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2013-14 Shelby GT500
2014 Shelby GT500 - Connecting rods
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<blockquote data-quote="Turbo98GT" data-source="post: 16720579" data-attributes="member: 72356"><p>If you buy a used vehicle, especially a 13/14 GT500, the word "safe" shouldn't be used. First job, get a leak down and compression test to see how healthy the engine is. No point in modifying a $25k engines with a bad or weak cylinder. </p><p></p><p>As far as being "safe", it's all relative to what you are doing. I personally believe high timing, poor fuel octane and repeated beating on the engine will destroy the rods in the 5.8. </p><p></p><p>You need to ask yourself if you have the funds to build your engine now while the block, heads and crank are usable ($12-15k) or build with with a destroyed block, damaged heads and crank ($20k++). </p><p></p><p>Do you have access to E85? </p><p></p><p>Are you willing to run a high grade fuel additive to signficantly raise octane level everytime you beat on the car? </p><p></p><p>Do you plan to race at all? 1/4, 1/2 mile or roll race? </p><p></p><p>For me, I made 875whp on stock rods. That's 24psi and 22 degrees timing on race E85. If I were to hit a 1/2 mile or plan to beat the shit out of it for a weekend, I would've ran 18 degree timing to keep engine load down. I had stock cams so my shift point was at 6300 on my gauge (actual 6500/6600 if you look at logs). Cams are great but they move the power band up and if you want to take advantage of the cams, you may get in the danger zone with rpm. Also to note, I had my car since new so I knew the history inside and out. </p><p></p><p>91 octane is a terrible high grade fuel but thankfully these cars have wide bands to help keep knock down. I had 91 in Vegas and I ran Torco/VP octanium when I beat on my car. I would use Boostane now but it didn't exist back then. </p><p></p><p>Im rambling, bottom line, so many variables and risks associated.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Turbo98GT, post: 16720579, member: 72356"] If you buy a used vehicle, especially a 13/14 GT500, the word "safe" shouldn't be used. First job, get a leak down and compression test to see how healthy the engine is. No point in modifying a $25k engines with a bad or weak cylinder. As far as being "safe", it's all relative to what you are doing. I personally believe high timing, poor fuel octane and repeated beating on the engine will destroy the rods in the 5.8. You need to ask yourself if you have the funds to build your engine now while the block, heads and crank are usable ($12-15k) or build with with a destroyed block, damaged heads and crank ($20k++). Do you have access to E85? Are you willing to run a high grade fuel additive to signficantly raise octane level everytime you beat on the car? Do you plan to race at all? 1/4, 1/2 mile or roll race? For me, I made 875whp on stock rods. That's 24psi and 22 degrees timing on race E85. If I were to hit a 1/2 mile or plan to beat the shit out of it for a weekend, I would've ran 18 degree timing to keep engine load down. I had stock cams so my shift point was at 6300 on my gauge (actual 6500/6600 if you look at logs). Cams are great but they move the power band up and if you want to take advantage of the cams, you may get in the danger zone with rpm. Also to note, I had my car since new so I knew the history inside and out. 91 octane is a terrible high grade fuel but thankfully these cars have wide bands to help keep knock down. I had 91 in Vegas and I ran Torco/VP octanium when I beat on my car. I would use Boostane now but it didn't exist back then. Im rambling, bottom line, so many variables and risks associated. [/QUOTE]
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2013-14 Shelby GT500
2014 Shelby GT500 - Connecting rods
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