2005 5.4 3V missing at WOT

[mustangc]

I have a 2005 5.4 3V that has a horrible miss at WOT. When driving around normally the truck behaves just fine, but when I floor it to pass traffic the engine pulls, then stumbles, then pulls a little, then stumbles some more. The check engine light flashes and the vehicle goes into "limp home" mode for about 20 seconds.

If I let out of the thottle, everything smoothes out. The most annoying thing is that the engine doesn't store a trouble code! I haven't been able to find a TSB for this, so I'm going to try and replace the spark plugs and fuel filter to see if that helps.

Has anyone experienced this? It is really scary because the truck is somewhat unsafe to drive when you can't depend on the power to be there when you need it.

 

[meaty mac]

I'm going to try and replace the spark plugs and fuel filter to see if that helps.

That would be a good start. It does sound like a spark issue. Maybe C.O.P's ?

 

[mustangc]

I tried to remove my stock plugs today. I knew about the TSB for broken spark plugs, and took all of the precautions listed in the TSB, but the first plug I attempted to remove (cylinder No. 5) still broke in half. Now I have the ground strap and part of the ceramic stuck in the head.:xpl:

Now I have to order the extraction tool to remove the broken plug. I hope the tool works as advertised. It'll probably be late next week before it arrives in mail, so I'll update everyone when I get a chance to use it.

 

[Grant Theft Auto]

^ dude that sucks, hopefully after you get it out the problem will go away. for the hit or miss problem it may even be the fuel injecters wiring harness, i had a similar thing happen to my truck when the wiring harness went out, now my truck is in the shop getting all new hoses "heater hose blew on me going to work on the highway"

 

[mustangc]

I broke 7 out of 8 spark plugs during removal. They broke in the wost possible way, too: leaving the ground strap and part of the ceramic still inside the cylinder head. I followed Ford's TSB to the letter, but it doesn't work. The TSB specifically says to remove the plugs on a cold engine to minimize the chance of thread damage, but I would think it would have been better to remove the plugs from a warm engine. The aluminum in the head expands faster than the stainless or ceramic in the plug, therefore loosening its grip on the plug. Some heat might have also softened the carbon deposits a little. I think Ford's TSB gave me some bad advice.

Now I have the extraction tool to remove what's left of the plugs. It uses Locktite to bond a pin to the inside of the ceramic, but there are two problems:

1) The tool only comes with 4 pins! They cannot be reused. I need at least seven, and I would have thought the kit would have come with 8, considering all of these three valve engines are V8's. DUH!!!:idea:
2) The Loctite won't bond properly if the temperature is not at least 70 degrees. It is SNOWING outside and the temperature is in the 'teens!!! I have a heater in my garage, but my garage, like most, isn't insulated very well. Achieving and retaining 70+ degrees for 8+ hours in the beginning of January will be nearly impossible.

So NOW what do I do?:shrug:

 

[meaty mac]

I know it wont be cheap, but you might think about taking it to a dealership

 

[mustangc]

Update

This plug change has been one adventure after another. I tried the Cal-Van tool which uses Loc-tite to extract the ceramic out of the ground strap. I spent all day warming up the garage, but to no avail, it didn't work. The surface area between the pin and the inside diameter of the ceramic is just so much smaller than the surface area between the ceramic and the metal ground strap.

It's a good thing I bought the Lisle tool as a backup. The Lisle pushes the ceramic further into the cylinder to make enough clearance for the extractor to tap into the ground strap and remove it. I didn't want to use this method if I didn't have to, because I was afraid of the ceramic chipping off and falling into the cylinder. Thankfully, the Lisle tool worked like a dream.:banana:

My only concern now is whether or not the Lisle tool will last long enough to do all seven broken plugs. The self tapping threads on the extractor tool were pretty worn after only one plug. I'll try to get the other six out tomorrow. If I can get at least four out with this tool, I can order a replacement extractor screw for $20 to finish the rest.

 

[mustangc]

UPDATE: The Lisle tool removed all seven broken plugs, without chipping off any ceramic into the cylinder. I am very impressed, and I will no longer fear changing plugs on 3V heads.

As for the miss at wide-open-throttle, it appears to be gone as well! I hope I have solved the problem. I do know that the one plug I removed intact was so worn down that the gap was more than TWICE that of a new plug. Ford's coil-on-plug ignition is pretty good, but doubling the gap squares the amount of voltage required to jump the gap.

If the F-150 continues to run okay, I can go back to pondering the addition of a supercharger....:burnout:

 

[Gallows]

I'm glad to hear new plugs fixed your problem. I had the exact same problem for about ten months. No codes showed up so I replaced the fuel filter twice and the fuel pump. After the pump was replaced a code finally showed up with a misfire. Replaced the plugs and the difference was unbelievable.

 

[Tractorman]

What's the tool's part number?

 

[Grant Theft Auto]

reviving a month old thread?

 

[meaty mac]

What's the tool's part number?

You'd probably be better off just giving him a PM.

reviving a month old thread?

:nonono:
No big deal. It's not like it's a year old or something, he's just asking for a part #. This particular forum has rather slow traffic anyway.

 

[Gallows]

This particular forum has rather slow traffic anyway.

More like comatose:sleeping:

 

[mustangc]

What's the tool's part number?

Ahh, wouldn't luck have it that I checked this thread today. The part number for the Lisle tool is LIS 65600. I ordered it from Delnor tools. Here is the weblink:

Lisle Ford Broken Spark Plug Remover LIS 65600

According to Delnor, it is currently out of stock. :shrug: You can call them, or an internet search should yield another supplier. Here's a place that has it in stock for less than $60: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=LIS65600&source=froogle&kw=LIS65600

That tool is everything you need, except:
* Replacement plugs
* High temperature anti-sieze to put on the ground strap O.D. of the new plugs to prevent them from getting stuck next time.
* Oh yeah - breaking off the top of the plug creates some ceramic particles. Don't worry, they don't get into the cylinder because the bottom of the spark plug is still stuck in the hole and prevents them from falling into the cylinder. Anyway, the spark plug hole should be blown out using compressed air (or sucked out using a shop vac and a small tubing extension) before you extract the base of the plug. This prevents the debris from falling into the cylinder after the bottom half of the plug is extracted.

Let me know if you have any questions. This task intimidated me before I started. After I found the Lisle tool to help, it was super easy.

 

[Grant Theft Auto]

i know this thread has like no users lol, there is stuff from like 2 years ago still on the 1st page lol

 

[SoClean03]

Did the plugs fix the problem, cause I have the same truck exactly with the exact same problem? Did you replace the fuel filter too?

 

[mustangc]

Changing the plugs fixed the problem completely. It drives like a new truck now.

I did buy a fuel filter, but I haven't installed it yet, so that wasn't the problem at all.

The one plug that I did get out in one piece had a HUGE plug gap. The ground strap was worn so much that the plug was firing to the side of the strap rather than the tip of the strap. I don't know exactly how large the gap had grown. Regardless, that was the problem.

 

[SoClean03]

Thanks, thats what I'll do then. What did you gap the new plugs too?

 

[mustangc]

Thanks, thats what I'll do then. What did you gap the new plugs too?

The Motorcraft plugs come pregapped. The unusual ground-loop is impossible to gap at home without a special tool.

I heard from several people to stick with Motorcraft plugs. Champion makes a one piece plug that has a tradition ground electrode, but I have heard of others having driveability problems with Champions. My replacement Motorcrafts work splendid.

 

[SoClean03]

Those plugs fixed my truck too. It runs soooooo much better now.