector
Connect/Tighten the intake hose to the Throttle Body
Connect the Vacuum hose to the larger port on the Throttle Body(next to the PCV port)
Connect the EVAP connector to the module, position your module how you'd like and using the 3/8" hose and (2) smaller worm clamps connect the EVAP to the smaller port on the intake next to the Vacuum hose you connected in the previous step, reconnect the stock line to the EVAP module and the C Clip to hold it in place.
Reinstall the injector rails and injectors, make sure to lube the orings with a fingertip of fresh oil
Tighten down their 4 bolts
Reinstall the heater hose standoffs and vacuum hose hardline using the 4 nuts you removed earlier.
Reconnect the fuel pump module in the trunk
Next comes the tuning part
If you have a base tune to throw in do it now, obviously I use HP Tuners and do my own tuning
However once I connected the fuel pump module I ran a test, I primed the system 2x and started the car, it started, ran & idled at lambda 1.0 without issue, I have a good strong feeling the car would probably run just fine without any further modifications IMHO.
From there I simply changed the intake manifold volume from the stock value of 11.1L to the 12.5L listed in every 2018 Mustang file and flashed that in.
Took the car out for a drive, felt no noticeable loss of low end tq and SOTP felt like it pulled a little better up top, 60hp SOTP feel eh, who knows. Time will tell as theres a dyno day at the place where I dynoed the car last when I made 578/465 to the wheels so it should be a very good comparison, not the same day but at least the same dyno.
I was really hoping to work something out with the guys from the tuning school but we had conflicting schedules and I had the day off today so rather than twiddling my thumbs I figured I just do the install & write up myself.
I believe that's it but if I left anything out please let me know.
I will try to make a formal how do in word with the pictures integrated in or something but basically this is how it went
I prepped the 2018 intake by removing all the crap on the back of it for IMRC
If you don't already know 11-14's do not have IMRC so this stuff MUST be removed for our cars
You will need c clip pliers to remove a couple of c clips in the back as well as a T25 torx bit to remove the 8 screws
Using (1) 11" ziptie I locked the passenger side IMRC open
Using (1) 8" ziptie I locked the drivers side IMRC open
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the back of the intake
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the front of the intake
I have a custom PCV setup so I simply reused the PCV cap from the procharger setup and used the supplied worm clamp
Next you will need to remove your stock intake & fuel rails
If you haven't done so already remove your strut tower brace(if so equipped) and your engine cover
To do this unclip the fuel pump module in your trunk near your spare tire
Go into the vehicle and attempt to start it, mine typically doesn't start, yours might start and then die, then try starting again, this will relieve the majority of fuel pressure in the rails
Undo the intake at the TB and move to the side
Unplug the EVAP connector, Throttle body connector and the fuel rail(make sure to put a rag under the fuel rail connection to catch excess fuel)
Remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding down the vacuum line to the brake canister and unplug this line near the Throttle body, you will need some needle nose pliers for this more than likely I used some 90* needle nose and they work flawlessly.
Remove the passenger & driver side heater hose standoffs and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the Injector rail insulators and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the (4) 8?mm bolts holding the injector rails down
Remove the injector rails w/injectors and put to the side, be careful as there will still be quite a bit of fuel in the rail that can come out of the feed portion if you hold it wrong during removal
Remove the (6) 8?mm bolts holding the intake down, these bolts are permanently connected to the intake via sleeves so don't worry about them dropping anywhere.
Remove the EVAP module by removing the (2) 10?mm bolts and the factory hose and set to the side
Start removing the intake manifold at this point, you will only be able to move it a few inches up and forward, you will need good lighting and an extra set of hands as there are (4) connections at the back that will need to be removed using a panel clip removal tool
Once removed the intake should come out fairly easily
Remove the Throttle Body from the intake by removing the (4) 8?mm bolts, you will reuse these bolts so keep them with the Throttle Body
Put the intake to the side just in case something goes wrong with your installation
Put the Throttle Body onto the 2018 intake manifold, WARNING! I had to flip mine 180* as the wiring would not reach, though I've seen others where it has reached so test fit the wiring in particular first if you plan to leave it in the stock position.
Next you will need to test fit the intake
Using an extra set of hands lower the intake into place
WARNING!!! check the clearance on the drivers side farthest front bolt, there is a coolant housing bolt that interfered with my installation and I had to dremel down my brand new intake several MM to get it to fit, you can see the issue and the clearancing in the pictures.
I only found I had to clearance it once I started tightening down the six bolts so be very careful at that drivers front bolt
Once clearanced and you've properly torqued down the intake using the specs in the pictures you can start buttoning things up
Connect the Throttle Body connector
Connect/Tighten the intake hose to the Throttle Body
Connect the Vacuum hose to the larger port on the Throttle Body(next to the PCV port)
Connect the EVAP connector to the module, position your module how you'd like and using the 3/8" hose and (2) smaller worm clamps connect the EVAP to the smaller port on the intake next to the Vacuum hose you connected in the previous step, reconnect the stock line to the EVAP module and the C Clip to hold it in place.
Reinstall the injector rails and injectors, make sure to lube the orings with a fingertip of fresh oil
Tighten down their 4 bolts
Reinstall the heater hose standoffs and vacuum hose hardline using the 4 nuts you removed earlier.
Reconnect the fuel pump module in the trunk
Next comes the tuning part
If you have a base tune to throw in do it now, obviously I use HP Tuners and do my own tuning
However once I connected the fuel pump module I ran a test, I primed the system 2x and started the car, it started, ran & idled at lambda 1.0 without issue, I have a good strong feeling the car would probably run just fine without any further modifications IMHO.
From there I simply changed the intake manifold volume from the stock value of 11.1L to the 12.5L listed in every 2018 Mustang file and flashed that in.
Took the car out for a drive, felt no noticeable loss of low end tq and SOTP felt like it pulled a little better up top, 60hp SOTP feel eh, who knows. Time will tell as theres a dyno day at the place where I dynoed the car last when I made 578/465 to the wheels so it should be a very good comparison, not the same day but at least the same dyno.
I was really hoping to work something out with the guys from the tuning school but we had conflicting schedules and I had the day off today so rather than twiddling my thumbs I figured I just do the install & write up myself.
I believe that's it but if I left anything out please let me know.
Any change in boost from the intake?
No noticeable difference.
Bill- what rpm were you revving the stock manifold to- the 18 manifold will show most of its gains from 6k to 7500 rpm where the stock one was starting to fall flat from 6800ish on up.
Will be interesting to see the results- good write up as well.
Will be interesting to see the results- good write up as well.
I'm currently on stock OPG so I have my shift points set to 7200 at the track.
Do we need to jump on these before they get more expensive? I just got my 14 and am starting to mod but I have to take it slowly. Just lost my 93 Fox with a supercharged Dart based stroker in the CA wildfire, along with our house and everything else. Are there any downsides to this intake?
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
3.7 silvrbullet
New Member
Somebody send a link where the 18 manifold can be purchased I can’t find it
3.7 silvrbullet
New Member
Just bought an 18 intake manifold for my 13 5.0 with the mmr lockout kit what else would I need to install this on my 13 5.0
Jim Varrati
New Member
Guys need a little guidance with an issue, I have a 2017 GT conv and had a local HP Dyno shop add BBK 1 3/4 long tube headers, 2018 Manifold w/IMRC locked out, C&L intake followed with a custom Dyno tune. After tune the car made 418 RWHP and 382 TQ. I was expecting a bit better but that's okay, the problem is I had the car returned to the shop twice because the 1-3 rpm range drives pretty bad hesitates and lunges makes city driving stop sign to stop sign terrible like someone who doesn't know how to drive a stick lol. Tuner said he has done all he could do and maybe I should enable the IMRC's, the problem with that is I left all my parts removed there and he chucked them. So my question is have any of you guys got this to work smoothly in this range with a none boosted scenario? Need some direction... The car is a performance/premium package so standard tran, 373 gears and larger tires.
Your numbers are not that far off, the 18 intakes dont add all that much peak power however you should not be having any driveability issues as this is a pretty basic setup unless your running an oddball throttle body which I did not see in your post, find a new tuner
Last edited:
Jim Varrati
New Member
Thanks, Stock throttle body.
Jim Varrati
New Member
One thing I forgot to mention is after tune I was getting Random cylinder miss-fire code, I was instructed to take it to auto zone and have them clear it and if it comes back to bring the car back and he would fix it. It did return the next day I took it to him and he changed something in the tuning and it has not returned.
Jim Varrati
New Member
No clutch just 2018 Intake, Long tube headers, C&L air filter and tune. I asked about a leak and he said he doubts it and I left it an extra day so he wasn't rushed. I think he adjusted the ignition timing a bit to get rid of the code. I think I'll just order a tune from VMP and see if it that alleviates the issue. Thoughts?
Jim Varrati
New Member
I did find the BBK gaskets for the headers in the trunk and he said that he would not use their gaskets because I would get a header leak using them. So I don't know what he used I'm guessing he reused the stock gaskets. I like the guy and I know he knows his stuff because he's always busy and has many awards with his car at the track. Maybe it was rushed or maybe my car is the one percent to cause issues. I just wanted to know if this was normal and sounding from you guys it is not, I will buy some carb cleaner and spray around the hoses to see if I can find a leak and in the meantime talk with VMP about a tune file.
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