As others said, for basic bolt ons a canned tune will work but you'll still need to log it. When I got my Lund tune my fuel trims were 20% off, probably because my JLT air intake was out-of-spec. But a few back-and-forth logs and they got it cleaned up.
2014 Shelby GT500 - Connecting rods
- Thread starter Fastback14
- Start date
I'm not @1 Alibi 2 but, my opinion is... A custom tune may not be "required," but I was more comfortable with that path. Every car is different and driving conditions vary greatly from place-to-place. I know a number of local Shelby owners who switched from "mail order" tunes you listed to the same custom shop that tuned my car. They're happier for having done so, with quick resolution of issues they'd chased thru repeated logging sessions and email exchanges. Ours may be a "less than common" situation, however, due to our ~5K-7K ft elevation.
If you look at my mods in my signature, I cleared 730/715 on my setup just to give you a "measuring stick". I'd be exited to see changes to accommodate for a 1/2 mile event as most here, are just garage queens and street cars.
I would run Boostane
Lots of great points in here.
I don’t want to get into the canned tune debate but I will say if you go that route you better know how to datalog.
On the shift points, there are newer cars with ‘no lift shift’ or our cars can use the WOT Box for an ignition cut. I bring that up because the ignition cut limits the mechanical over rev. The stock tach is terrible to read while racing and the stock shift light is slow, so even the fastest shifters will likely over rev if you try to hit close to 7000rpm shift points using the stock gauge.
However, there is a performance advantage I’ve personally verified. Even a stock car, shifting at 6200 or 6700 is several tenths in the 1/4. There’s a reason Ford allowed a 7000rpm redline for racing. On a modified car, I’d recommend a 6300-6500 shift point over the 6700-7000 shift on a stock car.
For the OP, I’d still definitely recommend modding and racing your Shelby as they respond VERY well to mild mods and it’s a blast to race.
Good luck
-J
I don’t want to get into the canned tune debate but I will say if you go that route you better know how to datalog.
On the shift points, there are newer cars with ‘no lift shift’ or our cars can use the WOT Box for an ignition cut. I bring that up because the ignition cut limits the mechanical over rev. The stock tach is terrible to read while racing and the stock shift light is slow, so even the fastest shifters will likely over rev if you try to hit close to 7000rpm shift points using the stock gauge.
However, there is a performance advantage I’ve personally verified. Even a stock car, shifting at 6200 or 6700 is several tenths in the 1/4. There’s a reason Ford allowed a 7000rpm redline for racing. On a modified car, I’d recommend a 6300-6500 shift point over the 6700-7000 shift on a stock car.
For the OP, I’d still definitely recommend modding and racing your Shelby as they respond VERY well to mild mods and it’s a blast to race.
Good luck
-J
That’s it! On my race calendar! You coming up?
-J
I think I'm lucky to live within driving distance of one of the best tuners in the business.
I think my car deserves the best, even if it's bolt-ons, & I can afford to pay for the tuners time.
You look @ cars as mass produced items, all the same, they aren't.
Take 2 cars, do the same exact mods to them, & you'll see different results.
Ever wonder why if you list your mods & run logs for Lund, VMP, or PBD, it takes several try's to get the tune right ?
There are people that don't have a choice but to use the large tuner warehouse tunes, I do & I did.
Another thing to consider, a mail order tune will be safer, as the tuner has no 1st hand information about the car..
Not sure. I want to. It's close to my race and normally I don't like doing personal car stuff leading up to my event. I get too fixated on my own stuff and forget things about the event. If I'm on schedule for my event, then I'll probably go.
Who is one of the best tuners in the business?
THIS.
and the custom dyno tuner shops can fix vacuum leaks in real time when the owner can't diagnose or install parts properly.
When the owner can't diagnose issues, it may require a bunch of revisions. I've had 20+ tunes from Lund since 2013 and never had a revision. Tune spot on, especially with bolt oms. Just a bunch of datalogs from idle, cruise and WOT. 1200whp, idles at 900rpm, no bucking or surging with a single 163mm TB. For those case when you don't live next door from one of the best tuners in the world, of course.
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Agree here. If your competent but local guy does 2-3 S197 Shelby’s per year, I’d actually say you’d be better off doing a remote session with Lund at the local shop over the local guys custom tune.
If you have a local guy that’s great and you’re lucky, but it’s also nice we have the ability to have quality’canned’ tuning.
-J
I'm happy with there built engine
Who tunes your car? Lol
Lund racing, I did consider Jim Sr from JDM, but I've been with Lund racing for a long time and I enjoy working with my calibrator Dakota.
I almost did lol
Fastback14
New Member
Well thank you for everyone’s responses on this!
From what I got out of this is, if you want to be “safe” but still want to mod our 13-14s (granted you have a good tuner) full exhaust, intake and tb, appear to be the “safest” route to go.
Note: I apologize for any grammar errors, hate posting on my phone.
From what I got out of this is, if you want to be “safe” but still want to mod our 13-14s (granted you have a good tuner) full exhaust, intake and tb, appear to be the “safest” route to go.
Note: I apologize for any grammar errors, hate posting on my phone.
Don't forget the Gears! 3.73 or 4.10s. I run 3.73s and love it. It was the best Mod for me plus suspension/tire upgrades.
You can also add a smaller pulley to get 3-4 more psi/boost and still be safe.
So, rather than create a new thread I thought I'd piggyback on this one, which is a great thread BTW.
Say I want to upgrade my rods because I know they're the supposed weak point of the Trinity, what is involved in doing that and do I/should I also upgrade the pistons?
Is this something I could go to my tuner, Lidio, and ask him to upgrade my rods and pistons?
This thread has been great to learn that I'm pretty safe going up to 700whp, but I am interested in how beneficial it would be to upgrade the rods and pistons.
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