Thanks. I'll do this and I have a new iac on the way from Rock Auto. I don't want to needlessely buy parts for this car but for $30 it removes a variable.
2003cobra#2's 3.4 Whipple Build
- Thread starter 03cobra#2
- Start date
Here is how i was told to adjust throttle
I've done the adjustment where it barely touches, but the idle duty cycle was always high. Around 50%.
Last time I adjusted my throttle I hooked up Livelink so I could watch the idle duty cycle. I adjusted the throttle with the engine running until the duty cycle showed 30%. Give it a second between turns as the engine will settle back down to commanded idle. I went a little past that point to check it and at that point the engine wouldn't settle back to commanded idle. Once I had it set to 30% I locked the throttle stop and adjusted the TPS to .97-.98vdc.
Last time I adjusted my throttle I hooked up Livelink so I could watch the idle duty cycle. I adjusted the throttle with the engine running until the duty cycle showed 30%. Give it a second between turns as the engine will settle back down to commanded idle. I went a little past that point to check it and at that point the engine wouldn't settle back to commanded idle. Once I had it set to 30% I locked the throttle stop and adjusted the TPS to .97-.98vdc.
Ok so now the project takes a bit of a frustrating turn now that I'm trying to get this thing tuned. I have a guy that did a tune for another car I have, nothing major but I felt he did a good job. I paid a tuner to give me a base / startup tune. Took about 6-7 revisions but I got a workable tune that I could start, idle, and even drive the car around the neighborhood. I figured I would stick with this tuner and have him complete the tune for my setup. I order up a wideband from him and install it. Everything good so far.
Next step is I pay him more money to continue / complete the tune. This is where things kind of hit the wall. After about 6-7 more revisions the car drives worse and starts throwing codes. The second I give it any kind of gas to accelerate (even just pulling out of my driveway) the car immediately falls on it's face and goes no where. My tuner thinks there may be something mechanically wrong with the car. At this point I am on revision 14 and don't have a derivable car and it is throwing a P0068 code. Car will start up and hold an idle, but that's about it. I go back to a earlier build (number 6 or 7) and the car is immediately drivable again, and runs 100 times better....bucks a little here and there but at lease accelerates somewhat smooth and I can drive it.This has been going on for couple weeks now. Not sure really what to do from here.
Next step is I pay him more money to continue / complete the tune. This is where things kind of hit the wall. After about 6-7 more revisions the car drives worse and starts throwing codes. The second I give it any kind of gas to accelerate (even just pulling out of my driveway) the car immediately falls on it's face and goes no where. My tuner thinks there may be something mechanically wrong with the car. At this point I am on revision 14 and don't have a derivable car and it is throwing a P0068 code. Car will start up and hold an idle, but that's about it. I go back to a earlier build (number 6 or 7) and the car is immediately drivable again, and runs 100 times better....bucks a little here and there but at lease accelerates somewhat smooth and I can drive it.This has been going on for couple weeks now. Not sure really what to do from here.
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MalcolmV8 for the win. There are other great tuners on here too that people can recommend but Malcolm is very talented and tunes your car as if it's his own. Best money I ever spent on her.
Mine had all SORTS of little issues and he picked through them all, some were mechanical that he spotted just by reading my logs.
Mine had all SORTS of little issues and he picked through them all, some were mechanical that he spotted just by reading my logs.
Go with your gut. If it doesn't feel right get out. Cut your losses and move on. You have a BUNCH money in this car, don't let a few hundred $$$ ruin it. Shit happens and some guys get in over their head.
Personally I've used 04sleeper, Kevin dunn, for my remote tunes. I'm 3 combos in right now and they have all been on point minus the one time I had a mechanical issue. I resolved it and now the car is a monster and drives perfect.
Personally I've used 04sleeper, Kevin dunn, for my remote tunes. I'm 3 combos in right now and they have all been on point minus the one time I had a mechanical issue. I resolved it and now the car is a monster and drives perfect.
Anything is possible. I triple checked everything during the degreeing process to make sure I was good on all 4 cams. I have them degreed to comps specs, and am pulling good vacuum at idle. Probably make the decision in the next couple days on what to do.
I did see those posts as I was doing my build. Whipple started including a low pressure boost bypass on their kits a few years ago. First thing I did when I first fired up the car was make sure the bypass was opening at idle. Even at a 750 rpm idle it locks open with no fluttering.
I think the problem may be the wrong injector data may have been used. FIC has data for Ford SCT, and data for 39psi base pressure return system. I have a revised tune waiting for me when I get home. Hopefully that is it.
So the guy I was using for remote tuning is not the answer. He's done tuning for a long time but he just couldn't get the car to run right. I think this combo takes a lot of time, detail and patience to tune correctly. Especially with the jlt integrated maf, FIC1000 injectors, cams, and E85. Since I have a dyno at my disposal and the wideband installed, I ordered SCT pro racer package through Don Lasorta and I'm going to tune it myself starting Monday. I have the wideband hooked into my XCAL 4 and can datalog everything through livelink.
I've done a lot of reading and studying, ordered Don's book and I think self tuning is definetly within my capability. If not off to a dyno shop it goes.
I'm going to start a new thread on my tuning progress over on the engine / tuning forum.
I've done a lot of reading and studying, ordered Don's book and I think self tuning is definetly within my capability. If not off to a dyno shop it goes.
I'm going to start a new thread on my tuning progress over on the engine / tuning forum.
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Good for you brother. Above my pay grade. Hopefully you get it sorted out.
Damn that sucks, what a nightmare. Too late to reinstall the factory cams? Sure would make the entry into self tuning a million times easier. Can't imagine having a 4V cam'd/E85 project as a first self tune experience.
Don't think I need to tear the engine down lol. So many people get weirded out by cams. Back in 2001 I put comp cam stage 3 cams in my 01 GT. No one was really doing that on modulars back then. Other then a chop at idle it drove smooth as butter. So I know this combo with these cams can be dialed in to drive acceptable. Just is going to take time on my part or a GOOD tuner if I decide to go that rout.
Since I have a mustang dyno at my disposal I think it makes sense to try it myself.
Worst case scenario is I a take it to a local dyno shop for a dyno tune.
Edit: I also wanted to add that the project has not been a nightmare. With the tuner I've been dealing with he's been very attentive and gets back to me very quickly. I just think it's situation that he can't take the time and / or don't have a lot of experience with my combo.I can stick with this guy longer but I would rather learn to do it myself rather then blindly waiting for a email with a revision saying "try this". At this point I've come out of pocket a few hundred $$$ with this guy....so while I'm not looking to throw away money I decided to move on.
Since I have a mustang dyno at my disposal I think it makes sense to try it myself.
Worst case scenario is I a take it to a local dyno shop for a dyno tune.
Edit: I also wanted to add that the project has not been a nightmare. With the tuner I've been dealing with he's been very attentive and gets back to me very quickly. I just think it's situation that he can't take the time and / or don't have a lot of experience with my combo.I can stick with this guy longer but I would rather learn to do it myself rather then blindly waiting for a email with a revision saying "try this". At this point I've come out of pocket a few hundred $$$ with this guy....so while I'm not looking to throw away money I decided to move on.
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More power to you brother. I'm excited to see how it turns out. And I definitely think its doable, just takes time and knowledge.
Well, good luck with it. I think that's a hell of an accomplishment to jump in cold turkey and figure out a 4 cam tune, and on ethanol no less. Badass stuff
Just wanted to update this thread in-case someone runs across this down the road. I'm adding a Metco 2lb lower to go with the 3.5 upper the whipple comes with. Since my remote tuner didn't work out I purchased the SCT PRP software and tuning book from Don Lasota to tune the car myself & learn about tuning. I have the car running pretty darn well, and am working on fine tuning adjustments & will be finishing up WOT tuning. I have an appt June 10th to get the car on the dyno and have a reputable tuner finish up the tune and get some final numbers. Since the build is done I started a new thread on the tuning which you can find here.
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/self-tuning-with-sct-pro-racer.1185500/
I'll continue to update that thread until I'm finally finished. really appreciate the insight all of you have provided thus far and even after all these years still a great community here.
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/self-tuning-with-sct-pro-racer.1185500/
I'll continue to update that thread until I'm finally finished. really appreciate the insight all of you have provided thus far and even after all these years still a great community here.
What idler setup are u running and belt size?
Metco 90mm idlers with a 100mm snub idler. I believe belt size is aeound5a 80-81" can't remember exactly.
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