2014 GT - Armageddon Twin Turbo Install

wakebum2507

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How much more power is to be gained from the cutout? I just got mine in, and it's...rowdy.

Curious what I gained over running it out the back through my S-type quads.
 

UnleashedBeast

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How much more power is to be gained from the cutout? I just got mine in, and it's...rowdy.

Curious what I gained over running it out the back through my S-type quads.

My setup and boost level (8 PSI), Dave @ Armageddon says about 20 hp over a great flowing exhaust. More is you have smaller piping and restrictive mufflers. Mine are stupid loud. It's like driving a race car with open headers.
 

wakebum2507

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Which mufflers are you running? I'm not sure if my s-types are a chambered or a straight through with extra filler in there. It's still stupid loud when it's in booat through the mufflers.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Have poly engine mounts for sale, brand new. Click Here

Which mufflers are you running? I'm not sure if my s-types are a chambered or a straight through with extra filler in there. It's still stupid loud when it's in booat through the mufflers.

The entire exhaust system is as follows.

Lethal 3" Catless H pipe, with QTP oval exhaust cutouts
Lethal 2.75" over axle pipes (no resonators)
Kooks axlebacks

Formerly, I had Magnaflow Street axlebacks, but they were too quiet after the turbos were installed. You can see the size difference here. Theory could be made Kooks should flow more, since they are more "straight through". The Magnaflows have to turn inside twice.

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I painted the face seen from the rear of the car since I don't like seeing shining things when headlights hit the back of the car. I know, can't be seen by me, but I'm anal.

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UnleashedBeast

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Oh boy, it's transmission rebuild time. I have found the limitations of my factory 6R80.

Here is the carnage of my transmission. Guess the 180 mph races with the supercharged/nitrous Corvette wasn't a good idea on stock clutches after all.

Broken intermediate shaft. Sheared off so smooth, you'd swear it was supposed to be apart.

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"E clutch" or the small overdrive clutch pack is burnt so bad, worn to the steels. Some of the clutches are bent inwards. Yikes!

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I have it all apart. Most of the larger clutch packs are fine. Only one other pack showed some hot spotting and clutches worn in well. The rest were like new.

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Clutch residue in the valve body. It's important to clean this out before reassembly or it could block passages, create problems with valves, or the solenoids.

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Will give an update when the parts arrive and reassembly happens.
 
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Blazer707@TBR

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I think he said he was roll racing to 180mph.

Troy just make sure you clean out that valve body VERY good, sometimes we even replace them at work when they are alot of clutch material in them.
 

466roller

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So 5th gear @ rougly 6000 rpm?? Converter locked? We definitely need more details on this. Sorry to hear but it looks like it'll be up and running before too long. Did you have any plans to attend Bradenton next weekend?
 

UnleashedBeast

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I think he said he was roll racing to 180mph.

Troy just make sure you clean out that valve body VERY good, sometimes we even replace them at work when they are alot of clutch material in them.

The fluid was dark with clutch residue. Using rubber and plastic safe electronic cleaner, I was able to restore the valve body to like new condition. Solenoids seem to still be "clicking" and I sprayed them all out as well.

Still a mystery how I killed the shaft though.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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So 5th gear @ rougly 6000 rpm?? Converter locked? We definitely need more details on this. Sorry to hear but it looks like it'll be up and running before too long. Did you have any plans to attend Bradenton next weekend?


The car was in 5th gear, didn't let off till 180 mph. Ran it like that twice. It cooked the overdrive clutch pack. Oh well, it was fun, and had planned to upgrade the clutches and shaft anyway. Converter was definitely locked.
 
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onefastmf

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The car was in 5th gear, didn't let off till 180 mph. Ran it like that twice. It cooked the overdrive clutch pack. Oh well, it was fun, and had planned to upgrade the clutches and shaft anyway. Converter was definitely locked.



Ya I thought locking up after 4th. @ wot Was a big no no. I guess I see why, that sucks
 

gimmie11s

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LOL going hard for sure. Congrats on showing what has proved to be a tough trans who's boss!

Looks like you'll have her up and running before too long.
 

UnleashedBeast

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Here is a video of both races that killed "E" clutch. Take note, in the second race, watch how much ground my car loses on the shift. Transmission was starting to give up.

Link

LOL going hard for sure. Congrats on showing what has proved to be a tough trans who's boss!

Looks like you'll have her up and running before too long.

No doubt, the transmission is a beast with upgraded clutches and intermediate shaft. The rest of the parts looks brand new inside. No damage at all and no spline twisting.
 
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Scott8583

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I didn't think we are supposed to apply that much power to 5th or 6th gear?? I was told they are just there for OD's.

My tuner has my mine set up so it won't shift out of 4th at WOT....
 
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UnleashedBeast

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That sucks it broke :(
Couple questions though, Why turbo vs supercharger? and why the Boss instead of the Cobrajet?

Still looks like an awesome install!

My experience with both kits, a supercharger runs out of steam on the top end. Turbos don't if properly sized for the application.

Superchargers are easier to install, in most cases, especially a PD blower. Turbos are much more involved. You can also increase power on a turbo kit easier than a supercharger. There is no pulley to swap, you either increase spring weight in the wastegate(s), or use a boost controller if it's previously installed. I can also expand my power range from stock engine 600-700 hp to built engine 1100 hp range with nothing more than forging the internals and using either of the aforementioned methods to increase boost. With a supercharger, you are having to sell what you bought and go larger. For instance, you are selling that nice generation 2 VMP 2.3L TVS and buying a Kenne Bell monster. Me spending the money the first time insures I don't have to do that.

The Armageddon kit and tuning is optimizing for the Boss intake, since it was designed for the Boss 302 originally. To run this kit on the GT, you have to change to the Boss intake. There is no charge piping for the Armageddon kit that will work with the stock GT intake manifold. No plans to release one either. The Cobra Jet manifold is too expensive to justify, as I doubt power gains would justify cost. I bet there would be none honestly. The smaller stock single blade TB and Boss manifold has supported 1400 rwhp on the 5.0 engine. More power is free, just increase boost. One could debate the CJ manifold with larger TB could create the same power, using less boost, due to less restriction. However, I haven't seen anything tested or compared in real world side by side turbo applications yet. That remains to be seen.
 
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ticopowell

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My experience with both kits, a supercharger runs out of steam on the top end. Turbos don't if properly sized for the application.

Superchargers are easier to install, in most cases, especially a PD blower. Turbos are much more involved. You can also increase power on a turbo kit easier than a supercharger. There is no pulley to swap, you either increase spring weight in the wastegate(s), or use a boost controller if it's previously installed. I can also expand my power range from stock engine 600-700 hp to built engine 1100 hp range with nothing more than forging the internals and using either of the aforementioned methods to increase boost. With a supercharger, you are having to sell what you bought and go larger. For instance, you are selling that nice generation 2 VMP 2.3L TVS and buying a Kenne Bell monster. Me spending the money the first time insures I don't have to do that.

The Armageddon kit and tuning is optimizing for the Boss intake, since it was designed for the Boss 302 originally. To run this kit on the GT, you have to change to the Boss intake. There is no charge piping for the Armageddon kit that will work with the stock GT intake manifold. No plans to release one either. The Cobra Jet manifold is too expensive to justify, as I doubt power gains would justify cost. I bet there would be none honestly. The smaller stock single blade TB and Boss manifold has supported 1400 rwhp on the 5.0 engine. More power is free, just increase boost. One could debate the CJ manifold with larger TB could create the same power, using less boost, due to less restriction. However, I haven't seen anything tested or compared in real world side by side turbo applications yet. That remains to be seen.

Exactly what I wanted to know, as always you are top notch at explaining things, Thanks!
 

UnleashedBeast

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Transmission rebuild is almost complete and I've learned a lot about the 6R80 auto in this car. There are two tools you NEED to finish this job that you may not have at home.

1. Dial Indicator with magnetic base stand to measure clutch pack clearances
2. Digital Caliper to measure clutch steel thickness

In the Exedy stage two kit, there are different thickness steels for different clutch packs. Two of them are very close in size so you need the Digital Caliper to make sure your eyes are not playing tricks on you.

"C" clutch has an optional "thicker" steel you can use to tighten up clearances. I didn't use it, as it made the clutch pack too tight. You need the Dial indicator and base to verify that. Wish I would have taken pictures, however I will borrow these as examples.

Dial indicator used to verify proper clutch pack clearances

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Digital Caliper

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Other tips I can give to those who are interested in performing this upgrade yourself.

  • Take pictures, you never know when you will forget how something was installed.
  • Do not remove old clutch packs until you are ready to install the new pack. You don't want to get them mixed up, causing confusion later.
  • Removing the "C" clutch retainer clamp from the case is a bitch, be patient and don't break it. It goes in easier than it comes out.
  • Go slow, take your time, absorb what you are doing into memory. If you rush it, you may find yourself doubting what you just did, removing the part(s), and starting over again.
  • Do not attempt this job without a working Dial Indicator and Digital Caliper. You will never know if clearances are within range without them.
 
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