2011 5.0L Clutch Pedal Issue Fix

[12CandyredGT]

I tried spring removal first. Worked for normal driving and occasional wot on the highway with regular tires. With drag radials, no such luck. Spoke with ford, the service writer actually gave me JPC racing's number and advised I change to the SS clutch line. Changed that the following day, but while I was at JPC (local shop for me), I asked if this was a fix and the response I got was basically NO! Asked what the problem is, Figuring since they specialize in mustang performance, they said chances are I have a bad pressure plate. I have noticed the more problems I have with the sticky clutch, the harder the pedal feels while normally driving. So it looks like a clutch will be on order for me. Just thought I would add to the conversation.

 

[ghig50]

For some people the removal of the Clutch Spring seems to help, helped with mine.
Noticed that if the traction control is active there are issues with High RPM shifting.Seems odd that this would effect the shifting but it seems to at least on mine.

I have read the different ways of removing the spring here is the way I removed mine did not take long at all.


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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-i3LBQLbG1U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[shark tales]

holy hell did this help me!

i thought i was going crazy when i described this to my mechanic friends

 

[MCBigDog]

After reading this entire thread and just thinking out loud, has anyone thought of adding pedal return assistance? My initial thought was a "screen door" type spring attached to the pedal and hooked somewhere under the dash. Sure it may increase pedal pressure a little, but maybe it helps. Just a thought, what do you think?

 

[200MPHCOBRA]

You have to visualize what is happening. All the fluid is being forced out of the throwout bearing by the pressure plate deforming at high revs, and the fluid is forced back into the resivoir. You step on the pedal, since nothing is there, the helper spring sticks the pedal to the floor. Trans is still in gear when you try to shift. Syncros go to shit after a few hard shifts. Its a bad pressure plate, Ford knows it, and it will never work right until you change it. I did every bandaid till I finally saw it puke out fluid fom a slightly over filled resivoir and I figured it out. Changed to Exedy at 1500 miles on the clock and now it speed shifts at 8000 rpm like butter. Even the lucky ones that are shifting, are probaly dragging and not completly disengaged when they shift. I believe this is the main reason these transmissions have the reputation they are stuck with. I can tell you mine is perfect after the change of clutch and p plate, and I have been banging gears for 35 years on every manual trans Ford made since 1965, and with the change, this is the best one yet.

 

[MCBigDog]

I don't doubt your analysis, makes perfect sense. What Stage Exedy did you choose? I've been away from the performance game for awhile but I'm dismayed by "performance" clutches with diaphragm springs. They were OEM at best. I don't understand the move away from the 3-finger design which is optimal in my opinion. The faster you spun it, the more clamping force it generated via the centrifugal weights on the fingers. This gave the best of both worlds, low pedal pressure at rest or low rpm, greater clamping force when the engine was making the most power. Like you, I'm tired of chasing this around. It is the single thing that keeps me from enjoying a great car. A new clutch it is.

 

[200MPHCOBRA]

I went with the Mach 700, its a little much for the street, pulling off slowly from a dead stop you can get a little chatter. I should have gone two down to the Mach 500 since it has a fiber disc, the 700 and 600 is metalic. It works great at the drags, I'm sure the 500 will be fine too. You don't need a throwout bearing, as it is, the Exedy looks identical to the Ford unit.

 

[Outlaw14GT]

Curious if anyone has had this issue at the track, Not the sticking in 3rd or 2nd but when Launching the car, I'm on a 275/60 and I will usually try to ride stock clutch as much as possible to save driveshaft/rear end etc... but sometimes when I try to go a little harder the clutch wants to stick about halfway and wont let the car rev out, makes it bog and then go after I pull it up. Just curious if anyone has encountered this issue. Im doing a driveshaft and clutch line right now but I still have factory spring in clutch pedal. Thanks for help!

 

[Crazy jok3r]

What is the part number?

 

[mike884]

Hi all, sorry to bring an old thread back... but do you any of you who removed the pedal spring, upper and lower perches, and the pin happen to have one sitting around? Would be interested in purchasing. Thanks!

 

[fulanititoo8198]

Hi all, sorry to bring an old thread back... but do you any of you who removed the pedal spring, upper and lower perches, and the pin happen to have one sitting around? Would be interested in purchasing. Thanks!

I have the assembly message me your number I'll send you a picture.