2011-2014 Mustang GT Cooling Head Mod by MMR, eliminate the #8 cylinder failure today

Modular Racing

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Very cool. Is there any concern with air being trapped at the top of the arc of the crossover?

No, this kit sits lower than the upper radiator hose (meaning its below the water level), upon first start-up the water pump flow will fill and balance the head flow. Our initial tests had a clear hose to test this on the engine dyno, the engine was fired up and the tube was filled instantly. :beer:
 

Scuba-Matt

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There isn't much material in a freeze plug. When you say tap it out, do you mean remove it? or use a tap on it to thread it?
Any pictures of the process?
 
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slagburn

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To take a freeze plug out, drive it in until it can pivot in the hole. Then grab a lip with pliers and carefully lever it out.
 

Scuba-Matt

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To take a freeze plug out, drive it in until it can pivot in the hole. Then grab a lip with pliers and carefully lever it out.

Yes I have removed many freeze plugs. The description of the install is a bit vague. When I tell someone they have to tap out something. I'm referring to using a tap to cut threads.
I do believe the vendor means remove the freeze plug. This product looks promising.
 
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96svtdriver

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Can't wait to see the How-To on this install. We maybe should arrange a group buy?

I would really like to get this in my car, but the cost is kind of out of my price range right now.:bored:
 

beef97

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and no leaks at all from the hose? I noticed it had no type of clamp or anything. How much coolant leaks out when the freeze plugs are removed? Super interested to see some data if there is any on the cooling effects. Why does everyone talk about the #8 cylinder all the time? Isn't the #4 cylinder on the opposite side of the #8? If 8 got really hot wouldn't 4 as well? Thanks for the info!
 

Modular Racing

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and no leaks at all from the hose? I noticed it had no type of clamp or anything. How much coolant leaks out when the freeze plugs are removed? Super interested to see some data if there is any on the cooling effects. Why does everyone talk about the #8 cylinder all the time? Isn't the #4 cylinder on the opposite side of the #8? If 8 got really hot wouldn't 4 as well? Thanks for the info!

Correct, no leaks from the hose, this hose is rated to 100+psi and uses a push lock NHRA approved design - same as used for fuel injection hose. If the block drain plugs is pulled no water will leak out, if the radiator is drained it is minimal to none.

As far as # 4 vs # 8 the castings are slightly different, ford also mounted the temp sensor directly on #4 so the ECU has a better idea of actual temps.
 

beef97

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awesome I appreciate the response! Have ya'll taken any temp readings and found that this mod actually does reduce the #8 temps?
 

Modular Racing

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Yes, we have seen up to 8 degrees, more importantly the temps are balanced and the ECU is now indirectly sampling the temperature of both heads now with this design because the temp sensor is located on the cyl # 4 which is directly next to the MMR water fitting coming from the other bank (sensor can be see in the pic below) just below and to the left of the MMR water adapter. This allows the ECU to adjust timing and fuel table to more accurately reflect both banks rather than just the passenger bank (1-4)

2011CM.jpg
 
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cidsamuth

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For those considering having the engine out of the car or a clutch job done this is a no brainer, the install in this case is takes just a few minutes and this is cheap insurance to protect your engine (new or old)

MMR

I can understand how installation would be difficult, but not impossible, with the engine in. But, for the layman, are you saying it would be easy during a clutch replacement but with the engine still in the vehicle?
 

lukem80

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if I install this on my engine and blow up my number 8 cyl will you replace my engine with one of those baller 1000hp ones?!
 

Modular Racing

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I can understand how installation would be difficult, but not impossible, with the engine in. But, for the layman, are you saying it would be easy during a clutch replacement but with the engine still in the vehicle?

It is a breeze with a clutch replacement :beer:
 

beef97

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but without doing a clutch job or having the tranny out, how hard is it to get back there? I can't imagine there's much room to play with. I wouldn't mind removing the intake for it but if the tranny has to be removed thats gonna be a bit much for a simple cooling mod. Still interested though and would anyone do a group buy on it?
 

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