2013 5.0 clutch questions

DD2013 5.0

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I'm sure this has been brought up on several different occasions? I don't have time to scroll through 500+ pages of posts
I have a 2013 5.0 with about 13k miles on it. I purchased it new in December of 2012.the car is daily driven with 1 attempt at the track. I only made a few passes because of locking out of 3rd. I have a few motor mods (cai, tune, cat deletes) plus some suspension work. I recently installed a JHR clutch line, dot 4, removed the assist sping, and installed a MGW shifter.
Wile these are drastic improvements over stock I still have issues. One being the irregular ingagement of the clutch and now some strange noises coming from the clutch when the clutch is depressed and the car is running. I'm willing to bet the clutch or some part of it is done for?? The trans seems to be ok from what I can tell?
My question is.. Is it worth it to do a clutch swap and if so what is the best set up? Like I stated above the car is street driven with the occasional track/strip runs. I'm making rite at 400whp and 383tq. I don't see me going over 450-500 any time soon. If something is broke my dealer will fix it under warranty but I don't want them installing the same JUNK parts that are already in it and failing!
The noise could just be NVH? Not sure really? But I do know its agrivating when trying to have fun with the car and it won't shift. What are everyone's thoughts or experiences with clutch swaps on these cars?
 

DD2013 5.0

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What clutch/fly wheel set up is good for these 2011+ cars? I'd like a McLeod but don't have that kind of $$ rite now. I've been looking at the spec 2+ and the exedy Mach 500. Both with steel fly wheels. If I go with one of those 2 can I re use my stock hydraulic throw out bearing ass'y? Or will in need to replace that as well with an aftermarket pcs?
 

Tyler72

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The McCleod is probably the best, but its also a lot of money. Spec is ok. I personally don't have much experience with spec. Have a ton with McCleod, & really like them.

As for the slave cylinder, most clutch kits allow you to keep the stock one, but some require you to put a spacer behind it (it would be included with the kit). I think I remember reading that the exedy requires a special slave cylinder to work properly.
 

DD2013 5.0

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I believe exedy's throw out/slave is adjustable? Not to sure I'd be comfortable with that? Will the stock slave/throw out bearing be ok with say a spec 2+ clutch? I'm trying to gather as much info I can so I can get this job done 1 time and done rite the first time.
 

blackbeast12

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Im using the stock throw out bearing with a spec 2+ clutch and Jpc line upgrade. my advise get the exedy throw out bearing, the stock throw out bearing is manageable but was never engineered to push the stronger fingers of aftermarket clutches. The clutch itself is awesome working perfect every time. I have no issues at all , also recommend getting rid of your stock hydro motor mounts and get something stiffer it really helps with the lock out issue you are having!
 

DD2013 5.0

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Im using the stock throw out bearing with a spec 2+ clutch and Jpc line upgrade. my advise get the exedy throw out bearing, the stock throw out bearing is manageable but was never engineered to push the stronger fingers of aftermarket clutches. The clutch itself is awesome working perfect every time. I have no issues at all , also recommend getting rid of your stock hydro motor mounts and get something stiffer it really helps with the lock out issue you are having!

I see in your sig your running an aluminum fly wheel. I will be steet driving this car with some occasional drag racing. Will the aluminum fly whhel be ok? Or should I go steel? Also isn't the exedy throw out bearing adjustable? How would this be set up? I don't want to smoke a new clutch because of improper adjustment. I also don't want to have to pull the trans in and out a bunch of time to adjust the throw out bearing. If that's even needed? I've never worked on a hydraulic set up. No quadrants.
Thanks for the info
 

beefcake

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we have a special on the exedy mach 600 / stage 2 / stage 4, depending on what your looking at

technically it's exedy's stage 2

we do a combo with the billet steel flywheel and clutch

you get the benefit of a lighter flywheel, but still still very strong
beef
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blackbeast12

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I see in your sig your running an aluminum fly wheel. I will be steet driving this car with some occasional drag racing. Will the aluminum fly whhel be ok? Or should I go steel? Also isn't the exedy throw out bearing adjustable? How would this be set up? I don't want to smoke a new clutch because of improper adjustment. I also don't want to have to pull the trans in and out a bunch of time to adjust the throw out bearing. If that's even needed? I've never worked on a hydraulic set up. No quadrants.
Thanks for the info

Aluminum flywheel is the flywheel of choice, its lighter so less rotating mass. If you get the spec2+ get the spec 8 bolt aluminum flywheel. Don't know about the exedy throw out adjustment but if there is one I'm sure the instructions will help you get it right the 1st time!
 

beefcake

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yes, but alum can drop between shifts a lot too, that's why I like the billet steel, very happy medium. stronger, and lighter
 

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Thanks for the info guys! Much appreciated.
Anyone on here running the adj throw out bearing from exedy?

Exedy uses the OEM slave. It is also the only one we recommend too.

We have had great results with Exedy and Spec with the coyotes. Exedy rates all their clutches by trq as well. We usually use the Mach 600 on the coyotes (will handle up to 600ft lbs) With Spec, the Stage 2 or 3+ will work fine.

(always in stock and always awesome deals on both)
 
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