I think my first course of action is going to be a MGW Shifter and assist spring removal followed by am aluminum driveshaft.
2011 5.0L Clutch Pedal Issue Fix
- Thread starter black03
- Start date
I think my first course of action is going to be a MGW Shifter and assist spring removal followed by am aluminum driveshaft.
Had mine stick today.
I was datalogging and just did a 3rd gear pull to redline. Just pushed in the clutch to put it in neutral and it stuck to the floor.
Guess I will take the spring out to see if it fixes my issue.
I was datalogging and just did a 3rd gear pull to redline. Just pushed in the clutch to put it in neutral and it stuck to the floor.
Guess I will take the spring out to see if it fixes my issue.
I have experienced the sticking pedal and miss shifts FOREVER now. I bought the car in July 2012 and its a 2013 GT. Car locks me out non stop especially third and fifth. I did spring removal and it did absoloutely nothing but make the clutch pedal feel broken. I did a clutch line and dot 4 and that did nothing. Clutch still sticks same as before and out of 5 runs it locks me out 2 to 3 times. One thing I noticed is I won't get locked out IF I don't hold the clutch down at the line. For example burnout, roll to the line, give the car at least 30 sec with the clutch up,then trip the line and go. The longer of a break the car gets the better it shifts. I also added a whiteline trans insert which did not help yet the noise/vibration is significant. I really think it's the pressure plate as mentioned before. To those who have this issue I would skip my steps and go for an aftermarket pp first.
I shift at 6800 RPMs and had the problem occur. Funny thing was I drove car for 2 years without it ever being a issue. This year I was at local track talking to another Mustang owner when they asked me if I had encountered the problem. I said no and it happened the very next pass.
I've only put about 350 miles on my car since I bought it (currently at 5300 miles) and with about 4 trips to redline it hasn't shown any odd behavior.
Either way I think my plan is going to include a clutch line and some different fluid, possible the GT500 pedal assembly, and a different clutch. If the tranny takes a shit after that I'm just going to swap in the tremec. Hopefully that comes later than sooner.
Either way I think my plan is going to include a clutch line and some different fluid, possible the GT500 pedal assembly, and a different clutch. If the tranny takes a shit after that I'm just going to swap in the tremec. Hopefully that comes later than sooner.
I removed my assist spring today in my 13 5.0.It was a pain in the ass.But it was worth it.The clutch pedal is a little firmer now.But I went through the gears a little while ago and it did not miss a beat.I love it.Thanks for the information.Yall rock.
I also have the Whiteline transmission bushing combined with the Barton shifter mount.That helped with the shifts but I feel vibrations I didn't have before.Im ok with it since I have no more missed shifts at high rpms.
I also have the Whiteline transmission bushing combined with the Barton shifter mount.That helped with the shifts but I feel vibrations I didn't have before.Im ok with it since I have no more missed shifts at high rpms.
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Try this test. Warm up the car. Put it in neutral. Put your foot on the clutch, push it down a quarter of the way, then rev the engine up the scale. If you feel a back-pressure on the clutch pedal as the rpm's climb, you are probably going to have shifting issues. It is the pressure plate causing the problem. I suspect the pressure plate is flexing from centrifugal force, and pushing the fluid out of the throwout bearing. You push on the clutch and the pedal drops to the floor because the fluid has been pushed into the brake reservoir and the helper spring has nothing to resist against. I have a Boss 302 that will not speed shift at high rpm and also has had the clutch pedal hit the floor after several hard launches heated up the drive-train.
Caveat: I have an manual 06 Mustang GT that does not exhibit any of these phenomena.
Caveat: I have an manual 06 Mustang GT that does not exhibit any of these phenomena.
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I like this mod.
I lost the little clip on the left side anyone know where i can get another one or what it's called?
I lost the little clip on the left side anyone know where i can get another one or what it's called?
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Noellenchris
New Member
Has anyone tried to compress the spring and put some heat on it to soften up the spring and put it back in? I was thinking I might give it a shot when I get some time.
Chris
Chris
I installed an Exedy clutch and pressure plate last weekend. Problem solved. This is after trying all the band aids. Any other fix is a band aid. The pressure plate from Ford has a design flaw. I believe it is some sort of a geometry problem that causes a deflection of the pressure plate. When the engine revs, the pressure plate pushes back on the throwout bearing. The fluid is forced back into the reservoir. This is when the pedal hits the floor. The assist spring has no pressure against it during this time and it pushes the pedal to the floor. It is happening all the time, even when the pedal is not on the floor. The car can't shift because the disc is engaged. Ford is wasting a lot of money on transmissions because of a pressure plate flaw. See my post above where you can feel back-pressure on the clutch pedal when the engine is revved. If you feel this you have a defective pressure plate, period.
YES!!! Exact same thing is happening to my car and its soooo F-ing annoyng!! You can even feel it in the pedal if you rev the car in neutral. I'm about to purchase an exedy clutch at the end of the week. What staged did you do? stock fly wheel or exedy flywheel? exedy TOB or oem replacement? you upgrade your line too?
Removed spring on mine and helped a little...I know it isn't permanently fixed because after some driving even if I have clutch pressed in to the floor if I shift into 1st with clutch on floor the car will move forward a little....Obviously PP sticking or something still not fully disengaged...I think clutch, flywheel and PP will be my next mods.
Yea I took my spring out and I couldn't even get my car completely in gear. And it would grind 5th and 6th.
I have the high volume line, put it on first and no change. I went with the Mach 700 stage 4. It is very grippy, if you use your car as a daily driver it may be too much, I would drop a level or 2 from there for a street car. I used an Exedy billet steel flywheel, it is about 4-5 pounds lighter than the BOSS flywheel. I left the stock TOB in even though the kit came with a new one....which is the exact same as the stock one. I can tell you the car shifts fantastic now. I wish I would have done it the first day I brought the car home.
Yea I was leaning towards the Mach 600 stage 3 since a supercharger isn't out of the picture yet. I'll probably keep the stock flywheel and get a replacement TOB. Did it get rid of the extreme difficulty getting the car into 2nd and 3rd when you get on it?
And I do have the upgraded line sitting at home that I plan on installing when I do the clutch. You switch to dot 4 fluid or no?
And I do have the upgraded line sitting at home that I plan on installing when I do the clutch. You switch to dot 4 fluid or no?
Did not change fluid type, the brakes and the clutch share the reservoir. The TOB is EXACTLY the same, Exedy must supply Ford. The billet wheel uses half the amount of bolts for the pressure plate but does have 3 dowel pins to handle shear loads. It will shift right if you haven't hurt the syncros from trying to jam gears with the faulty pressure plate.
btw, did the locking needle nose plier thing I saw on youtube, 2 minute fix. Pedal feel is heavier, but nothing to be worried about. I do feel a little loose at full extension (all the way out) but not unnerving. Did a few 7000+ pulls, and no sticking. Time will tell!
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